Questions before you mod

Built in adjustable and bypassable noise gate

Dedicated series tube buffered effects loop with Send and return adjustable level controls. Have a push-pull send level knob to disable itself and enable a straight line level or instrument level 2 way switch

Have a second effects return level knob and use it as a second master volume solo boost or mute all

Adjustable NFB knob
Resonance

Various bright switch options

Individual tube bias control with fault LEDs

Have the bias capable of enough range to bias anything.

Soft start circuit to turn heaters on before applying B+

Keep the preamp tubes on AC heaters and put a humdinger in. Run the power tubes on a standalone AC heater transformer to lighten the load on the 71 PT of big bottle glass.

Upgrade the grounding scheme to star grounding throughout the whole amp

Sky is the limit honestly.
 
Built in adjustable and bypassable noise gate

Dedicated series tube buffered effects loop with Send and return adjustable level controls. Have a push-pull send level knob to disable itself and enable a straight line level or instrument level 2 way switch

Have a second effects return level knob and use it as a second master volume solo boost or mute all

Adjustable NFB knob
Resonance

Various bright switch options

Individual tube bias control with fault LEDs

Have the bias capable of enough range to bias anything.

Soft start circuit to turn heaters on before applying B+

Keep the preamp tubes on AC heaters and put a humdinger in. Run the power tubes on a standalone AC heater transformer to lighten the load on the 71 PT of big bottle glass.

Upgrade the grounding scheme to star grounding throughout the whole amp

Sky is the limit honestly.
If I want less noise wouldn't adding another transformer for AC heaters add noise? These suggestions are great, any more?
 
Power filtering IEC inlet module.

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If I want less noise wouldn't adding another transformer for AC heaters add noise? These suggestions are great, any more?

You want more? Sure!

In addition to the effects loop tube, Install a second preamp tube for a dedicated clean channel and turn it into a two channel amp with a full TMB tonestack, pregain, and master in the back. Base it off of the lonestar clean

Install a 250k resistor in parallel (pins 1 to 3) to the front main master volume on one side of a DPDT switch and another resistor around 50k from pins 2 to 3 on the other side of the DPDT switch to adjust the taper super low so that it can be better tamed for low volume playing.

Install an output tap from the OT with its own line level switches for amp slaving.

Triode/pentode switch for all tubes

100W/50W mode that isolates a pair of tubes and automatically also halves the impedance. You’ll want an indicator LED for this as well

MIDI control the whole thing using one of Jason Tongs kits for relay boards and MIDI.

Have series/parallel effects loop control while maintaining the dual return level feature.

I can come up with many more.
 
GLPs lists covered most of the stuff I would ask for but its missing one thing - a switchable pre-input hipass filter around 80-100hz.

For the love of god, every amplifier manufacturer should be doing this; the boost market would be flooded with people selling tube screamers
 
GLPs lists covered most of the stuff I would ask for but its missing one thing - a switchable pre-input hipass filter around 80-100hz.

For the love of god, every amplifier manufacturer should be doing this; the boost market would be flooded with people selling tube screamers
Explain pls
 
Explain pls

That EQ cut below that range (which is the fundamental frequency of the low "E" note on a guitar) is what separates something from being flubby or being tight. Given that no one uptunes unless theyre covering "its a long way to the top" with an actual bagpipe, as long as the hipass was around the fundamental of the low e frequency it would be an instant "tight" switch that actually worked - most "tight" switches are basically unusable because they cut the frequencies afterwards instead of before
 
That EQ cut below that range (which is the fundamental frequency of the low "E" note on a guitar) is what separates something from being flubby or being tight. Given that no one uptunes unless theyre covering "its a long way to the top" with an actual bagpipe, as long as the hipass was around the fundamental of the low e frequency it would be an instant "tight" switch that actually worked - most "tight" switches are basically unusable because they cut the frequencies afterwards instead of before
Wait, so it cuts some frequencies HIGHER instead of cutting all the lower ones? I’m learning all this just now
 
Wait, so it cuts some frequencies HIGHER instead of cutting all the lower ones? I’m learning all this just now

No, a hi pass lets all the frequencies above a certain point through, and cuts them below that point

a lo pass does the opposite

This is done all the time in post or on the di when recording, and it needs to become a normal thing with amps
 
No, a hi pass lets all the frequencies above a certain point through, and cuts them below that point

a lo pass does the opposite

This is done all the time in post or on the di when recording, and it needs to become a normal thing with amps
Thanks for clarification!

So most of “tight” switches do the opposite of cutting frequences below 80hz and cut low mid freq istead?
 
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