Pittbull Ultra Lead or GP3 & 2/90/2 rig?

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dirtyfunkg
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Here's the deal. I just won an ebay auction for a Digitech GSP-1101 and Control 2 setup that I want to integrate in using the 4cm with my UL. I'd like to go to a full midi-switching set up based around the Pittbull. Unfortunately, the UL is not midi compatible and I'd have to spend an extra $200 to get an Amp Gizmo to go with it.

Has anyone used the GP3 and 2/90/2 setup? I know technically the preamps are very similar if not the same, but how would you compare that set up to the Pittbull itself (all other things being equal, including cabs, etc)? I'd love some feedback here. The GP3 is supposed to be the 3 channel Pittbull preamp with EQ. Is the 2/90/2 power amp similar to the Pittbull power amp given the tube complement? The 2/90/2 is supposed to be one of the best power amps out there, right?

Is it worth it for me to go ahead and sell the UL (It's a 2011, minty condition) and get a GP3 and 2/90/2 setup? This affords me the full midi switching AND a stereo option so that I can actually run the Digitech's effects in stereo with my Genz Benz cab. Another hidden benefit is that I can just take a rack, pedalboard, and cabinet in, and wiring everything up is very simple as opposed to taking rack, pedalboard, head, and cabinet. If you're in my position, if you could somehow break even on costs, would you do such a switch?

Thanks.
 
Sounds like you answered your own question.

You will probably benefit from more flexibility from the rack set up. You will lose at LEAST $200 on resale of the head plus have to buy the Amp Gizmo. I assume you will buy the power amp used? How often do the GP3's come up for sale?
 
Everything would be used. I've got a line on a GP3 for $800 and a 2/90/2 for $700 (both plus shipping). I'd just need to sell my Pittbull first.

I guess where I'm coming from is, in this case, if there would be any compromise in the actual tone, I'd have serious reservations about the switch. Is a GP3 and 2/90/2 essentially going to cop the same tones as my UL? If yes, then it seems like a no brainer.
 
dirtyfunkg":1en7bej8 said:
Everything would be used. I've got a line on a GP3 for $800 and a 2/90/2 for $700 (both plus shipping). I'd just need to sell my Pittbull first.

I guess where I'm coming from is, in this case, if there would be any compromise in the actual tone, I'd have serious reservations about the switch. Is a GP3 and 2/90/2 essentially going to cop the same tones as my UL? If yes, then it seems like a no brainer.

From my understanding, yes. It should cop the same tones as your UL.
 
Id either go full rack, or head and pedal board. Tried the head/rack thing, and unless your head is in your rack case, its a huge PITA to setup and tear down. My rack setup was the easiest fucking thing in the world to setup and tear down. Stacks were a little more difficult than the rack, but not much. To me, its either one or the other...both gets too cumbersome. Nowadays, though, Im just using my 5150 212...and thats by far the easiest thing to setup, tear down, and transport lol. I cant say much on the tone stuff, but thats my take on the setup situation. Also, the amp gizmo things are supposed to be well worth the 200 bucks...
 
I liked the sound of the head better...only taste.
Fryette recommended this for my Sig X & said it used better parts inside. You might want to ask them if they recommend it for the UL.... and last I looked these were about $120.

http://www.voodoolab.com/controlswitcher.htm
 
From the times I played a gp3 when they were new I wouldn't do it. Didn't sound or respond like a UL in any way. It was definitely softer and didn't have the attack. It might be good for a fusion guy but I wouldn't want to do anything heavy through it.
 
rbasaria":v0xgmpnf said:
Id either go full rack, or head and pedal board. Tried the head/rack thing, and unless your head is in your rack case, its a huge PITA to setup and tear down. My rack setup was the easiest fucking thing in the world to setup and tear down. Stacks were a little more difficult than the rack, but not much. To me, its either one or the other...both gets too cumbersome. Nowadays, though, Im just using my 5150 212...and thats by far the easiest thing to setup, tear down, and transport lol. I cant say much on the tone stuff, but thats my take on the setup situation. Also, the amp gizmo things are supposed to be well worth the 200 bucks...
Raf??? What the hell are you doing here???
 
Never used a GP3 personally, but I read that they can be prone to overheating without a bit of extra space for ventilation.
 
stephen sawall":12nxvom1 said:
I liked the sound of the head better...only taste.
Fryette recommended this for my Sig X & said it used better parts inside. You might want to ask them if they recommend it for the UL.... and last I looked these were about $120.

http://www.voodoolab.com/controlswitcher.htm

Steve, I've seen you on the Fryette forums.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the UL has 5 switchable functions: Lead, Rhythm, Boost, EQ, and FX. The Control Switcher can only control up to 4 functions, which means I'd have to sacrifice somewhere (something I'm not too interested in, TBQH as I use all of these functions on the UL). Big reason I'm going this whole route is to minimize tap dancing.

I did more research on the GP3 and have decided against that route. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to compare favorably to a UL. Maybe it's time to invest in an amp and rack case with an Amp Gizmo and maybe a mono power amp if I want to run in stereo.
 
I've had both, stay with the UL. Great products, but you won't get the same thing from the GP3/power amp combination that you will from the head. The gain saturation isn't the same, no matter how you dial in the GP3, as the UL. I tried. I spent a couple of months going through all the different options on that setup. It's close, but no cigar. There's a gain mod that can be done that helps out the GP3 with it, but why spend the extra dough to have it done, when it's already done for you in the for of the UL.
 
JerEvil":275oh4ox said:
rbasaria":275oh4ox said:
Id either go full rack, or head and pedal board. Tried the head/rack thing, and unless your head is in your rack case, its a huge PITA to setup and tear down. My rack setup was the easiest fucking thing in the world to setup and tear down. Stacks were a little more difficult than the rack, but not much. To me, its either one or the other...both gets too cumbersome. Nowadays, though, Im just using my 5150 212...and thats by far the easiest thing to setup, tear down, and transport lol. I cant say much on the tone stuff, but thats my take on the setup situation. Also, the amp gizmo things are supposed to be well worth the 200 bucks...
Raf??? What the hell are you doing here???

:D

I pop in here from time to time.
 
dirtyfunkg":7av4awlj said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the UL has 5 switchable functions: Lead, Rhythm, Boost, EQ, and FX. The Control Switcher can only control up to 4 functions, which means I'd have to sacrifice somewhere (something I'm not too interested in, TBQH as I use all of these functions on the UL).

.....maybe a mono power amp if I want to run in stereo.

I am not sure ..... I think you are right. I was thinking that when I posted & that is why I said ask Fryette. The Sig X also has five foot-switches on it's board.... but defaults to the Clean channel when Rhythm & Lead are off on the Voodoo Lab.

As for the other I want to do a W/D/W rig with my rack. Have not decided on a poweramp yet. Kind of waiting for the new Fryette to come out before I decide. The new amp can be switched between stereo & mono.
 
I've owned both and they are not the same. My GP3 had the gain mod as well. I prefer the tone of the UL. I'd say stick with the UL, especially if you dig it. The other thing, i had a hell of a time trying to sell my GP3.
 
 
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