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There are three circuit changes for a iiC+ to a iiC++. On a III, the + mod is a cathode bypass capacitor added to V2b which is the gain boost you hear usually switching from R1 to R2. This gain boost is added to the lead channel. The ++ mod I'm not sure but it could be the addition of the other...

If you can find a Jubilee clone (ceriatone?) then it's a fairly quick process to convert the circuit to a 2210. Although it wouldnt have reverb if you care about that.

Sort of. You have the base stuff in the amp (same chassis layout, power amp, eq, transformer, power supply and wiring) but the preamp is different enough to be more than a tweak or easy rewire. And that's because of the preamp PCB. So to convert, you'll have to either find or make a iic+ preamp...

Wow that is some rare cool shit! Please post a photo of the internals!

For me, cameron aldrich - a bogner-esq circuit, diezel vh4, and vht pitbull (although I dont like it much) all have a pretty unique thing happening in the mids.

dirty tree and an eq pedal arent variable high pass - both parametric eqs with fixed center frequency. neither is the timmy - fixed low shelf frequency. The VFE pedals have a variable high pass - e.g. the standout. Precision drive sorta does - variable in steps and is otherwise a tube screamer.

It wont work if your master volume is before the fx loop or whatever part of the circuit the signal is sent from. Otherwise yes.

Well if you want to get under the hood, R29 is making the amp tighter the higher the gain control is set. Same as the 5152. Compare to the 5150 which has R29 connected between the wiper and pot input instead of ground which does the opposite, makes the amp looser the higher the gain is turned...

He always did on the Uber

Yeah, girth control is a cathode follower driving a large/bass cap and a small/tight cap, and a volume control that blends in the bass cap in parallel with the tight cap. Grind control is essentially a variable bright cap somewhere in the circuit. All trivial stuff

I make lots of preamps like this. Much quicker than building a full amp There's an eyelet board on reverb that makes them very quick to put together, about an hour once the case has been drilled.

If your 470k mixer resistors both have treble peaker caps, you can lose some isolation between channels through the unused gain pot if it's set low

You could use a flyback suppression diode to control the spike. Solving a problem that shouldnt exist imo

If it's as simple as slaving a superlead, it should be easy to recreate. Same as if it's just a couple of zeners on a superlead... I love lay it down. Tempted to try these things You're right about the recording equipment playing a big factor. But the harmonic content of the tone shouldnt...

No one is saying you cant do it. You can, just expect something to die soon.

I know it's not a SLO since they came out in ~1986, but Mike was installing that circuit in modded marshalls in 1985. For example:https://reverb.com/item/76960-marshall-soldano-modded-jcm800-1985-black-rare I speculate because I can pretty much nail that tone with my SLO and a greenback...

Sounds great, good idea to try it with a regular PA Pretty gained up for only 3 stages too

Same for me too - ive built piles of preamps and they dont take long. I cant be bothered building complete amps anymore. The preamps Ive played with sound just as good as the whole amp. Except maybe something like a cranked plexi where the power amp is pulling down the whole power supply rail...

I reckon it does ok, but you have to boost it hard and keep the gain dialed back to the bright cap is doing a lot to tighten and thin out the mids a bit. A TC integrated preamp or one of the myriad of clones does a pretty good job of boosting a SLO into modern metal territory with the gain dial...

Cool ok - whatever is in your loop is interacting with the change in pot value