Do I sell my Wizard or take Boss to small claims court?

[stanz]

So the question is, did the WAZA reveal a fault in the xformer, or was the failure caused buy the WAZA itself? User error? I didn't read through the entire thread, so...

 

[Fordman65]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

Hey man, great that you have figured out what works well for you, and your suggestions for lower watt amps for lower volume uses is certainly a valid idea.

But saying that a load box is not designed to be used to run an amp safely for silent recording or playing and further suggesting that they are instead just for diagnostics and repair is just not correct. Safe and silent amp use is the entire point of a load box and what they were designed for. Being able to use an amp at a lower listening volumes while pushing the power amp harder is the point of an attenuator (or load box with a reamp feature like the Waza). As long as you are properly matching the wattage and ohm compatibility of the load box or attenuator with the amp, you are using it for its intended purpose. Whether any of these options are the best solution is up to the user. They are right for me and others, cool. They are not for you, cool.

Incorrect. The purpose of a load box was/is to test transformers, not getting "cool" Van Halen sounds from your amp. If you want to connect a $3000.00 amplifier to a load box, knock yourself out. Hopefully, the OP has learned his lesson.

If you're going to use a load box, use it with a clone built amp with inexpensive replacement parts.

Cool man. You got your "opinion" and it is right for you. Everybody else who has bought, used, or manufactured a load box has theirs and it is right for them. You obviously don't care for them yourself. Cool with me. But chill out on the denial about what these products are actually being manufactured and used for.

I'll let the first result in a google search for "what is the purpose of a guitar amp load box" decide this one for us. If you have problems with this broadly accepted notion, feel free to complain to Sweetwater lol.

I still say using a resistive load to simulate the dynamic action of a speaker isn't good, but whatever. Didn't mean to ruffle anyone's feathers. Rock-on!

I agree with you 100% on resistive loads. Needs to be Reactive or its a no go for me

 

[stanz]

I created two Kemper profiles using a Rockcrusher with a 100 watt head. The more I played through the Kemper, the more nervous I became. The sound (at lower volume) was virtually indistinguishable from the actual amp. This of course meant that the Kemper had to go.

 

[godgrinder]

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

I love my Wizard/SLO100/2203 etc but never felt any desire to tame them for low volume use. When I need to play with headphones I just use tube preamps with IR loaders. Sound good enough and are much safer.

With low/mid volume use I'd rather use amps with usable master volume sweeps than using attenuators.

 

[ErikT]

So the question is, did the WAZA reveal a fault in the xformer, or was the failure caused buy the WAZA itself? User error? I didn't read through the entire thread, so...

Here's all I know from the experience. I got the TAE and immediately hooked it up with my Wizard and 2x12 cab. Made sure everything was connected properly and powered on the TAE first then then Wizard. Played fine for a minute or two then the volume started to drop up and down and there was a crackling fizzy noise. Then I noticed that dreaded electronic burning smell. Shut everything down. The burning smell was coming from the end of my amp with the OT and the back of the TAE where you plug in from the amp's speaker out.

Called Boss and they were aware of my plight from an email I'd sent (never got back to me ever, I've always had to reach out). Decided to send the TAE back to Sweetwater to see if the unit was defective or not. Turns out it was (I didn't get an exact written reason why) and they gave me the RMA number for sending it back to Boss, when I asked. I then proceeded to contact Boss now that I knew it was a defective unit and have received deafening silence in return. Not even a sorry but no from them. Sweetwater is finally looking into it after I started blasting Boss on social media and tagging them. My rep hasn't even been able to get a response from the Boss rep who is stationed at Sweetwater.

 

[glip22]

So the question is, did the WAZA reveal a fault in the xformer, or was the failure caused buy the WAZA itself? User error? I didn't read through the entire thread, so...

Here's all I know from the experience. I got the TAE and immediately hooked it up with my Wizard and 2x12 cab. Made sure everything was connected properly and powered on the TAE first then then Wizard. Played fine for a minute or two then the volume started to drop up and down and there was a crackling fizzy noise. Then I noticed that dreaded electronic burning smell. Shut everything down. The burning smell was coming from the end of my amp with the OT and the back of the TAE where you plug in from the amp's speaker out.

Called Boss and they were aware of my plight from an email I'd sent (never got back to me ever, I've always had to reach out). Decided to send the TAE back to Sweetwater to see if the unit was defective or not. Turns out it was (I didn't get an exact written reason why) and they gave me the RMA number for sending it back to Boss, when I asked. I then proceeded to contact Boss now that I knew it was a defective unit and have received deafening silence in return. Not even a sorry but no from them. Sweetwater is finally looking into it after I started blasting Boss on social media and tagging them. My rep hasn't even been able to get a response from the Boss rep who is stationed at Sweetwater.

Did a tech look at it and tell you it was the OT? How do you know? Rick has it?

 

[narad]

So the question is, did the WAZA reveal a fault in the xformer, or was the failure caused buy the WAZA itself? User error? I didn't read through the entire thread, so...

Here's all I know from the experience. I got the TAE and immediately hooked it up with my Wizard and 2x12 cab. Made sure everything was connected properly and powered on the TAE first then then Wizard. Played fine for a minute or two then the volume started to drop up and down and there was a crackling fizzy noise. Then I noticed that dreaded electronic burning smell. Shut everything down. The burning smell was coming from the end of my amp with the OT and the back of the TAE where you plug in from the amp's speaker out.

Called Boss and they were aware of my plight from an email I'd sent (never got back to me ever, I've always had to reach out). Decided to send the TAE back to Sweetwater to see if the unit was defective or not. Turns out it was (I didn't get an exact written reason why) and they gave me the RMA number for sending it back to Boss, when I asked. I then proceeded to contact Boss now that I knew it was a defective unit and have received deafening silence in return. Not even a sorry but no from them. Sweetwater is finally looking into it after I started blasting Boss on social media and tagging them. My rep hasn't even been able to get a response from the Boss rep who is stationed at Sweetwater.

Just out of curiosity (and maybe not reproduce your error, as I similarly need the Waza to play it in a Tokyo apartment), can I ask what kind of setting did you have on the master volume? What ohm out setting were you using (on the MC)? What settings did you have on the TAE Z controls?

 

[311splawndude]

So the question is, did the WAZA reveal a fault in the xformer, or was the failure caused buy the WAZA itself? User error? I didn't read through the entire thread, so...

Here's all I know from the experience. I got the TAE and immediately hooked it up with my Wizard and 2x12 cab. Made sure everything was connected properly and powered on the TAE first then then Wizard. Played fine for a minute or two then the volume started to drop up and down and there was a crackling fizzy noise. Then I noticed that dreaded electronic burning smell. Shut everything down. The burning smell was coming from the end of my amp with the OT and the back of the TAE where you plug in from the amp's speaker out.

Called Boss and they were aware of my plight from an email I'd sent (never got back to me ever, I've always had to reach out). Decided to send the TAE back to Sweetwater to see if the unit was defective or not. Turns out it was (I didn't get an exact written reason why) and they gave me the RMA number for sending it back to Boss, when I asked. I then proceeded to contact Boss now that I knew it was a defective unit and have received deafening silence in return. Not even a sorry but no from them. Sweetwater is finally looking into it after I started blasting Boss on social media and tagging them. My rep hasn't even been able to get a response from the Boss rep who is stationed at Sweetwater.

If it was truly defective as Sweetwater claims then yes, I think Boss should be somewhat responsible for your OT. But like I said, they have a shitload of 'cautions' as I'm sure they know how to protect themselves. The Boss Rep who is stationed at Sweetwater is your key obviously. You really need to find out what exactly the Sweetwater tech found that led him/her to determine it was faulty and worthy of an RMA.

 

[stanz]

So the question is, did the WAZA reveal a fault in the xformer, or was the failure caused buy the WAZA itself? User error? I didn't read through the entire thread, so...

Here's all I know from the experience. I got the TAE and immediately hooked it up with my Wizard and 2x12 cab. Made sure everything was connected properly and powered on the TAE first then then Wizard. Played fine for a minute or two then the volume started to drop up and down and there was a crackling fizzy noise. Then I noticed that dreaded electronic burning smell. Shut everything down. The burning smell was coming from the end of my amp with the OT and the back of the TAE where you plug in from the amp's speaker out.

Called Boss and they were aware of my plight from an email I'd sent (never got back to me ever, I've always had to reach out). Decided to send the TAE back to Sweetwater to see if the unit was defective or not. Turns out it was (I didn't get an exact written reason why) and they gave me the RMA number for sending it back to Boss, when I asked. I then proceeded to contact Boss now that I knew it was a defective unit and have received deafening silence in return. Not even a sorry but no from them. Sweetwater is finally looking into it after I started blasting Boss on social media and tagging them. My rep hasn't even been able to get a response from the Boss rep who is stationed at Sweetwater.

All I can say is, you are one trusting soul. The thought of connecting any tube amplifier into a China made load-box puts a chill up my spine, literally! As I said, there are other ways to achieve your desired goal; none of which include risking the health of your hard asset portfolio, or your life.

You're never going to see a dime from BOSS, and Wizard (obviously) couldn't care less about your situation. $1500.00 to replace a transformer? Looking at their all-star-ish roster of Wizard players, I guess they figure the "little guy" can suck-it. Brings back memories of the Cornford days. Not that they give a toss... but, I won't be buying a Wizard.

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

I say toss the Waza and play a tube amp the way it's meant to be played. On top of most amps having a master volume I don't see the need to have an attenuator.

I don't agree with this, my JCM800 is a diff beast at 1 than it is at 4 onward on the master. It's also hella loud. To get the goods, you have to open it up. For that reason.. attenuate. That said, I think a load box and slaving to power amp is the better way but again, you have to be able to trust your load. Once you trust your load, then you can blow it!

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

Hey man, great that you have figured out what works well for you, and your suggestions for lower watt amps for lower volume uses is certainly a valid idea.

But saying that a load box is not designed to be used to run an amp safely for silent recording or playing and further suggesting that they are instead just for diagnostics and repair is just not correct. Safe and silent amp use is the entire point of a load box and what they were designed for. Being able to use an amp at a lower listening volumes while pushing the power amp harder is the point of an attenuator (or load box with a reamp feature like the Waza). As long as you are properly matching the wattage and ohm compatibility of the load box or attenuator with the amp, you are using it for its intended purpose. Whether any of these options are the best solution is up to the user. They are right for me and others, cool. They are not for you, cool.

Incorrect. The purpose of a load box was/is to test transformers, not getting "cool" Van Halen sounds from your amp. If you want to connect a $3000.00 amplifier to a load box, knock yourself out. Hopefully, the OP has learned his lesson.

If you're going to use a load box, use it with a clone built amp with inexpensive replacement parts.

OR use it within reason... for example, with most MV amps you don't need to turn it to 11 and heat it up..you can go to 6 and still have the amp fill out. Most of you guys are playing amps with good gain already. that should probably be more than enough. 4-6 is the sweet spot on the MV for me. Was just looking at a picture of Schenker's JCM800 2205 rig that he has been running forever. Live settings on the master were at 5. The rest is the PA. You still have to load / attenuate responsibly.

 

[311splawndude]

Once you trust your load, then you can blow it!

 

[SpiderWars]

Lots of reasons to use a load box. If you can't think of several you're either not trying or don't know wtf you're talking about.

And why $200 shipping? Does it cost that much more from Canada? That's easily double what it should cost if within lower 48.

 

[stanz]

OR use it within reason... for example, with most MV amps you don't need to turn it to 11 and heat it up..you can go to 6 and still have the amp fill out. Most of you guys are playing amps with good gain already. that should probably be more than enough. 4-6 is the sweet spot on the MV for me. Was just looking at a picture of Schenker's JCM800 2205 rig that he has been running forever. Live settings on the master were at 5. The rest is the PA. You still have to load / attenuate responsibly.

This is true. When I played through Marshall 1987 heads, I never turned the volume higher than 5-6. Anything higher than that, and the signal would begin degrade. Through a load box, stressing the amp shows itself as a fizzy carrier signal in the output. That's what mine did anyway.

If you get a properly degined/built 18 watt amp, you won't need to use your big watt amps to get great (odd/even order) gain tones at low volume. I'll look for some clips...

 

[stanz]

"Jose" modded 18 watt Marshall clone... Dime it, knock it down a few db's using a reactive load, add effects to taste. If you blow tube and/or a OT, replacements are cheap.

 

[stanz]

One of the things about _____ _____ is that they have a VERY liberal return policy. Items that get returned aren't always sold as used. I recieved two items from them that were clearly used, but were sold to me as new. They corrected the mistake, but not before my bringing it to their attention. One of the ways to spot used "new" items, is they will include other goodies, such as tuners, cords, strings, etc..., yet the price is the same as new items that don't come with any goodies. Never choose items that come with goodies, and never choose the discounted price. The Kemper that I purchased from _____ _____ was a new item. I returned it, and _____ _____ resold it as a new item. No big deal, as it was in perfect condition, but, what if I was someone who connected something improperly, thereby causing internal damage to the device? You have to think about these things.

 

[Kapo_Polenton]

"Jose" modded 18 watt Marshall clone... Dime it, knock it down a few db's using a reactive load, add effects to taste. If you blow tube and/or a OT, replacements are cheap.

Sounds bitchin. What was done to the amp? Jose master? or diode clipping?

 

[turtlefingers]

Could you just ask to Rick change the OT for the US$500, because it is very specific and so ask to another good amp tech change the other parts?
There is a Topic here where a member made a Wizard Clone, so, there is no rocket science to change the parts.

Cheers!

 

[stanz]

"Jose" modded 18 watt Marshall clone... Dime it, knock it down a few db's using a reactive load, add effects to taste. If you blow tube and/or a OT, replacements are cheap.

Sounds bitchin. What was done to the amp? Jose master? or diode clipping?

Other than a "Jose" mod, I don't know? I've played several modified 18 watters over the years, all of which sounded great. I had a GDS/Guytron 18 watt that kicked-ass! It had a series of resistors on top that operated as a load box. The reisistors needed to be refreshed from time to time, but that's it.

 

[stanz]

I may have to reconsider the WAZA TAE. I understood the TAE to be a resistive load device... I was wrong. I may have to check one out, as this clip sounds damn good! I just need to find out how to check it for proper opearation before connecting my amp to it.