What kind of pedalboard you guys using?

[richedie]

I am not a pro so I don't want anything too fancy or expensive, but practical and reliable, good quality would be nice. I am using a Furman SPB-8 board at the moment. I am eaither going to do the wood riser cutouts for my pedals in the back or upgrade to something like the SKB SP-55 which is angled and allows you to run the cables under the board. I want an all in one. Any tips?

 

[Szar]

Pedal Train boards are amazing. They come with flight cases, as well!

 

[Flump]

Pedal Train boards are amazing. They come with flight cases, as well!

They are great boards. I used the Pedal Train Pro for a while before I went with rack gear. I'd reccomend one to anybody.

 

[EWSEthan]

Pedal Train Pro. Kick ass.

 

[Szar]

Pedal Train Pro. Kick ass.

Hey, I noticed you run into a buffer right after your Wireless, why do you do this? Thinking of doing the same thing when I remake my pedal-board.

 

[EWSEthan]

Well I have a pass through box under my wireless which I use sometimes when I just use a cable for the gig (and also in case my wireless were to crap out though it hasnt happened yet).

I just always run first into the Axess BS2 so I keep my high end. With a cable its a necessity. Whether it is necessary for the wireless I dont know, but it was there from before when I always used a cable. I figured it cant hurt to also put the wireless signal through it since it still sounded good and it simplifies my board. Now, if I want to use a cable for a show, I just swap the output from the wireless to be the output of my pass through box and plug a cable into the input of the box.

 

[richedie]

Pedaltrain looks sweet but wouldn't the board and power supply be a hell of a lot more money than an all in one board like the SKB? I mean I have had no issues in 4 years with my little Furman. I am not a pro guys! Just a dude who jams with friends and the occasional gig.

If you use the Voodoo Pedal power - where do you plug in wall warts?

 

[Mercury25]

Pedal Train Pro. Kick ass.

Hey Matt,
What are you using for a power supply? I couldn't tell if you had a PP2+ under the board...

 

[mboogman]

I have a supplier for extruded aluminum, so I build my own. I've built two for myself, and four for others to date. If your willing to spend the time, and have the tools, it saves a LOT of money. I think supplies for my latest board only ran me around $75. It's flight case tough, and looks professional as well, and completely built to my specs.

 

[Gino]

I am not a pro so I don't want anything too fancy or expensive, but practical and reliable, good quality would be nice. I am using a Furman SPB-8 board at the moment. I am eaither going to do the wood riser cutouts for my pedals in the back or upgrade to something like the SKB SP-55 which is angled and allows you to run the cables under the board. I want an all in one. Any tips?

Furman SPB-8C

I'm not a pro but I gig regularly and this works well for me.

 

[richedie]

I am not a pro so I don't want anything too fancy or expensive, but practical and reliable, good quality would be nice. I am using a Furman SPB-8 board at the moment. I am eaither going to do the wood riser cutouts for my pedals in the back or upgrade to something like the SKB SP-55 which is angled and allows you to run the cables under the board. I want an all in one. Any tips?

Furman SPB-8C

I'm not a pro but I gig regularly and this works well for me.

Thanks man, but if I gig more I am going to want something with an angled board. I might just use wooden risers on my current board and call it a day.

 

[EWSEthan]

Hey Matt,
What are you using for a power supply? I couldn't tell if you had a PP2+ under the board...

Yep, there is a PP2+ under there. Thats one of the things I just love about pedal train. The PP2+ can take up some valuable board real estate (though I have an excess of space on this particular board but the regular pedaltrain was a TAD too small) so having it under is a big plus IMO. That and I have gotten used to needing an angled board now. My last home built one was flat and it really is a big difference.

 

[Klark]

Do you have capability to build your own?? Here's a copy & paste of a post I did on the Liquid-Foot forum, right after I finished building my pedalboard..


After weeks of contemplation, I finally executed the plan. I bought a piece of birdseye maple from Woodcraft, which has a pretty awesome selection if you're looking for something nice. It started out as a 7/8" thick plank, which we cut down and plained down to 5/8", practically wearing out a set of plainer blades in the process. Maple is some hard stuff. The 6.2 board feet plank cost about $56 from Woodcraft. The bottom is just a piece of 1/2" baltic birch.

The interface box is one of those gray 4"x4"x2" outdoor boxes from Home Depot, which I dyed with black Rit dye. Boiling it in the dye took hours but it came out a nice jet black. The box has a Neutrik Powercon input, Neutrik Ethercon for the MIDI, and an in & out 1/4". I found out later that putting the 1/4" connectors right near the AC wasn't a good idea - First time I plugged everything in it was buzzing loud as hell. So I cut some think sheet metal sheilding for around the 1/4" connectors, then grounded the shielding - Buzz eliminated. Coming from the side of the box is three small black plastic Heyco fittings. One has AC going to the duplex receptacle, one has MIDI, and the 3rd is both the send & return which go to and from the wah/tuner.

The switch on the top above the green display is the system mute/tune. I couldn't eat up an instant access switch solely for a mute button, but luckily the Liquid-Foot has 4 exp jacks so exp1 is delay mix, exp2 is tap-tempo, exp3 is the mute/tune. The switch on top is currently on there with just a stainless washer, but I'll be replacing with a glow-in-the-dark washer once the material arrives and I machine it out. The Korg DT-10B is inline all the time, I like what the buffer does for both the feel and tone.

The Boss FV-300L is for delay mix. I didn't want to put another footswitch in the maple top for tap-tempo so I got to thinking about the space inside of the pedal. Turns out, there's room in the corner for a Carlingswitch brand switch only. No other brand would fit. As you can see, you have to grind out a corner of the rocker pedal, but it works great, you don't even notice the corner is missing. When the pedal is all the way back, the tap switch sticks up enough to tap the tempo in. When you start to rock the pedal forward, you still have enough room to retap the temp if necessary.

All in all, I'm very happy and I can tell I'll be using this rig for quite some time.

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_1096.jpg

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_1084.jpg

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_1093.jpg

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_0832.jpg

 

[Jeff Hilligan]

Do you have capability to build your own?? Here's a copy & paste of a post I did on the Liquid-Foot forum, right after I finished building my pedalboard..


After weeks of contemplation, I finally executed the plan. I bought a piece of birdseye maple from Woodcraft, which has a pretty awesome selection if you're looking for something nice. It started out as a 7/8" thick plank, which we cut down and plained down to 5/8", practically wearing out a set of plainer blades in the process. Maple is some hard stuff. The 6.2 board feet plank cost about $56 from Woodcraft. The bottom is just a piece of 1/2" baltic birch.

The interface box is one of those gray 4"x4"x2" outdoor boxes from Home Depot, which I dyed with black Rit dye. Boiling it in the dye took hours but it came out a nice jet black. The box has a Neutrik Powercon input, Neutrik Ethercon for the MIDI, and an in & out 1/4". I found out later that putting the 1/4" connectors right near the AC wasn't a good idea - First time I plugged everything in it was buzzing loud as hell. So I cut some think sheet metal sheilding for around the 1/4" connectors, then grounded the shielding - Buzz eliminated. Coming from the side of the box is three small black plastic Heyco fittings. One has AC going to the duplex receptacle, one has MIDI, and the 3rd is both the send & return which go to and from the wah/tuner.

The switch on the top above the green display is the system mute/tune. I couldn't eat up an instant access switch solely for a mute button, but luckily the Liquid-Foot has 4 exp jacks so exp1 is delay mix, exp2 is tap-tempo, exp3 is the mute/tune. The switch on top is currently on there with just a stainless washer, but I'll be replacing with a glow-in-the-dark washer once the material arrives and I machine it out. The Korg DT-10B is inline all the time, I like what the buffer does for both the feel and tone.

The Boss FV-300L is for delay mix. I didn't want to put another footswitch in the maple top for tap-tempo so I got to thinking about the space inside of the pedal. Turns out, there's room in the corner for a Carlingswitch brand switch only. No other brand would fit. As you can see, you have to grind out a corner of the rocker pedal, but it works great, you don't even notice the corner is missing. When the pedal is all the way back, the tap switch sticks up enough to tap the tempo in. When you start to rock the pedal forward, you still have enough room to retap the temp if necessary.

All in all, I'm very happy and I can tell I'll be using this rig for quite some time.

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_1096.jpg

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_1084.jpg

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_1093.jpg

http://www.alanproaudio.com/guitar/imag ... G_0832.jpg

Very cool!

 

[rsm]

Not angled, but I was thinking of making my own out of something like this:
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=385& 24" x 48" for $92. I read a post on another forum about this source. All I need is a 12 x 18, and its $14 at 1/2" thick!

They have other products if you look around a bit. Cost effective, and durable. and dishwasher safe too!

 

[richedie]

Hey Matt,
What are you using for a power supply? I couldn't tell if you had a PP2+ under the board...

Yep, there is a PP2+ under there. Thats one of the things I just love about pedal train. The PP2+ can take up some valuable board real estate (though I have an excess of space on this particular board but the regular pedaltrain was a TAD too small) so having it under is a big plus IMO. That and I have gotten used to needing an angled board now. My last home built one was flat and it really is a big difference.

I guess it is personal preference. I asked my friend who gigs twice a week and he said the angle board of the Pedaltrain was no big deal to him over my Furman. In fact, I think it is best to just use risers and save space. I don't like that the Voodoo PP2+ does not take standard plugs, only AC adapters!

 

[richedie]

Nick, if you picked up a Boss TU-2 tuner, you could ditch the Axess piece. The Boss pedals have a nice buffer.

 

[aeroic]

Nick, if you picked up a Boss TU-2 tuner, you could ditch the Axess piece. The Boss pedals have a nice buffer.

There's no way in hell I'd ditch my Axess BS2 for a TU-2 tuner. The Axess unit is awesome, and no way I'd believe a TU-2 would be "as good" as Mario's gear. For me, there's no way I'd give up my peterson tuner. By far and away the most accurate tuner I've ever owned.

Eric

 

[aeroic]

Hey Matt,
What are you using for a power supply? I couldn't tell if you had a PP2+ under the board...

Yep, there is a PP2+ under there. Thats one of the things I just love about pedal train. The PP2+ can take up some valuable board real estate (though I have an excess of space on this particular board but the regular pedaltrain was a TAD too small) so having it under is a big plus IMO. That and I have gotten used to needing an angled board now. My last home built one was flat and it really is a big difference.

I guess it is personal preference. I asked my friend who gigs twice a week and he said the angle board of the Pedaltrain was no big deal to him over my Furman. In fact, I think it is best to just use risers and save space. I don't like that the Voodoo PP2+ does not take standard plugs, only AC adapters!

Why would you want standard 3-prong plugs? That makes no sense. Then it would be HUGE. The pedal power was meant to get rid of all of the wall warts on a rig. I've been using the Voodoo Labs Pedal Power for over 5-6 years. I am powering all of my pedal board with it. If it's good enough for every pro rig, then it's good enough / small enough for me. Your comment makes no sense to me. I've not found very many pedals (minus the Whammy) that it won't power.

I've had flat boards and angled boards. I definitely prefer my angeled trailer trash pedal board. Having risers is cool too though, but I think the way Rooster @ Trailer Trash does his stuff is the best designs out there.

Eric

 

[Gino]

The Boss pedals have a nice buffer.

Have you ever put 10 BOSS pedals in line to see how nicely your signal is being buffered?