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Karl Brake
New member
Can you safely replace the stock KT77 in Diezel amps (mine being a Paul) with EL34s? If you've done it, what's your opinion?
100% yes.Can you safely replace the stock KT77 in Diezel amps (mine being a Paul) with EL34s? If you've done it, what's your opinion?
That sounds WAY too hot!!!!! Pull back - usually EL34s run optimally at around 32mA each, therefore maximum 70mA per pair.Well, I just put my new JJ KT77's and biased it to 80mA as instructed on the PCB. Sounds great!!! I actually got a note back from Peter Diezel saying that with the Diezel Paul EL34's are fine, since it evidently runs at lower plate voltage than other Diezels. Maybe this is part of the "Vintage" tone?? The bias was sitting at about 65 before, and I think I hear the difference with the slightly warmer bias.
If it's the PCB as in Printed Circuit Board - often these will indicate maximum thresholds, not "optimum operational range". I can't speak for your particular amp and its related printed circuit board, I only know from my experience of working on a lot of amps, upside-down with biasing and the like, 80mA is fkn hot.I hear that...but the instructions are clear on the board. I'll ask Peter. Yes, normally, 35 per tube is pretty standard, with Diezel and everyone else, but...it's printed right on the PCB, actually step by step. The Paul is a bit different from other Diezels. I'll ask Peter.
If it's the PCB as in Printed Circuit Board - often these will indicate maximum thresholds, not "optimum operational range". I can't speak for your particular amp and its related printed circuit board, I only know from my experience of working on a lot of amps, upside-down with biasing and the like, 80mA is fkn hot.
As for the comment above re: EL34 - yep - 25mA was the "hotter side" of those tubes back in the 80s; with many cats bringing them down to 20mA each for a more chunky punch.
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TUBES
Exactly! I picked up a Herbie mk1 local and it was loaded with Ruby EL34B-STR's. I've tried 2 other Herberts, one was a mk2 and the newest mk3. In the end they did not do it for me. I dug there features but something was just off for me. I only jumped on my current one because it was close and a good deal. Like I said it had Ruby EL34 BSTR's and sounded huge! Great 3D feel.Pro tip: drop EL34s down in the Herbert to 40-45 per pair on El34s. Better highs, better lows, tighter, less squawk, more punch. I’m surprised no one talks about this more... seriously, give it a shot, no need to run el34s that hot in Amps like this designed to be loud and tight.
Exactly! I picked up a Herbie mk1 local and it was loaded with Ruby EL34B-STR's. I've tried 2 other Herberts, one was a mk2 and the newest mk3. In the end they did not do it for me. I dug there features but something was just off for me. I only jumped on my current one because it was close and a good deal. Like I said it had Ruby EL34 BSTR's and sounded huge! Great 3D feel.
I started reading around about it and say that Peter was opposed to the BSTR's because the Herbie because of the screen voltage. He liked the EL34B-HT's better due to being able to handle a higher screen voltage so not wanting to damage my German made beauty I bought a sextet of the Ruby EL34B-HT's. Biased it and gave it a go. Sadly the B-STR'S sounded and felt way better. I was so bummed! Here I finally dug my Herbert ALOT and now it doesn't sound the same as it did with the B'STR's!
Looking back maybe biasing it a little colder would have done it but I sold the sextet of H-STR's and bought a sextet of Gold Lion KT77's and have never looked back! While it's not the same "feeling" as the B'STR'S had it has it's own thing now and I really dig it. Fat, huge, 3D tone with some great velvety middle.
I think that I will retry the H'STR's at some point but with a colder bias setting like VESmedic mentions.
I went with the GL-KT77s in my 20thA XTC - and they've worked incredibly well in that amp - for ages (they're still in there). I've used them in other amps with not to discernible a difference, basically, not worth the price of a =C=/SED or the like. Lately I've noticed a lot of contemporary manufacturers making some great bottles - way better than 10 years ago. JJ, Svetlana, Tung-Sol, some killer glass out there and price is no longer a direct correlation to "sonic quality" of a tube. The ECC83 are still my preferred preamp bottle, as is the Svetlana 12AX7.Man I really wanna like the gold lion kt77s, but nothing I’ve heard makes me wanna drop the cash for them. I just got some jj kt77s for my Herbert that should be here today, we will see if I like them. But I just couldn’t justify the cash for the gold lions after what I heard. Now the gold lion ecc83 for v1, that’s a different story, those things are phenomenal, huge fan. As well as TAD’s 7025.
Less hiss & fizz, more guttural punch and grind. Any mic setup will show, gain is NOT your friend when recording unless you want the Beehive Sonata as your final opus.Wish I would’ve done this so much sooner in my Herbert, unfortunately mine is an older model that doesn’t have external bias points, so it’s much more of a pain to do on the fly unfortunately. To me, running EL34s that hot is the same ridiculousness that people who “bias modded their 5150s to run hotter” and think that sounds better... they don’t, like at all, and are biased cold for a reason. Of course, these aren’t even remotely similar amps, however the same principles apply of course as far as tonal characteristics of a hotter or colder bias. I encourage everyone to Atleast try EL34s in the 40-45 ma range, especially if you have external bias points: it isn’t going to hurt in the least, if anything it’ll be quite the opposite. Especially if you mic up your amp often, the differences will be much more clear under a mic and monitoring in isolation on studio monitors.
That sounds WAY too hot!!!!! Pull back - usually EL34s run optimally at around 32mA each, therefore maximum 70mA per pair.