Retubing...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sam Laming
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Sam Laming

Sam Laming

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:doh: I'm going to retube my amp now, however, Doug of Diezel UK told me to try my old tubes with a new Fuse because I think my tubes 'went' because a cable in my guitar come lose/he said it could have been a mains surge.

1. It's 1&6 that's LED lit up on my Herbert, do I need a fuse in to bias?

2. We just had the old tubes in, no fuse in 1&6, turned power on and it went straight out, does that mean the tubes are dead?

3. and do I set my multimeter to ma -ac or ma - dc?

4. the multi meter doesn't slot directly in but my brother pressed the tips on the copper/metal part that they need to contact and the channel lights flashed and then went off, does this matter? (that the multi meter doesn't slot straight in but is loose).

5. How do you remove the fuse that's under the kettle lead? I don't know if that needs replacing maybe...

Help would be so awesome thanks.
 
You can find directions on how to bias your amp on Diezel's website in the Tech Corner. Here is the link:

http://diezelamplification.com/tech-corner.3.0.html

I actually just re-tubed my amp following these directions with 6 x Electro Harmonix 6CA7 with the bias on each pair set at 0.062 Amps, or 62 mA. Don't forget to set the multi-meter to DC

I had a blown fuse for pair A, tubes 3&4, but didn't even realize it until it came time to re-tube since I have an older model Herbert without the easy bias and led lights that indicate tube failure. I knew something didn't sound quite right with my Herbie!

In case you're wondering what kind of fuse you need, they're 0.5 Amp 250V Slow-blow or Time-Delay whatever you want to call it. The size is 5mm x 20mm.
 
Thanks buddy but I've seen that and that's what I was following to bias my amp. Now it won't turn on.

I've got the newer Herbie + external bias pots, I know it's the slow blow for the fuses by the pots but I'm not sure how to open the one under the kettle lead.
 
If you mean the mains fuse: take a screwdriver and pull the "drawer" with the fuse and spare fuse out. The fuse closer to you is the spare, the one closer to the inside of the amp is the "working" fuse.

Shit, I wish my english was better . . .

Any more problems?
 
Your English is brilliant.

My bro's at work now so he's taken his multi meter as he needs it so I can't try it now but his multi meter doesn't slot directly in but my bro held it in place while I turned it on and the channel lights flashed and then went off, does this matter? (that the multi meter doesn't slot straight in but is loose).
 
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