Are Zilla Cabs good?

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romanianreaper
romanianreaper
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Looking at 2x12 cabs and need something at 8 ohms, 2x12 and easy to carry. Are they pretty solid and are they fairly light and easy to carry?

Also wondering about the ordering process. How long does it take to build one of these?
 
I have one exactly like you're describing. 2x12, 8 ohms, grey tolex. It came with a V30 and a H75 Creamback but I upgraded it to two 1990 Celestion G12 Vintage speakers I got for a steal locally. Sounds incredible and when I opened the cab to swap the speakers, it was all top notch work on the inside. I would not describe it as "light" but it's lighter than a 4x12. I'd recommend them.

Unfortunately I cannot comment on the ordering process because I bought mine second hand.
 
I have a 2x12 super fatboy loaded with WGS Veteran 30's. It is light enough for me to carry up the stairs and into the car. It is definately not light enough that I would like to move it frequently though. Excellent construction and really solid. It feels like quality to me. nothing loose or jangely. When I ordered, I corresponded with email and payed with paypal. I cannot remember who it was I communicated with, but I do remember that they were very responsive and it was a very painfree process. I would definately buy from them again if the exchange rate was not so bad for me.
 
They're really nice but they aren't super light - at all.

They're more in the range of the Bogner OS 2x12 as far as weight, they're hefty.

It took me a while but I went through a lot trying to find the right "easy to carry" 2x12 - I ended up taking a marshall 1965 and converting it into a diagonal 2x12 with a couple scumback bm75LDs. It weighs a little more than half of a zilla, bogner, KSR, or boogie.
 
Looking at 2x12 cabs and need something at 8 ohms, 2x12 and easy to carry. Are they pretty solid and are they fairly light and easy to carry?

Also wondering about the ordering process. How long does it take to build one of these?
I am not sure about Zilla, but I have a couple of these cheap Seismic 212 LUKE cabs. They are oversized, and I think they sound pretty good. The wood is not as thick as the big names, so they tend to not be as heavy.

https://www.seismicaudiospeakers.co...oducts/empty-guitar-cabinet-2x12-black-black#
 
They're really nice but they aren't super light - at all.

They're more in the range of the Bogner OS 2x12 as far as weight, they're hefty.

It took me a while but I went through a lot trying to find the right "easy to carry" 2x12 - I ended up taking a marshall 1965 and converting it into a diagonal 2x12 with a couple scumback bm75LDs. It weighs a little more than half of a zilla, bogner, KSR, or boogie.
I ended up getting a Marshall Origin 2x12 today. Not a fan of the speakers do I'm sure I'm going to upgrade.

The 70/80 speakers sound harsh and not the low end I was hoping for. Tell me more about these bm75LD speakers. I have an Orange Super Crush 100, Quilter 202, EVH 5150-III, and want a Friedman Plex down the road. Will those work good for a hard rock tone?

Also. How hard is it to change speakers?
 
I ended up getting a Marshall Origin 2x12 today. Not a fan of the speakers do I'm sure I'm going to upgrade.

The 70/80 speakers sound harsh and not the low end I was hoping for. Tell me more about these bm75LD speakers. I have an Orange Super Crush 100, Quilter 202, EVH 5150-III, and want a Friedman Plex down the road. Will those work good for a hard rock tone?

Also. How hard is it to change speakers?

Changing speakers is very very easy - most have quick connects for the wires, and there are only 4-6 of them in a 2x12

RE: The scumback bm75ld speakers, they are absolutely fucking killer, and they sound like god, but they are only 25 watts each, so I don't know if it would fit your purposes. I'm using them with a 50 watt splawn nitro supersport



They would work fine with the EVH III but if you're cranking the super crush and quilter they wouldn't be enough.

I really don't like 70/80's myself, with the amps you're using I would go for for something different too. If you're going for low end, I would put one redback on the bottom and a v30 or 75 watt creamback on top.
 
Changing speakers is very very easy - most have quick connects for the wires, and there are only 4-6 of them in a 2x12

RE: The scumback bm75ld speakers, they are absolutely fucking killer, and they sound like god, but they are only 25 watts each, so I don't know if it would fit your purposes. I'm using them with a 50 watt splawn nitro supersport



They would work fine with the EVH III but if you're cranking the super crush and quilter they wouldn't be enough.

I really don't like 70/80's myself, with the amps you're using I would go for for something different too. If you're going for low end, I would put one redback on the bottom and a v30 or 75 watt creamback on top.

Thanks brother! Yeah I am running various amps and need more wattage but I was thinking about the creamback and v30 combo.
 
Thanks brother! Yeah I am running various amps and need more wattage but I was thinking about the creamback and v30 combo.

That's a good combo but if you're looking for low end you should combine one of those two with a redback, ev12L, k-100, etc something like that
 
That's a good combo but if you're looking for low end you should combine one of those two with a redback, ev12L, k-100, etc something like that
I was looking at the Neo Creambacks because they are lighter and saw they have those in the Orange vertical 2x12. The only reason I didn't get that is because it is a 16 ohm cab.
 
I was looking at the Neo Creambacks because they are lighter and saw they have those in the Orange vertical 2x12. The only reason I didn't get that is because it is a 16 ohm cab.

For sure, especially for lightness that would help - I prefer the sound of the 75 watt personally, but especially for gigs the weight is a big issue

with my cab, it was so lightweight that as long as I didn't put a 12L or JBL or something with a giant magnet in there, it was gonna end up really light, so I was able to get some more tone on the tone to weight inverse ratio
 
Also. How hard is it to change speakers?
I have changed speakers a lot. I have a great system now. But when you are new, if you don't understand the wiring methods, then the simplest way is to

1. Take a picture at the beginning. Also put tape at each connection on the wiring, and mark it as top right, top center..etc.

2. either unclip or unsolder the speaker connections. Like Dan said, most have the quick connects. That would be easiest.

3. Taking out the speakers is the easiest part, but remember gravity is a motherfucker, so if you do it with cab flat on the floor, you may drop your screwdriver into a speaker cone and fuck the whole process. I do it with the cabinet in a vertical position on a workbench.

4. when installing the new speakers, you may use an impact to quicken the process, however, you need to have a skilled trigger finger. I will use the impact on my mills because it has studs only to close the distance to the speaker. I do not tighten the speaker with the gun. i do that by hand. The speaker is not going to fly into outer space. There is a pad on the front of the fucker because all you need to do is secure the speaker to the cab inasmuch as the speaker cannot move freely. It does not need to be torqued to shit. Overtightening can bend the rim. Also, you can use the lugnut diagonal method which is to say, tighten one screw/nut then go for the furthest screw/nut away to tighten. What i do is just hand tighten, then give a quarter turn with a nut driver or socketwrench. You may also add a dab of silicone to keep it from backing out. This is a pretty good practice with a nut/stud arrangement.

Optionally, you can test each speaker with a 9volt battery to make sure they are all in phase and not wired backwards and/or you can wire the whole thing together and check the phase by putting the tip and ring to open two conductor wire and taping the other side of the two conductors to the 9 volt battery, then holding the tip or ring and just bouncing the other side while you look at each speaker to make sure it "jumps" in correct direction.
I also hook up a speaker cable and test the ohms with my multimeter just to make sure eveything is going right. on 8 ohm cab, you can sometimes get a reading like 6. On a 16 ohm cab, you can sometimes get a reading like 12 or 13. This is not a big deal. But you don't want to get a reading of around 4 on a 16 ohm cab.
 
Picture of my Zilla Fatboy when they just finished it up. I had it loaded with Celestion G12-65 Heritage speakers at 8 ohms. Fantastic sounding cabinet but as has been said..I wouldn't call em "light"
 

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Another Zilla user here - they make great cabs and are nice guys too.
 
one of the lightest cabs I ever pickup is DV Mark GH, 13,4 kg/29,5 pounds. There is something in mids with the neodymium speakers but easy to combine with something heavier in mids. Jensen Tornado Stealth 65 is fullest sounding neo from my experince.
I was intrested how the DV neoclassical speaker record so I make little clip. For comparison I put another on with micced 1x12 Bogner Cube with Alnico Cream, both are the same guitar ('23 R9 and Senn E906 mic and little to no efford for mic placement :) )



 
Zilla cabs are really, really great sounding an super well-built. We had one of the Fatboy cabs in the store that a gent traded in and it was glorious. Weighed about 62lbs and it was nice that they included the side handles. Very similar to the Bogner 212CB that I had.
 
 
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