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There an issue with the ground wire that connects the electronics to the bridge post. Probably isnt connecting to the bridge in the hole, so have to pull the post out

Super easy to do yourself with a punch and a hammer. G10 board from aliexpress, turrets from digikey. Sit the turret inside a 10mm socket and punch it from the back

Just get Lenz to scratch build one from an 800 clone kit? Man knows what he's doing

Note you can wire the diodes up Friedman SAT style or Jose style - Jose style is more aggressive as it is directly in the signal path to the tone stack, Friedman style has the clipper separated from the tone stack by the filter. Try both

From my testing, a pair of MPSA06 have the same volume/compression/loudness as a pair of 12v zeners (or was it 6v?). However they sound different (better to me), so I would deduce they cant be clipping exactly the same as diodes do, maybe something to do with their (non)linearity around the...

What are you referring to? I cant see anything odd in the schem?

Yah i was getting off topic and talking about the other tone stack caps. If you play with the TSC, you'll notice that making the treble cap larger just lowers the high pass frequency cut off point of the treble control, which eats into (raises and shrinks) the mid-dip, and eventually just forms...

from memory these are an 800 circuit with another tube stage out front, more or less a boosted 800. Then coupled with a solid state power amp. Interesting bit of gear

The Laney GH/VC etc series have a 220n bass cap. Just makes it sound even more boxy to me Laney protube series have a switchable 22n treble cap on the 'midboost' switch, which probably just has the effect pf bypassing the tone stack

You would need another gain stage for that. The JEL or #34 circuits are good references for about as hot as you can mod a 2204 topology without going diode clipping/Jose

Yes. Completely different circuit to an 800 (i.e. not a mod), but a cool sounding and aggressive circuit

I have a mini mimiq - to use it properly you put it on the left or right after a mono to stereo splitter and set it to 100% wet. I use my delay pedal which receives a mono in and outputs left and right channels. Then the mimiq works the same as the bigger one which would otherwise do the job of...

I havent seen the synergy, but the MTS was its own design, pretty much SLO/Recto base circuit with a few component tweaks to voice it into recto territory to work best with the fixed input and power amp stages

What value are the gain pots and presence pots?

Yeah the TSL has a fender clean channel

I have an EVH gb cab alongside a Randall V30 cab, the evh cab is definitely quieter. With two separate cabs it doesnt matter, can stand where it sounds best. In the same cab wouldnt be ideal though, you would mostly hear the v30s unless maybe you put the GBs on the top of a slant cab

Meh I dunno, worked well in my green stripe and I like bright. 1n is still mild and nowhere near dark, just a slight roll off in the ice pick territory. Mine's on a pull-switch on the R2 volume, no one is forced to choose.

I have a green strip non-simil too, great amp. I recommend trying out a c30 cap to smooth out a bit of the top end on the lead channel. I put a 1n c30 cap on a switch with the R2 mod and it's excellent.

Ditto this

I'd use the solid state gain stages at the front instead of at the end. You seem to be missing a tube stage too? Use an LND150 for the first stage and tube for the rest. Also 4 gain stages + diodes is usually too much. I recommend dropping a gain stage or drop the diodes. Edit: as others have...