Speaker mounting screws

[D-Rock]

I've researched and the advised size is 10-32 x 1 1/4.
I can only find 10-32 x 1.
They look to be long enough based on the other screws I've used and seen. Do I really need that extra 1/4 length? I think that would actually be too long.

 

[Scumback Speakers]

1" is usually 1/4" longer than what I use, but some cabs need them. If your baffle board is 3/4" thick, you'll need 1" long screws to meet your T-nuts with enough threads to make a decent grip.

If you have a 1/2" or 5/8" thick baffle board and Celestion/Eminence/Scumback style frames, the 3/4" usually works fine, 1" at the most.

Be sure not to overtighten the screws. Go to my site under the FAQ pull down menu for instructions if you need help.

 

[D-Rock]

Thanks Jim, I'm actually replacing all screws in one of my 4x12's because the V30's that came stock in it were all in fact overtightened and the frames all have varying bends in them at the frame holes.

I replaced the speakers and might be able to salvage two of them, but now want to go back in and replace all the screws with some quality stainless machine screws I picked up today. (I will also follow your tightening guide.)

I bought the 1' length, as that is what my memory told me was needed for this particular cab.
Now, the screws just tighten straight in to the baffle here, no t-nuts visible. Are they sunk inside or is the entry hole threaded and the screw grabs tight to that?

 

[Scumback Speakers]

There were a few different styles of T-nuts and mounting shanks. Sounds like you have the type where they're pounded into the wood with a small surface to grip in the baffle if you can't see them from the front side (or feel them).

Be very careful threading those when you put in your new screws, I'd suggest doing it by finger to make sure you don't cross thread them.

As for your old speakers...yep, I've seen that a lot as you can imagine.