Ceriatone 2204 build

[V2a]

Just finished building a Ceriatone 2204 kit for a local guitarist. This one has Classictone PT and OT (and a choke that the owner purchased on eBay).

 

[Jayy]

Beautiful work. What do you think of the sound? I've been considering doing a Ceriatone 2203 with Sozo Nexgen caps lately, but using the factory Ceriatone PT, OT, and choke.

 

[V2a]

Beautiful work. What do you think of the sound? I've been considering doing a Ceriatone 2203 with Sozo Nexgen caps lately, but using the factory Ceriatone PT, OT, and choke.

I think it sounds great. There is some hum that I eliminate in my own amp designs, but once the speaker starts moving, you don't hear the hum....

 

[Rick Lee]

I bought a '79 JMP project head that had a Ceriatone board and little else in it. I also used CT trannies. I now have SED tubes in there and it effin rocks. I have a hankering for a 2203 version, but I can't complain about this one.

 

[fusedbrain]

Hey, that looks great!!
Just wondering - what's your take on that skinny wire Ceriatone supplies with their stuff? I did some work on a Ceriatone JTM45 clone a while back & it was a pain in the ass to work with. I'm currently building a hot-rodded 2204 based on a Ceriatone kit, and I decided to use the Plexi wire kit from Valvestorm. That stuff is much easier to deal with. I think the wire gauges are the same, but the jacket on the Ceriatone stuff is a bitch to strip and it's really stiff.

 

[FourT6and2]

Hey, that looks great!!
Just wondering - what's your take on that skinny wire Ceriatone supplies with their stuff? I did some work on a Ceriatone JTM45 clone a while back & it was a pain in the ass to work with. I'm currently building a hot-rodded 2204 based on a Ceriatone kit, and I decided to use the Plexi wire kit from Valvestorm. That stuff is much easier to deal with. I think the wire gauges are the same, but the jacket on the Ceriatone stuff is a bitch to strip and it's really stiff.

Yeah, the Ceriatone wire is really good, in reality. Because it's PTFE instead of regular ol' insulation. That means it resists heat better and holds its shape better and you won't melt the insulation when soldering. But it's thinner, so harder to strip. My auto-stripper has trouble with it, so I gotta do it by hand.

 

[FourT6and2]

Nice build!

Question about the PT: What's up with some people mounting the lay-downs by elevating it off the chassis with those nuts and some people mount 'em flush?

 

[fusedbrain]

Nice build!

Question about the PT: What's up with some people mounting the lay-downs by elevating it off the chassis with those nuts and some people mount 'em flush?

I think I'm using the same Classic Tone PT in my build as the OP, and the documentation that came with it said to NOT remove the nuts when mounting it to the chassis, so mine looks like the pics above. Not sure about other manufacturer's lay-down transformers.

And thanks for the info on the wire

 

[V2a]

The teflon wire is certainly difficult to deal with. I don't really like it for that reason. My favourite wire is the 20 AWG stranded stuff with PVC jacket sold by TubeDepot. It's got a thin jacket, but it is way easier to strip. Tube depot also sells 20 AWG (and also teflon), but it was a little too thin looking for my tastes.

As for the PT bolts, I'm not sure why some people use 'em while others don't. I figure they reduce mechanical vibration, but I haven't asked ClassicTone....

 

[SpiderWars]

Nice amp! I like the teflon wire. I've seen/done laydowns both ways, I doubt it makes much difference.

Is that an insert type loop? Does the guitarist you built it for use a C'lator or something to use the loop?

 

[V2a]

Nice amp! I like the teflon wire. I've seen/done laydowns both ways, I doubt it makes much difference.

Is that an insert type loop? Does the guitarist you built it for use a C'lator or something to use the loop?

Yes, it's a simple unbuffered loop between the master and the PI. I'm going to see if a metro loop will fit without having to do any metal work. At the moment, I don't know what the owner will want to put in the loop.

 

[CrazyNutz]

Nice build!

Question about the PT: What's up with some people mounting the lay-downs by elevating it off the chassis with those nuts and some people mount 'em flush?

Those nuts are there to keep the laminations together. You could take them off before mounting it, since mounting it would serve the same purpose, but really no reason to.

 

[fusedbrain]

From ClassicTone. Not sure why, but that's what they say...

 

[FourT6and2]

Yeah, Classic Tone says NOT to remove the nuts. But they aren't torqued on very tight at all. And removing them... the laminations do not just fall apart lol. They're lacquered together.

 

[Mr. Willy]

Mmmm...that's pretty.

 

[CrazyNutz]

Yeah, Classic Tone says NOT to remove the nuts. But they aren't torqued on very tight at all. And removing them... the laminations do not just fall apart lol. They're lacquered together.

No guaranty the lacquer will hold them all. I've had iron split between laminations just by taking an end bell off. No harm was done, but I guess its possible to cause problems because I've seen where they place spacers to align the bobbin, shifting the laminations could throw this off? cause a short perhaps? Also I have seen iron that has insulation (plastic or paper) between the nuts and the screws, perhaps to isolate the lamination from the chassis.

 

[FourT6and2]

Yeah, Classic Tone says NOT to remove the nuts. But they aren't torqued on very tight at all. And removing them... the laminations do not just fall apart lol. They're lacquered together.

No guaranty the lacquer will hold them all. I've had iron split between laminations just by taking an end bell off. No harm was done, but I guess its possible to cause problems because I've seen where they place spacers to align the bobbin, shifting the laminations could throw this off? cause a short perhaps? Also I have seen iron that has insulation (plastic or paper) between the nuts and the screws, perhaps to isolate the lamination from the chassis.

I've never personally run into problems. Usually there are spacers or inserts on the bolts to isolate them from the laminations. But those can come on/off no problem. I have a Mojo (Heyboer) transformer here with those same nuts (laydown style) too. I called Mojo and they said not to remove them. I called Heyboer, who makes the tranny) and they said it wasn't a problem. lol who do I trust?

 

[CrazyNutz]

Yeah, Classic Tone says NOT to remove the nuts. But they aren't torqued on very tight at all. And removing them... the laminations do not just fall apart lol. They're lacquered together.

No guaranty the lacquer will hold them all. I've had iron split between laminations just by taking an end bell off. No harm was done, but I guess its possible to cause problems because I've seen where they place spacers to align the bobbin, shifting the laminations could throw this off? cause a short perhaps? Also I have seen iron that has insulation (plastic or paper) between the nuts and the screws, perhaps to isolate the lamination from the chassis.

I've never personally run into problems. Usually there are spacers or inserts on the bolts to isolate them from the laminations. But those can come on/off no problem. I have a Mojo (Heyboer) transformer here with those same nuts (laydown style) too. I called Mojo and they said not to remove them. I called Heyboer, who makes the tranny) and they said it wasn't a problem. lol who do I trust?

I would trust Heyboer, but then again, I know of a big goof they made once. It's probably just fine.

 

[fusedbrain]

Hey V2a, I was just looking at your pics again. You didn't instal a fizz cap @ the PI?

 

[V2a]

Hey V2a, I was just looking at your pics again. You didn't instal a fizz cap @ the PI?

Good eye! I had a very rough 10 days, so I didn't catch this omission...