Herbert power tube placement question & others

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racerevlon

racerevlon

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Sorry if this has already been asked--my search was not fruitful.

To the best of my information the tube pairs on the Herbert are laid out as follows:

1 2 3 3 2 1

So here's my question... do the tubes in the "1" positions have more of an effect on the tone than the subsequent pairs, or are all tubes created equal?

Also, refresh my memory--V1 is closest to the clean channel (1), correct?

Thanks!
 
You're right about the powertube layout: X Y Z Z Y X

I don't believe the position of these power tubes affects the tone when using different pairs.

V1 is closest to the input transformer, to the best of my recollection.

If in doubt, PM MARK2C, Poppa, Pauly, or Peter S.

Peace,
V.
 
You are absolutely right about the layout and yes, V1 is the one closest to the input jack.

The position of the powertubes does not make any difference, just make shure you put the same tubes in corresponding positions ;-)
 
Ok--so riddle me this... from a "theoretical" standpoint, what would you expect the tonal difference to be when going from this config:

Ruby KT88 -- Ruby EL34BHT -- Ruby EL34BSTR -- Ruby EL34BSTR -- Ruby EL34BHT -- Ruby KT88

To this config:

Ruby 6L6GCMSTR -- Ruby EL34BHT -- Ruby EL34BSTR -- Ruby EL34BSTR -- Ruby EL34BHT --Ruby 6L6GCMSTR

Thanks!
 
i used to run the 4 EL34/2 6L6 config. It was great. Still had the grind but was a lot smoother. I think you will really like it. wont be as dry as the combo with the KT88s.
 
Sweet--tips on the internet about tube "burn-in" accurate (leave it on for a couple hours on stand-by) or is there another suggestion?

Thanks for all the tips--I'm super-excited to get the Herbert and the VH4 dialed in side-by-side.

Cheers,
 
elfredoo":1brn86ga said:
i think they are all being "burned in" at diezel hq.

Right, but these are replacement tubes I purchased from Valve Queen (AWESOME!!)
 
racerevlon":1y9zgcwz said:
elfredoo":1y9zgcwz said:
i think they are all being "burned in" at diezel hq.

Right, but these are replacement tubes I purchased from Valve Queen (AWESOME!!)

For the tubes to be matched, there's usually a level of burn in already conducted... I wouldn't read too much into it. Typically, whenever I replace my glass, I do so, bias, tighten everything up, play for 10 hours on it, then re-bias to make sure to compensate for any shift. I've found there to be little shift typically, but it never hurts to double check.

You'll love it!! Period :D

V.
 
I'm putting this here also because the other thread shows "solved" but my problem is not solved:

Ok--I need some real help here. I've just finished re-tubing the power section of my Herbert and setting the bias via a Weber Bias Rite to Papa Diezel's recommended values. I also replaced V1, V2, V3 with brand new Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+ tubes. It sounded great through my test cab (Crate Blue VooDoo with Mesa V30's, mono, 16 ohm) and I was finally at peace. I moved it back into my music room and connected it to my stock Marshall 1960A (mono, 16 ohm, G12T-75's) and after about 5 minutes of playing on Channel 2+ I started getting the mentioned crackling sound BAD. So bad the amp would completely cut out at times. Problem is, it only happens on Channel 2. Channel 1 and Channel 3 are solid and the problem does not happen--only on Channel 2. I looked up the tech specs on the Diezel web site and it doesn't appear there is any preamp tube that is exclusive to Channel 2. I'm going to put back the preamp tubes I took out to see if maybe one of the new pre tubes is bad, but C'mon... this is getting ridiculous.

Oh, and this only happens when I get up past bedroom levels, like around 8:00-8:30 on the Volume 1 knob. Past bedroom level but not concert volume. Fairly loud.

HELP!!

I finally get this amp sounding exactly like I want, and now this. Please help!!

Thanks in advance...
 
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