A Wondrous Adventure: SLO Clone Build (Now with Clips)

FourT6and2

Well-known member
Clips toward the end somewhere.

Because my Metro Super Lead build-thread went so well (seen here: viewtopic.php?t=81365 ), I've decided to do the same with a SLO100 clone. I'm still waiting for most of the actual parts to come in. But let's get thangs goin' with a rundown of all the tools I'll be using. First, I'd just like to give a shout out to some of the peeps that gave me helpful advice and info during the research phase of this build: Rob at C3 Amps, Olaf Krampe, The folks at SLOCloneForums (Wartime-Novelty, Joey, and mjtripper), and Joachim at Tube-Town.de.

The build will basically be a stock SLO but with two possible mods: 1) Elevated AC Heaters and 2) A switchable, loop bypass.

First up is a gun to bring da heat:

heat_gun_by_haftelm-d7l65a2.jpg




Some wire stripping tools. I'm using teflon hook-up wire. So I had to get a new hand-stripper because teflon wire has much thinner insulation than normal PVC. So I needed s stripper that could go smaller than the one I had, even for the same AWG. The tool on the left is a special RG-188 coax stripper for the Belden shielded cable I'll be using. It strips in three levels (outer jacket, braided shield, inner insulator) in one fell swoop. Handy.

strippers_by_haftelm-d7l65aa.jpg




Basic hand tools. Pliers, flat cutter, round-nose jeweler pliers for bending wire and component leads smoothly, and a wide, flat, non-serrated pliers to perfectly straighten leads/wire.

hand_tools_by_haftelm-d7l65af.jpg




Other misc. stuffs. Component lead bender for resistors and caps and such on the PCB, supercool sharpie, orange wood sticks for (anal) probing, and an x-acto for zee slicin' unt dicin'.

misc_tools_by_haftelm-d7l65ak.jpg




The super pretty mil-spec, silver-plated, teflon hook-up wire. I chose the color palette for number one tone!

wire_by_haftelm-d7l65aq.jpg




For years I've just been using cheap, shitty, pain-in-my-ass soldering irons from Radio Shack. They get the job done. But the tips always corrode and melt away after like a week. And the temperature isn't regulated so the iron's tip fluctuates all over the place with regard to temperature. I decided to do it right this time and get a decent iron. I narrowed my choices down to Weller and Hakko. Weller has a good name. But the only two readily available irons were the WES51 and the digital version. Both pretty good. But this Hakko FX-888D has a ceramic heating element, has more features, is of much higher quality, and I got a bangin' deal on it that included a bunch of replacement tips of various shapes/sizes and a spool of Kester 44 Eutectic (63/37) solder—the good shit—all for less than the cost of the Weller unit alone. This iron makes soldering much easier, faster, and way more funtastic.

Oh and it LITERALLY (no joke) heats up from totally cold to 750 degrees F in about 20 seconds. It's magic, y'all.

hakko_by_haftelm-d7l659w.jpg


tips_by_haftelm-d7l659y.jpg


Stay tuned for more updates. Parts should start rollin' in soon.
 
If you still need the SLOclone PCB boards I think I might have them I can send to you. Just pay for the shipping. I bought them awhile back thinking I was going to build a SLO Clone. I doubt i'll ever use them.
 
cyndicate":3qot6jtq said:
If you still need the SLOclone PCB boards I think I might have them I can send to you. Just pay for the shipping. I bought them awhile back thinking I was going to build a SLO Clone. I doubt i'll ever use them.

I already have some boards on the way. But out of curiosity, which boards are they?
 
FourT6and2":9jkdfrl3 said:
cyndicate":9jkdfrl3 said:
If you still need the SLOclone PCB boards I think I might have them I can send to you. Just pay for the shipping. I bought them awhile back thinking I was going to build a SLO Clone. I doubt i'll ever use them.

I already have some boards on the way. But out of curiosity, which boards are they?

They were the ones sold on the SLOClone Forum. Let me know if you need them :)

They look like these ones I think.
boards_tn.jpg


Also good luck on the build! I wish I still had the time to try and attempt a build like this.
 
cyndicate":1ly3apd6 said:
FourT6and2":1ly3apd6 said:
cyndicate":1ly3apd6 said:
If you still need the SLOclone PCB boards I think I might have them I can send to you. Just pay for the shipping. I bought them awhile back thinking I was going to build a SLO Clone. I doubt i'll ever use them.

I already have some boards on the way. But out of curiosity, which boards are they?

They were the ones sold on the SLOClone Forum. Let me know if you need them :)

They look like these ones I think.
boards_tn.jpg


Also good luck on the build! I wish I still had the time to try and attempt a build like this.

Hmm, I don't really need them. I have some newly-designed boards coming from C3. But maybe they'll be nice to have for a rainy day. Hold on to them and if I need 'em in the future I'll drop you a line. Though, I do like the fact that the preamp PCB has solder pads on the top. Would make swapping components easier without having to pull the board.
 
FourT6and2":2x9d164r said:
cyndicate":2x9d164r said:
FourT6and2":2x9d164r said:
cyndicate":2x9d164r said:
If you still need the SLOclone PCB boards I think I might have them I can send to you. Just pay for the shipping. I bought them awhile back thinking I was going to build a SLO Clone. I doubt i'll ever use them.

I already have some boards on the way. But out of curiosity, which boards are they?

They were the ones sold on the SLOClone Forum. Let me know if you need them :)

They look like these ones I think.
boards_tn.jpg


Also good luck on the build! I wish I still had the time to try and attempt a build like this.

Hmm, I don't really need them. I have some newly-designed boards coming from C3. But maybe they'll be nice to have for a rainy day. Hold on to them and if I need 'em in the future I'll drop you a line. Though, I do like the fact that the preamp PCB has solder pads on the top. Would make swapping components easier without having to pull the board.

Cool, no prob. They have just been sitting in a box somewhere for a few years :LOL: :LOL:
 
cyndicate":2zurb5as said:
FourT6and2":2zurb5as said:
cyndicate":2zurb5as said:
FourT6and2":2zurb5as said:
cyndicate":2zurb5as said:
If you still need the SLOclone PCB boards I think I might have them I can send to you. Just pay for the shipping. I bought them awhile back thinking I was going to build a SLO Clone. I doubt i'll ever use them.

I already have some boards on the way. But out of curiosity, which boards are they?

They were the ones sold on the SLOClone Forum. Let me know if you need them :)

They look like these ones I think.
boards_tn.jpg


Also good luck on the build! I wish I still had the time to try and attempt a build like this.

Hmm, I don't really need them. I have some newly-designed boards coming from C3. But maybe they'll be nice to have for a rainy day. Hold on to them and if I need 'em in the future I'll drop you a line. Though, I do like the fact that the preamp PCB has solder pads on the top. Would make swapping components easier without having to pull the board.

Cool, no prob. They have just been sitting in a box somewhere for a few years :LOL: :LOL:

You gotta build the thing. Do eeet!
 
FourT6and2":s9q66dgv said:
cyndicate":s9q66dgv said:
FourT6and2":s9q66dgv said:
cyndicate":s9q66dgv said:
FourT6and2":s9q66dgv said:
cyndicate":s9q66dgv said:
If you still need the SLOclone PCB boards I think I might have them I can send to you. Just pay for the shipping. I bought them awhile back thinking I was going to build a SLO Clone. I doubt i'll ever use them.

I already have some boards on the way. But out of curiosity, which boards are they?

They were the ones sold on the SLOClone Forum. Let me know if you need them :)

They look like these ones I think.
boards_tn.jpg


Also good luck on the build! I wish I still had the time to try and attempt a build like this.

Hmm, I don't really need them. I have some newly-designed boards coming from C3. But maybe they'll be nice to have for a rainy day. Hold on to them and if I need 'em in the future I'll drop you a line. Though, I do like the fact that the preamp PCB has solder pads on the top. Would make swapping components easier without having to pull the board.

Cool, no prob. They have just been sitting in a box somewhere for a few years :LOL: :LOL:

You gotta build the thing. Do eeet!

Wish I still had the time. I have so many extra parts just lying around from my previous builds as well.
 
very nice, maybe someday I'll get around to building a SLO Clone, I'm having to much with some of my other builds right now. Got a nice setup there, think you got enough tips to choose from. You going to use LED/LDR is your circuit? I recently did a repair on a Mark 3 for a local guy and had to replace a few of them, after the repair I ended up buying the amp from the guy. Keep us posted with build pictures, look forward to following the build.
 
FourT6and2":1xxpczky said:
Hmm, I don't really need them. I have some newly-designed boards coming from C3. But maybe they'll be nice to have for a rainy day. Hold on to them and if I need 'em in the future I'll drop you a line. Though, I do like the fact that the preamp PCB has solder pads on the top. Would make swapping components easier without having to pull the board.

The last time I used the c3 boards they had the pads on top as well. I don't think he has changed them since then.
 
bwgintegra":3jcdcnvv said:
very nice, maybe someday I'll get around to building a SLO Clone, I'm having to much with some of my other builds right now. Got a nice setup there, think you got enough tips to choose from. You going to use LED/LDR is your circuit? I recently did a repair on a Mark 3 for a local guy and had to replace a few of them, after the repair I ended up buying the amp from the guy. Keep us posted with build pictures, look forward to following the build.

Hahah yeah, all the tips came with the iron. There are a few of them that are basically useless for this type of project (they're for SMD work). But came with two different chisel tips that are good, and a conical that has a flat spot that will be good for lugs on pots and jacks and such. And yup, using LDRs.

mjtripper":3jcdcnvv said:
FourT6and2":3jcdcnvv said:
Hmm, I don't really need them. I have some newly-designed boards coming from C3. But maybe they'll be nice to have for a rainy day. Hold on to them and if I need 'em in the future I'll drop you a line. Though, I do like the fact that the preamp PCB has solder pads on the top. Would make swapping components easier without having to pull the board.

The last time I used the c3 boards they had the pads on top as well. I don't think he has changed them since then.

If they were the black boards with plated thru-holes... then those aren't what I'm using. He has redesigned the boards to more closely match how the real SLO appears. So no plated thru-holes and no pads on the top of the board. It's more "authentic" to the real SLO. But on the flip side, not as versatile for rework. He did have a few of the black boards left. But I decided to go for the new ones. The power PCB has pads on the top though. Not sure why. Maybe for replacing filter caps and such?
 
FourT6and2":30blwg0c said:
The tool on the left is a special RG-188 coax stripper for the Belden shielded cable I'll be using. It strips in three levels (outer jacket, braided shield, inner insulator) in one fell swoop. Handy.

strippers_by_haftelm-d7l65aa.jpg

Does that coax stripper work on Beldon 8451 shielded cable? Would love that - I've been hand stripping it and it sucks...

What Belden cable are you using?

Steve
 
sah5150":2wxfwpfv said:
FourT6and2":2wxfwpfv said:
The tool on the left is a special RG-188 coax stripper for the Belden shielded cable I'll be using. It strips in three levels (outer jacket, braided shield, inner insulator) in one fell swoop. Handy.

strippers_by_haftelm-d7l65aa.jpg

Does that coax stripper work on Beldon 8451 shielded cable? Would love that - I've been hand stripping it and it sucks...

What Belden cable are you using?

Steve

It's made by Greenlee. They have a few different versions that work on various types of coax. You'd have to look it up to see which version you need for whatever coax you use. I'll be using the white, teflon Belden RG-188 A/U. So I just did a Google search for RG-188 stripper and found this one. But I know they have a bunch of various models to choose from.

EDIT: Oh wait... 8451 isn't coax, right? It's shielded multi-conductor? Not sure any of the Greenlee/Paladin strippers would work on that. They're all for coaxial-cable. But if you measure the outer diameter of your cable as well as the depth of the shield and insulation you should be able to find the closest-matching coax cable. Do a search for that coax code/number. The blades are all adjustable anyway. So it could work.
 
I have the same Hakko iron and its one of the best purchases I made in a long time. Its just a joy to use. I used cheap ones for years and could never go back now. Best of luck on the build!
 
This is badassed bro. You're far more ambitious than me. I'll swap out tubes, set the bias, rewire a guitar, but NEVER would I tread these waters. I let my buddy Curt build all my amps. :yes:
 
barnesjd":yxvgrliw said:
This is badassed bro. You're far more ambitious than me. I'll swap out tubes, set the bias, rewire a guitar, but NEVER would I tread these waters. I let my buddy Curt build all my amps. :yes:

It's fun! You should try it. As long as you can solder and have some attention to detail you shouldn't have any problems. Grab something easy to start, like a Champ or JTM45 or something from Ceriatone. My very first build was a Fender Champ kit from STF Engineering. Then I did a Metro Super Lead. Then a JCM800. And now the SLO. After this I might move on to a Yeti or King Kong from Ceriatone.
 
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