You guys think is a problem??? Cracked Cab!!

[Kiteboarder]

I recently bought a Rebel 112 Cab from one of the guys here. I won't mention any names, because there's a good chance the person didn't know of the problem when he sold it.

I took a peek inside the cab today for the first time. I noticed there is a crack on the panel that holds the speaker. The crack is near the bottom half and goes from side to side horizontally. I'm looking at the crack, slightly from the side, due the access available thanks to the port. But I can't tell if the crack goes through all of the plies of the plywood, or just the inside one. Still, I'm quite concerned.

I'm attaching one photo, but to see bigger ones please click the links below. I appreciate you guys' thoughts on this.

-Danny

Links to photos:

http://www.dannycruz.com/cab_112/cab_1.jpg
http://www.dannycruz.com/cab_112/cab_2.jpg
http://www.dannycruz.com/cab_112/cab_3.jpg
http://www.dannycruz.com/cab_112/cab_4.jpg
http://www.dannycruz.com/cab_112/cab_5.jpg

 

[TheGrooveking]

Well from the paint missing on the cracked areas it's evidence that the speaker baffle has seen some type of impact. I would at least remove the speaker or grill and inspect the speaker surround/cone for damage. If the speaker baffle is screwed in you may be able to make one or get one made.

Was there any signs of damage on the shipping carton?

TheGrooveking

 

[Kiteboarder]

The shipping carton looked fine and the thing was very well packed. The cab sounds good, although I haven't had a chance to play it loud yet. But I'm afraid it'll vibrate and maybe rattle at loud volumes. But more than that, it might completely break due to the weight of the speaker over time.

 

[jmgman69]

I would say pull the speaker and give that a look!!As long as the speaker isn't mangled,it should be a n easy fix!!

 

[Kiteboarder]

I probably have to recut a new baffle and replace the old one right? It must have broken during shipping. Still, I think the amount of material in between the speaker cut-out and the port cut-out should maybe be more. It might support the weight of the speaker better.

 

[Scumback Speakers]

I probably have to recut a new baffle and replace the old one right? It must have broken during shipping. Still, I think the amount of material in between the speaker cut-out and the port cut-out should maybe be more. It might support the weight of the speaker better.

That baffle MIGHT be fixed if taken out, glued and clamped properly. But it definitely got hit with a front impact, through the cloth judging by the location. Better check the cloth for tell tale signs of impact, but looks like it happened after the speaker was installed to me. One reason I don't use anything but baltic birch plywood...more plies & tougher than the 7 ply type.

 

[jmgman69]

I probably have to recut a new baffle and replace the old one right? It must have broken during shipping. Still, I think the amount of material in between the speaker cut-out and the port cut-out should maybe be more. It might support the weight of the speaker better.

That baffle MIGHT be fixed if taken out, glued and clamped properly. But it definitely got hit with a front impact, through the cloth judging by the location. Better check the cloth for tell tale signs of impact, but looks like it happened after the speaker was installed to me. One reason I don't use anything but baltic birch plywood...more plies & tougher than the 7 ply type.

 

[dfrattaroli]

That can be fixed. I'd remove the speaker and grill cloth. Then take some yellow wood glue and thin it with some water. Say 3 parts glue to 1 part water. You want it to run a little more than it does straight of the bottle. If you can, get a syringe or plunger with no needle attached. Fill it with glue and inject the glue into the ply wood. Be sloppy. Get it all over the place. It should be dripping. Cover both sides of the baffle with wax paper. Get 2 pieces of plywood or MDF and put the baffle in between. You now have a sandwich: MDF, wax paper, baffle, wax paper, MDF. Clamp the crap out of all around. Let it dry over night. Remove the clamps, MDF and wax paper. Take an orbital sander to both faces to knock down any glue residue. Spray paint both sides flat black. Reinstall and forget we ever had this conversation.

Unless of course you have access to nice 1/2" thick piece of Baltic Birch ply. Then you can use the existing baffle as a template. But I don't think it's necessary. I've built some cabs in the past that I've sold to happy users. Check them out at http://www.dafguitars.com. Just so you don't think I pulled this out of my bung-hole.

Dave

 

[Kiteboarder]

That can be fixed. I'd remove the speaker and grill cloth. Then take some yellow wood glue and thin it with some water. Say 3 parts glue to 1 part water. You want it to run a little more than it does straight of the bottle. If you can, get a syringe or plunger with no needle attached. Fill it with glue and inject the glue into the ply wood. Be sloppy. Get it all over the place. It should be dripping. Cover both sides of the baffle with wax paper. Get 2 pieces of plywood or MDF and put the baffle in between. You now have a sandwich: MDF, wax paper, baffle, wax paper, MDF. Clamp the crap out of all around. Let it dry over night. Remove the clamps, MDF and wax paper. Take an orbital sander to both faces to knock down any glue residue. Spray paint both sides flat black. Reinstall and forget we ever had this conversation.

Unless of course you have access to nice 1/2" thick piece of Baltic Birch ply. Then you can use the existing baffle as a template. But I don't think it's necessary. I've built some cabs in the past that I've sold to happy users. Check them out at http://www.dafguitars.com. Just so you don't think I pulled this out of my bung-hole.

Dave

Thanks for the detailed info Dave. I have some experience woodworking and this all makes great sense. I would actually, recut a new baffle if I had access to a wood shop right now. But I don't. So, the repair is probably my best bet. My main concern was how it would affect the cab tonally, but I doubt it would be noticeable.

 

[dfrattaroli]

Thanks for the detailed info Dave. I have some experience woodworking and this all makes great sense. I would actually, recut a new baffle if I had access to a wood shop right now. But I don't. So, the repair is probably my best bet. My main concern was how it would affect the cab tonally, but I doubt it would be noticeable.

No problem at all. If you were local, I'd cut you a new one myself. The repair will be literally, as good as new. If you flood the break with the thinned glue, you'll likely fill some voids as well.

Dave

 

[Kiteboarder]

That can be fixed. I'd remove the speaker and grill cloth. Then take some yellow wood glue and thin it with some water. Say 3 parts glue to 1 part water. You want it to run a little more than it does straight of the bottle. If you can, get a syringe or plunger with no needle attached. Fill it with glue and inject the glue into the ply wood. Be sloppy. Get it all over the place. It should be dripping. Cover both sides of the baffle with wax paper. Get 2 pieces of plywood or MDF and put the baffle in between. You now have a sandwich: MDF, wax paper, baffle, wax paper, MDF. Clamp the crap out of all around. Let it dry over night. Remove the clamps, MDF and wax paper. Take an orbital sander to both faces to knock down any glue residue. Spray paint both sides flat black. Reinstall and forget we ever had this conversation.

Unless of course you have access to nice 1/2" thick piece of Baltic Birch ply. Then you can use the existing baffle as a template. But I don't think it's necessary. I've built some cabs in the past that I've sold to happy users. Check them out at http://www.dafguitars.com. Just so you don't think I pulled this out of my bung-hole.

Dave

Man, I took at look at all the pics you have on your site! Very good work!! Amazing I must say! The guitar work is incredible. And I'm amazed with the cabs too.

I'm thinking about recovering my Lonestar. Actually there's more too it. I have the 2x12 combo version and it is horrendously heavy. I just bought an original empty head cabinet off eBay. I'm going to stick the amp into the head cabinet and break the setup into a separate head and cab. The head is that blue tolex/silver grill that Mesa offers. I kinda like that color, but at the same time it makes me want to puke. I'd be much happier with a red main, cream face and cocoa grill. Sort of like this: http://www.rockshop.co.nz/04/web_specia ... XFCTCO.jpg

I obviously need to get the cab for it too. I have my eyes open for 2x12 Mesa Lonestar cabs on eBay, (any color) but I would also consider having one made.

Sorry for all the Mesa talk on the Eggie forum. Still, the topic in place remains. It's just that I love my Egnaters just as much as I my Mesa. I'm sure that's forgiveable!

I'm a bit bummed about the broken baffle. But not too much. I know it's a relatively easy fix. Plus, it's not a $600 cabinet.