You’d need what’s called an adjustable active impedance load. They’re expensive and not common.
Unfortunately transformers are super efficient - so much so - that what will happen is the secondary HT will reduce in voltage to supply current for the 6.3V winding. Remember that power in is power out - there’s only so many volt-amps allowed from the primary. So as you drive the 6.3V tap harder with more current requirements, the secondary HT will begin to drop significantly to provide the current to the 6.3V tap. This will happen until the insulator for the 6.3V melts or burns and shorts the taps together causing catastrophic failure.
Usually you can look at the gauge of the heater wire and determine roughly the current it’s capable of from AWG standards, but you know nothing of the health of the insulation material around the core if it’s a used PT or an old model.