Smell. Blow fuse. Replace tubes. Works. Blows fuse dead.

[skullfxr]

It is a trace elliot speed twin C50.

The guy mismatched the load. Smell, turn off. Replace tubes, works for five minutes. Blows fuse. Replace fuse, no on light or anything. Dead as a fucking door knob. Nothing melted on a visual inspection.

Whatcha'all think happened? It was runing 4 ohms into an 8 ohm speaker. I have never had a 1:2 or 2:1 ratio screw things up so bad.

Do you think that I killed a tyranny?

 

[scottosan]

It is a trace elliot speed twin C50.

The guy mismatched the load. Smell, turn off. Replace tubes, works for five minutes. Blows fuse. Replace fuse, no on light or anything. Dead as a fucking door knob. Nothing melted on a visual inspection.

Whatcha'all think happened? It was runing 4 ohms into an 8 ohm speaker. I have never had a 1:2 or 2:1 ratio screw things up so bad.

Do you think that I killed a tyranny?

HT? Mains? Or both? Also, are you using Slo blo fuses? If fuses are replaced will it power on without power tubes? 8 ohm speaker plugged into a 4 ohms secondary would not cause this. A JTM45 and other amps get their tone from.mismatching secondary impedances. In your case , you'd basically yield less wattage.

 

[skullfxr]

It is a trace elliot speed twin C50.

The guy mismatched the load. Smell, turn off. Replace tubes, works for five minutes. Blows fuse. Replace fuse, no on light or anything. Dead as a fucking door knob. Nothing melted on a visual inspection.

Whatcha'all think happened? It was runing 4 ohms into an 8 ohm speaker. I have never had a 1:2 or 2:1 ratio screw things up so bad.

Do you think that I killed a tyranny?

HT? Mains? Or both? Also, are you using Slo blo fuses? If fuses are replaced will it power on without power tubes? 8 ohm speaker plugged into a 4 ohms secondary would not cause this. A JTM45 and other amps get their tone from.mismatching secondary impedances. In your case , you'd basically yield less wattage.

I replaced the mains, still will not turn on. Can't find an HT and am damn near sure that there isn't one.

 

[skullfxr]

I should say that I can't even get it to even blow a fuse.

 

[scottosan]

I should say that I can't even get it to even blow a fuse.

Since the pilot lights could be either 120v or 6v, you need to decide and conquer. Remove all tubes and power on. Check voltages (AC) on before rectification on the B+. This will be related to the B+ fuse. Also check continuity through the fuse bofore all of this. Check AC voltage on heaters (pins 2 and 7 for octal tubes) this will be associated with the Mains fuses

 

[Scumback Speakers]

Those TE trannies were touchy. Gibson bought them in the late 90's, and I had one of the early Super Goldtones based on their design. That thing was in the shop 18 of it's 24 month warranty. When it failed the last time, Gibson sent me a new USA build head. That's been solid.

I got the first one fixed, put it back in the combo cab and parked it under a moving blanket.

IMO, those TE amps were pretty iffy. Good luck!

 

[rstites]

FYI, here's a schematic for the CL100 which I assume is the same except the power section. I don't see a pilot, just two LED's, but there's nothing power side of the power XFMR in the schematic.

What you describes sounds to me like the original fuse stopped something from burning. When you replaced it, that little time allowed that part to burn and now you're getting nothing. I'd pull tubes, power on and start tracing voltage through the amp. The schematic has reference voltages.

 

[skullfxr]

Those TE trannies were touchy. Gibson bought them in the late 90's, and I had one of the early Super Goldtones based on their design. That thing was in the shop 18 of it's 24 month warranty. When it failed the last time, Gibson sent me a new USA build head. That's been solid.

I got the first one fixed, put it back in the combo cab and parked it under a moving blanket.

IMO, those TE amps were pretty iffy. Good luck!

. This is a black tolex made in the UK. I thought that predated Gibson's takeover.

 

[skullfxr]

I should say that I can't even get it to even blow a fuse.

Since the pilot lights could be either 120v or 6v, you need to decide and conquer. Remove all tubes and power on. Check voltages (AC) on before rectification on the B+. This will be related to the B+ fuse. Also check continuity through the fuse bofore all of this. Check AC voltage on heaters (pins 2 and 7 for octal tubes) this will be associated with the Mains fuses

Thank you much, will do. Gimme a day or two.

 

[skullfxr]

FYI, here's a schematic for the CL100 which I assume is the same except the power section. I don't see a pilot, just two LED's, but there's nothing power side of the power XFMR in the schematic.

What you describes sounds to me like the original fuse stopped something from burning. When you replaced it, that little time allowed that part to burn and now you're getting nothing. I'd pull tubes, power on and start tracing voltage through the amp. The schematic has reference voltages.

Thanks for the schematic.

 

[Scumback Speakers]

. This is a black tolex made in the UK. I thought that predated Gibson's takeover.

Maybe so, but the TE designs weren't as robust as the ones Gibson made. I'm basing that experience on a UK model vs the Gibson USA version that replaced it.

 

[skullfxr]

. This is a black tolex made in the UK. I thought that predated Gibson's takeover.

Maybe so, but the TE designs weren't as robust as the ones Gibson made. I'm basing that experience on a UK model vs the Gibson USA version that replaced it.

Good to know.

As far as research tells me some of the rectification diodes like to blow. I will check that. I think I have some on hand.

 

[skullfxr]

The rectification diodes look toasted AF. been really busy, replacing those first, as i am pretty sure that I have some around.

 

[glip22]

If there was a smell, the first thing to do is pull the tubes and check your screen resistors. You never want to just replace the fuse if you smelled shit. My bet is a bad tube cooked a screen resistor. Replace resistor and new tubes, you are back in business.
Replace fuse and try again you do more damage.

 

[skullfxr]

If there was a smell, the first thing to do is pull the tubes and check your screen resistors. You never want to just replace the fuse if you smelled shit. My bet is a bad tube cooked a screen resistor. Replace resistor and new tubes, you are back in business.
Replace fuse and try again you do more damage.

I won't throw another fuse in, don't worry. I do know better. Should have known better.

I can tell that the rectifier diodes got cooked, which this amp is known for its pretty much disassembled just gotta do it.

I will check the screen resistors. Too when I go through it.

I am pretty sure they are fine, as the board shows no signs of cooking there. I am betting on the diodes, but will give it a look through.

 

[glip22]

If there was a smell, the first thing to do is pull the tubes and check your screen resistors. You never want to just replace the fuse if you smelled shit. My bet is a bad tube cooked a screen resistor. Replace resistor and new tubes, you are back in business.
Replace fuse and try again you do more damage.

I won't throw another fuse in, don't worry. I do know better. Should have known better.

I can tell that the rectifier diodes got cooked, which this amp is known for its pretty much disassembled just gotta do it.

I will check the screen resistors. Too when I go through it.

I am pretty sure they are fine, as the board shows no signs of cooking there. I am betting on the diodes, but will give it a look through.

Yeah. You know your stuff. Just have to dive in at this point. Always seems a little daunting but once you start it always seems much easier when you get a handle on what needs to be done.