Fellow Rebel 30 users

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mark
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Mark

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Hello to all

I am a new Rebel 30 owner/user. (head and cab)

At first I wasn't sure about the amp and had some tone issues (mostly likely were my own fault due to connection issues with all my pedals)

Now that I have been playing this a while and getting it broken in, it sounds really sweet!
And loud enough? Hell ya! this will get loud enough to cut through the band no problem!

I have mine hooked up with a Digitch RP1000 using the 4-cable method, and the Rebel takes to this pedal very well.

Anyway, I am just excited and wanted to share my excitement and see if anyone else wanted to share their rig set up or expierences with this amp.

Thanks!
 
My take on the Rebel 30...tempermental...and moody, like me but a good amp if you have the patience to dial it in. I started with a Rebel 20 which IMO is one of the best amps on the market in it's price range as far as value for the dollar. Super easy to dial in, plays well with pedals, super versatile even though it's a single chanel.
Enter the rebel 30 cuz I have G.A.S. and I live in an apartment and I'm a poor bastard that spends way to much on guitar $hiT instead of a house payment, LOL. Had to have the XLR silent record out...plus the clean channel was a nice bonus. Anywho, I thought it would be a Rebel 20 on steroids....NOPE. Totally different amp. Used the same settings on the dirt channel...completely different amp. Tight and bright switches, totally different effect on the tone than the 20. Anwho, I digress.
My rig - Fender American Strat/Ibanez JS100 - running into a Morley Bad Horsie 2 - Fulltone OCD - MXR Phase 90 Script/MXR Micro-Flange then into a Fulltone Fat-Boost then into the amp. Run an MXR Carbon Copy through the loop by itself for echo.
My strat takes a lot of tweaking on the tone stack, has a lot of bottom through the 30, which is weird for a strat so you have to tweak the mids and highs and if you like some o/d in front then you have to back the tone down on the pedal or it get's a little tinny. Weird. Neck pickup sounds great without much noodle.
Humbuckers are a little more plug and play which is nice. The strange thing is I remember Bruce chiming in on one of these boards that the gain stage on the 30 is actually a bit heavier on the 30 but for some reason, I have to set the gain at 2:30 to get the same sound that I get from the 20 set at 1 o clock...go figure. Really warm with the bright switch kicked in, leaving the tight switch off and then if you goose it with a little O/D up front it really sings. That's my 2 cents. Hope this helps.
 
Glad you're bonding with your Rebel 30! :rock:
I loved mine right out of the box, but with new tubes (pre and power), it just kicks ass.

My sig shows most of my rig, but I'm redoing my pedalboard after a lot of buying and selling and trial and error. The board will be: Fulltone Fatboost->Danelectro TOD->Ernie Ball Wah->Line 6 M9 (with Ernie Ball VP jr 25k as an expression pedal)->Boss GE7. Currently waiting on my exp and wah pedals, so I'm hoping this will be the final arrangement. For a while anyway! I love the M9, but the ODs/Distortions just don't compare to analog ones to my ears (and I've tried tweaking every which way). I used to use the M9's wah sounds (with the exp pedal), and it sounds alright, but having to step on a patch, use the wah, then step on the patch again got to be a pain in live situations, so I decided to get a dedicated wah.
 
Nice rig musicmanmu!
I think I will be going the new tube route sometime next year, but for now I am really happy with the tones I am getting from this amp and my RP1000.
I know what you mean about the wah pedal on these multi FX units. I just got rid of my Bad Horise, and I kind of miss it, but I don't use to much wah so the RP's wah is more than enough for what I do.
 
ramblin390":6k0lyhh6 said:
try the bbe ben wah-great underrated wah
Click to expand...

I tried to get one off eBay but couldn't win the auction at the last minute. :thumbsdown:
I did some research and decided that the Ernie Ball wah looked good. And since I have a VP jr 25k as my expression pedal, that wah will have the same dimensions. Grabbed one used on eBay for $70 :thumbsup:
 
I run my R30 Head thru a closed 2x12 cab with v30s plus either my main board or back up board shown below.
Great versatile amp and much better than the R20 I owned previous to it :D

pedalboard23-6-11.jpg


pedalboard2small19-6-11.jpg
 
I need clarification on biasing my rebel 30. It says to adjust to 40vdc on the circuit board for both the el84's and 6v6 tubes. But, from my research and understanding, this cannot be correct according to the wattage limits of those tubes. In fact half of that ( 20vdc) would be more like it... Also I have been wrecking set after set of tubes setting them at 40vdc... My last set lasted two gigs before sounding raspy and losing the nice smooth feel. Is the 40vdc in fact need to be divided by two as in the number of tubes being checked ? I just set my rebel at 24vdc for the 84's and 26vdc for the 6v6's and it sounds pretty good ... with better tone and chord clarity and less compression than the 40vdc setting... Can someone verify that this is correct or set me straight ?
 
kingoftone":2sc0sz36 said:
I need clarification on biasing my rebel 30. It says to adjust to 40vdc on the circuit board for both the el84's and 6v6 tubes. But, from my research and understanding, this cannot be correct according to the wattage limits of those tubes. In fact half of that ( 20vdc) would be more like it... Also I have been wrecking set after set of tubes setting them at 40vdc... My last set lasted two gigs before sounding raspy and losing the nice smooth feel. Is the 40vdc in fact need to be divided by two as in the number of tubes being checked ? I just set my rebel at 24vdc for the 84's and 26vdc for the 6v6's and it sounds pretty good ... with better tone and chord clarity and less compression than the 40vdc setting... Can someone verify that this is correct or set me straight ?
Click to expand...

The bias is supposed to be set so that you read 40 millivolts (mV) DC at each test point. Make sure your meter is set to volts DC.
 
K of T, Did you receive my email I sent to you the other day? Also, you did not answer my question about the fuse and meter at the end of the paragraph below.

The 40mVDC (not 40VDC) reading is correct. Each test
point is actually measuring the sum of the currents for each pair of
tubes. This means, for example, your reading of 40mVDC is divided by
two so each tube is idling at approx. 20mVDC, which is fine. I can't
imagine why you would be burning tubes up like that. If you do set the
pairs to 24-26mVDC, and you like the sound, go ahead and do that. Each
tube will be idling at around 12mVDC, which would be considered low,
but certainly not harmful in any way. There really is nothing unusual
about the design that is hard on power tubes so I am at a loss at to
why your tubes would fail like that. I know of no one else with this
issue. I guess if setting the bias low as you have sounds good, and
saves your tube, you should go with that. Are you sure you meter is
reading correctly you are using the mVDC(not mADC) setting. Have you
had any power tubes actually short and blow the high voltage tube fuse
on the rear at any time in the past?
 
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