That clean sounds really good. Do you think you could use the other half of the Clean/Dirty relay to switch the NFB? I've often thought that was one of the limiting factors in Clean/Dirty channel switchers that you had to pick an NFB that worked for both but it seems sometimes they need...
I probably saw it in a Dan Erlewine video but if you sand down the top of the nut properly, the unwound strings are about flush with the top of the nut and the wound strings are only half-buried in the slot. So there would be no need for a big wide V like that.
That's the way I've done it for years. But the trick (or hard part) for me is to get a perfectly true ringing note on the playing side of the nut while also not having a bunch of sympathetic ringing behind the nut. All the string energy should reflect off of each end (saddle and nut) and not...
Yes, 2x 200uF. I just remembered I dogpiled 4x 100s in there at first but it looked pretty bad.
That's why I still haven't swapped it out. It's 99% not that. But I'm at a loss.
I think it's 200 plates and 50 screens. It's typical Marshall power supply so I'm never really sure how to calculate that main node with the PT center connected the way it is. The look to be in series but I've been told not to calculate it that way. The screens are for sure in series so 50uF...
F&T makes 200's, I started with 100s in my '68 clone but it ghosted a little. Increased to two 200s and that cured it.
I think those still had the can in the corner for PI but yes the plate and screen filters are inside on another board and the dual preamp filter is on the main board.
EDIT...
Here's my SL clone with ARS 100/100s for plates and 50/50s for screens. The 100s are just a little taller. I also used a 100/100 for the PI but I only use half for the PI and the other half for the raised heater node. The voltage divider is mounted right on the cap.
For me the big ass bright cap is essential. Or no cap at all if I'm running it at low volume settings but I usually use a different amp for lower volume cleanish tones. I have my bright cap on a switch but I rarely switch it out.
I think the value of that cap shows you how Marshall intended...
My opinion is that much of it is in the transformers. I've built amps and certain amps just have it and certain ones just sound fine. And tweaking circuit components never changed it, they all usually sounded best with stock values or EVH spec if you're into that. But the ones that had it just...
I haven't A/Bd them but some claim the A&R caps sound better than the F&T. So if you're doing the filter caps that's something to consider.
Lots of stuff to digest above so I won't add much. If it's over 500V B+ you might consider lowering the bias splitters. My SL is always on a variac so I...