vh4: 6l6 red plate?

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opiateofthemasses

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So I just threw in a fresh set of Ruby 6l6's yesterday, as well as a whole new set of pre's. Got them from Valve queen. everything was fine and dandy, I biased to about 65-66ma on the brown wire pair, and the blue was about 61-62.

I was just plucking around at low volume earlier when I started hearing hum, and got a volume loss. I looked over and the right 2 6l6's (looking from the front of the amp) were red plating. Started getting the burning smell so I hit the standby switch and they cooled down to normal. I re-checked the bias and it was the same as it was yesterday give or take 1ma. When I was checking the bias (standby off) I didn't get any unusual activity or anything and the tubes started acting normal again.

Anyone have any idea about what might have caused this? Again it was only the blue wire pair that red plated. I also lowered the bias down to 60-57. I made a video of the inside of the amp while I was doing this as well, but didn't see anything crazy...no blown fuses or anything melted or whatever.
 
2 questions
Did you switch the toggle switch over from EL34 to 6L6?
Isn't the ohms read in pairs of 35 mA rather than 60 something?
 
jonl":2agvoced said:
2 questions
Did you switch the toggle switch over from EL34 to 6L6?
Isn't the ohms read in pairs of 35 mA rather than 60 something?

Yea the switch is on 6l6....is it supposed to be 35ma for one pair?? For 6l6's?


Edit: Just found the bias runthrough again and here's what it says

Recommended current settings for pairs in a VH4:

5881: 50 mA
6L6: 60 to 70 mA
EL34 60 to 70 mA
6550, KT66, KT88: 80 mA


It's apparently only 35ma for a pair on the VH4s because of the output transformers. Makes sense :P
 
this is what I got going on right now....nothing crazy, except that one tube is a lot more blue than the others.

photo_zpsb3caa9b4.jpg
 
Shit man, I don't know then...
I'd check to make sure the tube socket clips aren't open to wide.
I would swap the tubes around to see if the problem follows the tubes or stays with the sockets
 
As Jonl said, please check the clamps inside the power tube sockets.

FIRST UNPLUG THE AMP !!!
 
Peter Diezel":1e6xrmqc said:
As Jonl said, please check the clamps inside the power tube sockets.

FIRST UNPLUG THE AMP !!!


Ill have a go at that then, but those little peckers are tricky to get to.
 
opiateofthemasses":q4fl27fp said:
Peter Diezel":q4fl27fp said:
As Jonl said, please check the clamps inside the power tube sockets.

FIRST UNPLUG THE AMP !!!


Ill have a go at that then, but those little peckers are tricky to get to.

Use a metal dental pick
 
Yes and spray a LITTLE BIT cleaner on the tube pins.

For the test move the power tubes slightly when the amp
is in running mode. There should be no noise.
 
Peter Diezel":1zbbsqxx said:
Yes and spray a LITTLE BIT cleaner on the tube pins.

For the test move the power tubes slightly when the amp
is in running mode. There should be no noise.


Well I don't have any cleaner on hand, but I did the test and got no noise a high volume. The tubes have been fine ever since that first issue....it's just really weird, 2 tubes red plate, then everything is back to normal with no issues.
 
Maybe it could have been a connection issue? The middle solder look a bit cracked? Just don't want this to happen during a show.
image_zps1504558a.jpg
 
Sorry,
I ment my local friend Bill and I had to solder down a joint on my amp.
So it's not a bad idea to secure the joint with a little solder like I did.
 
Ok that makes sense lol. I'm taking it to my tech on Tuesday to get the socket connections checked out.
 
jonl":262pleg9 said:
It's very easy to do...
It's free to do it yourself :rock:
http://billmaudio.com/wp/?page_id=171


Did that already, I was talking about the solder connections. I don't have an iron, or any soldering experience at the moment. I do plan on learning though, so I can do this crap myself. I just want to see if my "bad solder" theory is true.
 
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