Soldering help

  • Thread starter Thread starter bstaley
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bstaley

bstaley

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I searched the forums and couldn't find the right info. I'm going to start building my own cables and I haven't soldered in a while. I'm stopping at Home Depot on the way home today to pick up what I need. I still have a Weller 40w iron from years ago. Is that a good iron or should I get the 25w iron? What is the best solder to buy. leaded or non leaded? What about the tin mix ratio? 60/40? What do I use for flux? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks.

PS. My only intention is building instrument and mic cables. I won't be doing anything more involved that that.
 
http://recording.org/recording-studio-i ... ricks.html

That Weller should be fine for what you are doing. I use .032" 60/40 Rosin Cored solder because I do a lot of PCB work, but you can use a slightly thicker (but not plumbers solder thick) solder. Just make sure that it is Rosin Cored as that helps to keep it flowing so that it does not congeal and become difficult to work with. I use Lenox Tinning Flux, just some stuff from the Home Department store, nothing fancy. Just make sure that you generously flux and tin the wire ends prior to joining them with the jack and insulate them afterward or they could short and damage something.
 
Hey Bill,

Get some Kester 60/40 with rosin core, that stuff solders nicely. Also the 40watt iron will be fine, just don't sit on the solder joints for too long or you'll over heat it. You'll be fine :yes:
 
MrDan666":3txmibgq said:
Hey Bill,

Get some Kester 60/40 with rosin core, that stuff solders nicely. Also the 40watt iron will be fine, just don't sit on the solder joints for too long or you'll over heat it. You'll be fine :yes:
Click to expand...

+1
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I think I figured out why I'm having some troubles with some cables I made a few years back. For some reason, not sure why, I have been using "Silver solder" instead of rosin core solder. After reading some more about this it seems silver solder is NOT recommended for electronics work because after time it will corrode and the connection will fail. That would explain why the custom right-angle cable I made for my wireless failed at my gig this past weekend and I've got a box of cables I made at home labeled "needs resoldered".

I used to make my own cables years ago and got pissed because they wouldn't last very long. I gave up and started buying pre-made cables, but in addition to being expensive, sometimes I need them made to an exact length so I want to start doing it again myself. I know I was creating a good solder joint, but maybe the problem was using the wrong solder.
 
I remember why I was using silver solder now! Back when I was a young teen I used to race those little 1/24 scale slot cars at the hobby shops. I would frequently have to solder the chassis together and install new motors and the guys recommended to use silver solder because it's stronger than 60/40 when those little cars would smack into the wall at top speed. LOL. When I started soldering again a few years back I never gave it a second thought. I've been sitting here wondering why in the hell I would be using silver solder in the first place and now I remember.
 
In my line of work, (sound contractor/systems integrator) I've probably soldered tens of thousands of points to date. I use the Kester .031 rosin core solder (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/K ... 7-/21-1840) with a Weller WP-35. I've never used any kind of extra flux, and can't remember the last time I had a solder connection fail, including super tiny VGA connectors. Just sayin'.

$.02
 
I also realized, I am using acid flux! I'm a freaking idiot. No wonder I'm having troubles. Ok, 60/40 rosin core it is. Thanks for the help guys.
 
Bill

any thinner type light duty rosin core solder will work well enough, in the 60/40 range.

i use oatey no 5 solder paste (lead free)

im pretty sure i got all my stuff at radio shack for under 30 bux...including my 40/25 watt soldering station.

ive done pretty much all my wiring in my guitars, pedals, cords, etc with just this basic setup since pretty much like 1995. i've had this same 8 ounce roll of solder for at least that long too and it's no where near empty. i DID buy the big solder sucker, some de-sodering ribbon and some other shit, and rarely ended up using it...

these 3 things are what i've used most.

3772524_3365200_290.jpg


a2428268-152-Soldering%20Iron.jpg


electronics_solder.JPG


one tip i'd like to add, if you dont get solder with flux in it, make sure you flux your solder first, then heat it..it allows for more fluidity and quicker soldering. and you wont get "cold" joints.
flux is key when soldering electronics.


each person has their own way, obviously..like i said, this is what i've found to work most easily.
 
Make sure you use the non lead free solder. A lot easier to work with.
Praise the lord you don't have the ROHS rules in the states.
 
I swear by my Radio Shack 40W pencil tip $8 dollar iron. Works great for cables, and guitar electronics.

Every time I try to give my 25W iron another chance, i realize how much it sucks.
 
yeah, if you get that soldering station, be sure you get a few extra pointy pencil tip replacements. they're the screw on type.
 
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