Home made cables question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Len Rabinowitz
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Len Rabinowitz

Len Rabinowitz

New member
OK guys-

I'm in the final stages of what has turned out to be a summer long project of upgrading my pedal board.

Naturally, questions about cables have come up. Custom cut lengths are appealing.

You can either screw on the 1/4 inch plugs or solder them on. Screw on is easier and is my preference, but some say solder sounds significantly better.

What say you, gentlemen?

You guys have been a great help with this project- I'll post pics if it ever gets done!

;) :D :lol: :LOL: :confused: :worship: :shocked: :inlove: :loco: :cheers: :salute:
 
Solder all the way. If done well (which isn't that complicated actually) you won't have a cable falling apart in the middle of a gig, thanks to a loose screw.
Use quality cables and plugs (don't have to be crazy expensive though, I'm using €1.20/meter Sommer Spirit and €2 each Neutrik/Switchcraft plugs with great results), and you'll have cables that'll outlive you.
The main part is using a good soldering iron, it helps tremendously.
Also, a good tip (not my idea, just passing it on) for easy soldering is to use an old stompbox as connector holder.

With all this, wiring your board will be a breeze, and it'll be rock solid !
 
I always go with soldered ends. Nothing is worse than trying to hunt down a bad connection in a pedalboard using non soldered ends like George L's.
Once you make a couple cables, you 'll see it's easy and really doesn't take that much longer than the non-soldered. In the end, you'll have a better connection, better durability and possibly better tone(?Some say)....

I won't say that soldered sounds better. I personally think that the George L's cable sounds great. I also think that Mogami, Canare, Gepco and Lava sound good. FWIW, I just redid my rack and pedalboard with Mogami and Neutrik ends. Sounds great. I opted to go with soldered for the durability/performance. It also ended up costing a little less than had I gone the solderless route. The Mogami isn't really expensive in bulk and the Neutrik ends werent bad either. The solderless stuff isn't cheap.

Go with what your comfortable with. If you don't want to do all the soldering go with solderless. If done right, it can be durable--Trailer Trash does alot of their custom boards with George L's. However, I personally like soldered ends for the reasons above.

Just my $.02
 
I knew you guys would say soldered- AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!

I'll have to suck it up and do it. I have soldered before.

Maybe I will just buy a set of cables pre-made.

If I make my own, who makes the best kits, soldered or not soldered?

Thanks!

:doh: :doh: :confused: :confused: :cry: :cry:
 
Len Rabinowitz":xi2jvcrc said:
I knew you guys would say soldered- AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!

I'll have to suck it up and do it. I have soldered before.

Maybe I will just buy a set of cables pre-made.

If I make my own, who makes the best kits, soldered or not soldered?

Thanks!

:doh: :doh: :confused: :confused: :cry: :cry:
Click to expand...

I just bought all the cable and ends from http://www.redco.com/

Pre-made are available from George L's, Lava Cable and Planet Waves.

It's cheaper to buy in bulk. I got everything from them for the rack and pedalboard for under $100. Solderless would have been about twice that.
 
Just make sure that you know how to solder WELL. :D

I used to think that I knew how to solder. Until I learned hot to do it properly. Now I realize that all my old connections were either cold, or dirty, or just plain hanging on by dear life. If you're not 100% confident in your soldering skills, but some cheap cable and plugs, and PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE on them. Making your own cables isn't rocket science for sure, but it does require a certain amount of finesse and skill.

If you're a heavy gigging player, and you don't plan on redoing your pedalboard anytime soon, I'd go with soldered ends.

If you're mainly a home player, or just jamming with friends, and you think there is the possiblity of some pedalboard swapping/rearranging, I'd do solderless until it's totally worked out.

Len - that's what I did. I got my pedaltrain, and set it up with George L's, and live with it for a while. Then, I went the soldered Canare/Neutrik route. I sold my George L's, and made back a good 75% of what I spent on them.

On the flipside, Matt (EWSEthan) has been using George L's and gigging with them for two years without a problem. If you're not unplugging/plugging cables constantly, and you just make them solid and let them be, they work great.
 
I think both are viable options. I had Klark do my rack with all custom made cabling. But, I had Rooster @ Trailer Trash do my pedalboard w/ George L's. If done right, the George L's are great. I had him do my pedalboard initially 5 years ago w/ George L's, and I never had a bad connection. He redid it last summer, and I'm still good to go. But, I don't take pedals on / off at all, or unplug / replug in pedals either. If that's your plan, then I'd go with George L's....of you plan to change your pedalboard, or potentially move stuff around where the connection can go bad w/ George L's, then I'd recommend soldering.

Both sound great IMHO.
 
I say solder, but I only recommend it if you're spending $70-$100 on a good temp controlled soldering station.

Buy your cable and ends @ redco.com.

the cheapest neutrik end works REALLY well.

The cheap house-brand redco cable feels and sounds like Canare GS-6 to me. It's about half the price.

for a pedal board, I HIGHLY recommend Canare GS-4. Sounds GREAT, and it's REALLY easy to work with. Strips well, solder sticks to it, etc. It's about the width of George L, so it doesn't take up a bunch of space like the thick stuff.
 
Yes, both sound great.

If someone says "Hmmm, that sounds like a solderless connection to me..." they're full of crap.

One of the most important things I leared for soldering cables is that 25Watt irons just don't work. I need a 40Watt, pencil point. Nice and hot, heats up the metal really fast, solder melts fast, boom, done.
 
I am appreciating all of this guys- I knew this would spark conversation! I think here is where it lies right now:

1. I am still buying and selling a few pieces. Let that finish and get a sense of the layout of the board.

2. Use everything I already have and get a sense of what I really need.

3. At that point, maybe buy some pre-made ones or the George L. solderless.

4. Live with it for awhile and then make a final decision.

I am pretty much a home player- but I di some gigs and have been investigating bands and other/more musical opportunities lately, and will continue doing that, so I think I need something pretty sturdy.

I have a cheap Radio Shack soldering iron, and would just as soon not spend money on a new one.
Any recommendations for decent already made ones? I do like the idea of custom lengths, however...

:worship: :bash: :poke: :shocked: :student: :inlove: :loco: :cheers2: :gay: :checkthisout: :rawk:
 
There's nothing wrong with a Radio Shack iron. Mine have been working great so far. You need to change the tips often, but other than that, they're working fine for me.

I think you got the right idea, Len. Definitely set up the board, and live with it for a while. Not just lookin' at it either!!! :lol: :LOL: Play it, jam with it, jam with people, gig with it. You may wind up hating a pedal, hating where you put a pedal, etc.

I probably went thru 20-25 different pedalboard configurations in my 15 years of playing. And every one was "the last one I'll ever need!" hahaha. So NOT true.

I've finally realized that I like a simple setup. And that I mainly use effects in the studio, not live. So after living with it for a while, I took the plunge and "hard wired" it with soldered connections.

web.jpg


9 times out of 10, at our gigs, I don't even step on anything but the tuner and footswitch. hahaha.
 
You're the singer Nick...You shouldn't be doing anything complex anyways. Plus...they probably aren't even putting your amp through the mains!!! hahahahahahahah :) J/K btw.

RockStarNick":oy5cxie8 said:
There's nothing wrong with a Radio Shack iron. Mine have been working great so far. You need to change the tips often, but other than that, they're working fine for me.

I think you got the right idea, Len. Definitely set up the board, and live with it for a while. Not just lookin' at it either!!! :lol: :LOL: Play it, jam with it, jam with people, gig with it. You may wind up hating a pedal, hating where you put a pedal, etc.

I probably went thru 20-25 different pedalboard configurations in my 15 years of playing. And every one was "the last one I'll ever need!" hahaha. So NOT true.

I've finally realized that I like a simple setup. And that I mainly use effects in the studio, not live. So after living with it for a while, I took the plunge and "hard wired" it with soldered connections.

web.jpg


9 times out of 10, at our gigs, I don't even step on anything but the tuner and footswitch. hahaha.
Click to expand...
 
From what you just said here..I'd go w/ George L's. Make sure you get a really sharp straight edge when you cut them. Getting a good clean cut, is always the best way to start out and helps for longevity.

Radio Shack 40-watt pencil tip iron is what I use for sure.

Eric

Len Rabinowitz":1zlqqnd9 said:
I am appreciating all of this guys- I knew this would spark conversation! I think here is where it lies right now:

1. I am still buying and selling a few pieces. Let that finish and get a sense of the layout of the board.

2. Use everything I already have and get a sense of what I really need.

3. At that point, maybe buy some pre-made ones or the George L. solderless.

4. Live with it for awhile and then make a final decision.

I am pretty much a home player- but I di some gigs and have been investigating bands and other/more musical opportunities lately, and will continue doing that, so I think I need something pretty sturdy.

I have a cheap Radio Shack soldering iron, and would just as soon not spend money on a new one.
Any recommendations for decent already made ones? I do like the idea of custom lengths, however...

:worship: :bash: :poke: :shocked: :student: :inlove: :loco: :cheers2: :gay: :checkthisout: :rawk:
Click to expand...
 
Don't use a regular cable-cutter pair of pliers. It tends to squash the cable, and you run the risk of your ground sheild touching the hot.

Use a brand new, really sharp box cutter blade, and "saw" thru it. You'll get a really really clean end.
 
RockStarNick":20elqqw3 said:
Don't use a regular cable-cutter pair of pliers. It tends to squash the cable, and you run the risk of your ground sheild touching the hot.

Use a brand new, really sharp box cutter blade, and "saw" thru it. You'll get a really really clean end.
Click to expand...

Totally agree..and is exactly what I do when I make George L cables.

Eric
 
I've used George L's and NEVER had an issue with them. But I've been making my own cables for a long time. I have several irons: Radio Shack, Ungar, Weller. I just got a nice soldering station though.

They're all good. Soldering is more about the technique then the gear. Sound familiar? :D

Keep the tip clean and tinned. Tin your wire and mating surface. Join them and heat. As soon as the solder melts and is shiny, pull the iron away and let it cool. Don't move the pieces while they're drying and don't blow on it to speed the drying. Oh and don't put the iron on the solder to get it to melt. Your tip should be touching the piece that's getting soldered: a tab, wire, etc.

That's pretty much it.
 
Len Rabinowitz":1o52ci1q said:
Casey Hanson":1o52ci1q said:
board.jpg


soldered all the way.
Click to expand...

A work of art- Mine looks more like a Jackson Pollock painting right now- or maybe a Dali... viewtopic.php?f=26&t=51791

:cheers: :cheers: :cheers2: :cheers2:
Click to expand...

gigging out with a not 100% complete solid rig is a nightmare. i've been building rigs for a few years now, and have yet to have one go down. i'm moving back to the rack though, because it looks cooler on stage.. j/k
 
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