Stupid question about FR springs

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phillybhatesme

phillybhatesme

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I just got a Kramer Nightswan that had 9s (possibly 10s) on it and I prefer 11s. So in an effort to counterbalance the new string tension, I was tightening the two claw screws all the way down before I purchased a set of new black FR springs (maybe I should have gotten red or green springs?).
When setting it up this morning, I had a tough time getting the bridge to lay parallel to the body without using four springs. Should I have added the 5th spring and played with the claw screws for symmetry? Perhaps I should have given the angled-spring method a bit more time, but it wasn't working for me.
Or is this ok?

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I got it tuned up like this and put the backplate on it. It plays great, but I'm curious about the symmetry. Thanks, RT - if this is too stupid of a question for y’all, I'll ask on TGP lol.

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I assume it is floating? I don't float my Floyd's and imo you could go with 3 springs instead of 4 by just adjusting your claw up more. When you use whammy bar is it too stiff? If it is then try 3 springs.
 
Floating, yeah.
I tried my best to get it set up with just the 3 black springs but was having difficulty even when adjusting the claw screws. This was my happy medium.
 
I wouldn't worry about it as long as nothing feels off and you got it level. It's mainly personal preference for how much resistance you want using the trem. I've had them with all 5, 4, 3, angled, etc... Just make sure the claw screws aren't too far out to avoid stripping the wood.
 
Not a stupid question at all and you are definitely on the right track. Here is what I have discovered - you can go with a softer spring pulled to greater tension (by tightening the claw) can get the trem plate to sit level / parallel to the body, or you can add additional springs with less trem claw tightening, or you can use fewer stiffer springs. Provided you have enough travel in the claw, either method can theoretically achieve a trem plate parallel to the body. But surprisingly, each method results in slightly different 'feel' to the bar. On paper (in theory) it would seem like the lbs of tension to make the trem sit level with the body should be a set number, and whether you get there with more tension on the trem claw, more springs, or fewer stiffer springs shouldn't matter, but I can feel a difference in the trem action. Nice, coated 'noiseless' springs in soft, medium and stiff from either Floyd or from FU are not prohibitively expensive and it is kind of nice to have an assortment to see what makes the trem sit where you want it and also provides the desired 'feel' of the arm. Its all trial and error!
 
Thanks guys

PDC said:
Not a stupid question at all and you are definitely on the right track. Here is what I have discovered - you can go with a softer spring pulled to greater tension (by tightening the claw) can get the trem plate to sit level / parallel to the body, or you can add additional springs with less trem claw tightening, or you can use fewer stiffer springs. Provided you have enough travel in the claw, either method can theoretically achieve a trem plate parallel to the body. But surprisingly, each method results in slightly different 'feel' to the bar. On paper (in theory) it would seem like the lbs of tension to make the trem sit level with the body should be a set number, and whether you get there with more tension on the trem claw, more springs, or fewer stiffer springs shouldn't matter, but I can feel a difference in the trem action. Nice, coated 'noiseless' springs in soft, medium and stiff from either Floyd or from FU are not prohibitively expensive and it is kind of nice to have an assortment to see what makes the trem sit where you want it and also provides the desired 'feel' of the arm. Its all trial and error!
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This makes sense. I was trying different configurations with just the 5 springs I had on hand. I wouldn't mind getting some stiffer springs eventually and go with 3. Or just play with different options.

But yeah, with these four in there, the claw positioned where it's positioned, it stays in tune and the bridge/trem plate is flat.
 
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Three or four springs is OK for me. Two is not enough, five is too stiff. Too many springs and flutter won't work. Too few and it's too wobbly. Leaving some room for the spring to contract/expand is nice for the trem action. Don't tighten the claw too close to the body. Try different configs to see what's best.
 
I've never really noticed a difference in tuning stability on angled vs straight or 3 4 or 5 but I did get a set of the high tension red spring for one of my 7s and they've been great on there. I do always stick some EMG pickup box foam in between my springs to cut down on the noise so I'm sure that impacts whammy feel but I don't really ever use the bar.
 
The red springs are shorter, so they would indeed work better. I had a similar issue recently.. Just going from .009's to .010's required screwing the claw screws in way more than I cared for, and went with the red shorter HD springs. Problem solved. Going forward, that's the one I'll go with as a spring upgrade.
 
napalmdeath said:
The red springs are shorter, so they would indeed work better. I had a similar issue recently.. Just going from .009's to .010's required screwing the claw screws in way more than I cared for, and went with the red shorter HD springs. Problem solved. Going forward, that's the one I'll go with as a spring upgrade.
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This is really good info. I might scoop a set of the reds. Before restringing this Nightswan, I did the same thing to a Brubaker (SSS kinda thing) and had to crank the claw screws basically all the way into the body.
 
phillybhatesme said:
This is really good info. I might scoop a set of the reds. Before restringing this Nightswan, I did the same thing to a Brubaker (SSS kinda thing) and had to crank the claw screws basically all the way into the body.
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They are 62.5mm long vs. the black being 67.5mm. That 5mm makes a big difference and gives you a lot more range.
 
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