TOURMASTER 4100 HEAD SCHEMATIC

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anybody have a schematic for a tourmaster head?..i did manage to find one but with no values (useless).I really don't want to spend $$$ on something I can fix myself (I have mechanical/electrical knowledge and know ohm's law) but can not find a schematic..
UPDATE:well I managed to get a schematic with values no thanks to egnater and fixed the head myself.after emailing egnater and getting no response after a few weeks,it is clear that egnater could give 2 shits about customer service and as far as keeping schematics "locked down" could possibly be in violation of the "freedom of information" act (only exemption I could maybe stomach would be exemption #4,which is "trade secrets" but these amps are so undependable who the hell would want to copy it)…..anyway amp head is fixed....will never use it nor can I sell it to anyone due to its unreliability.that just wouldn't be fair...….to anyone who still owns/uses one of these bricks.i wish you luck if it ever goes down (which it will) because if you reach out to egnater you will have a better chance of getting in touch with jimmy Hoffa......
 
what went wrong with it?

Yep, they have some control issues for sure...that output tranny first version was one of the issues, mine crapped out and they sent me a new tranny as it was still under warranty which i installed myself.

the reverb quit working on mine, i replaced (with a LOT of hassle getting one from nate at egnater) the reverb tranny and it quit working again

now channel four quit working like...2 years ago. i put the amp in the corner and havent even looked at it since..its a shame..the design is killer, the tones are too. it makes me sick, as i remember the exact day i traded for it.

The shoddy parts and workmanship from that factory are sub par. i cant imagine bruce is happy with this.
I dont even play mine anymore...and i traded a killer amp for it...which i'd love to have back.

I'd bet i wouldnt even be able to sell my combo for $500.
 
caps...as far as egnater being happy/not happy...could care less.during my research for schematics I found out how many unhappy people there are out there with the amps period.read about one poor guy who couldn't get 1 good one straight out of the box..the guy had to go through 5 brand new ones to finally get one that worked and that one blew up 7 months later.he also ended up on "pay no mind" by egnater inc. trying to get it fixed and just ended up using it for a bookend.
don't get me wrong,anything electronic and electronics in general can have issues but the support,lack of info released to the general public is a BIG issue..
 
I have the schematics available here;

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1N9M_iu6iFJZFJsaWZBdjMwU28

Disregard the footswitch section. Much of it is based on an early MIDI idea which was dumped in favor of the (cheaper) present system.

Dead channels can be attributed to a number of factors, namely (I've encountered the following personally);

- Defective channel volume pot.
- Poor/broken solder joints between pots and boards.
- Defective optoisolator (H11F1) for that channel (or for the reverb).

The pots are not of the best quality, and I've already had one volume pot simply ground out, killing the channel outright, and one contour pot do the same.

Another problem is poor pot alignment at time of assembly. When the board assemblies are loaded into the chassis, and the pot nuts tightened, the misalignment stresses all the solder joints. Over time, the joints crack, thus causing pots to no longer work. The only cure for this is to remove the assemblies, mount them to a jig, and reflow all the solder joints. Reflowing ALL the component solder joints while you're there is a good idea as well.

Transformer protection is not sufficient. Two points have to be addressed when replacing the transformer; adding a thermistor to slow the in rush current to the transfo at switch on, and the caps on the power board.

A suitably sized thermistor helps slow down the sudden in rush of current (especially after the amp has been sitting for a while and all the caps are empty), and helps the caps and transfo come up to voltage without a nasty spike. If you've ever experienced the fuse blowing after a long rest period, a thermistor will also solve this.

The caps on the power board are absolute garbage. The only thing that can be done is removal of the board, strip all the electros, and repopulate with quality caps. Upping the voltages on all the caps helps too. All should be rated for 105 degrees, goes without saying.

My Tourmaster is an early model combo chassis that I picked up cheap on Ebay 3 years ago. The transfo was fried, and after much back and forth with Egnater, I managed to get them to sell me a new one. It still needed much work thereafter (for all the reasons I listed above), but since then, has worked flawlessly. I rehoused the chassis as a head, and tubed it with a custom tube set from Doug's Tubes. Did the gain mod as well. Even made a MIDI channel switcher using a Highly Liquid MSA-R board. It is my best amp... but I had to throw time and money at it with a fire hose to get it right and reliable. Amazing that the company is still around, a fiasco like this would have put most out of business.

Oh yeah... and you might want to check out the Classic/Modern toggles too. I had two (can't remember which at the moment) that were installed upside down at the factory.

Did I forget anything? :confused:
 
Hi
Sorry for my English but I am native German and live near Stuttgart.
I got an egnater 4100 head with SN: TM4100 - 1109 1041 M

This Tourmaster head has a problem in Channel 1 and 2.(clean channel)
(Cannel 1 and 2 are the same HW indeed but with switches for the sound.)
Either some Guitar is pugged is or nothing is plugged in,
I have a sizzle and crackle and some noise in this channel.
Preamptubes are already swapped/canged but the problem is still
to hear. So I suggest the anode resistors could be the reason?

In the schematic there where 2x 12AX7 tubes with 3x 100 kOhm (R4;5;16)
and one is 47kOhm (R38) So does somebody know, if this Resistors are
responsible for the noise in Channel 1/2.
Or are some (coupling / elkos) caps defektive? Any recommendation?
Some experience here available? Is this bug known here?

Channel 3 and 4 are ok and quit as we want to have it.
The problem appears only on channel 1/2.

Please help.
Best regards from Stuttgart
drstrange
 
digi2t said:
I have the schematics available here;

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1N9M_iu6iFJZFJsaWZBdjMwU28

Disregard the footswitch section. Much of it is based on an early MIDI idea which was dumped in favor of the (cheaper) present system.

Dead channels can be attributed to a number of factors, namely (I've encountered the following personally);

- Defective channel volume pot.
- Poor/broken solder joints between pots and boards.
- Defective optoisolator (H11F1) for that channel (or for the reverb).

The pots are not of the best quality, and I've already had one volume pot simply ground out, killing the channel outright, and one contour pot do the same.

Another problem is poor pot alignment at time of assembly. When the board assemblies are loaded into the chassis, and the pot nuts tightened, the misalignment stresses all the solder joints. Over time, the joints crack, thus causing pots to no longer work. The only cure for this is to remove the assemblies, mount them to a jig, and reflow all the solder joints. Reflowing ALL the component solder joints while you're there is a good idea as well.

Transformer protection is not sufficient. Two points have to be addressed when replacing the transformer; adding a thermistor to slow the in rush current to the transfo at switch on, and the caps on the power board.

A suitably sized thermistor helps slow down the sudden in rush of current (especially after the amp has been sitting for a while and all the caps are empty), and helps the caps and transfo come up to voltage without a nasty spike. If you've ever experienced the fuse blowing after a long rest period, a thermistor will also solve this.

The caps on the power board are absolute garbage. The only thing that can be done is removal of the board, strip all the electros, and repopulate with quality caps. Upping the voltages on all the caps helps too. All should be rated for 105 degrees, goes without saying.

My Tourmaster is an early model combo chassis that I picked up cheap on Ebay 3 years ago. The transfo was fried, and after much back and forth with Egnater, I managed to get them to sell me a new one. It still needed much work thereafter (for all the reasons I listed above), but since then, has worked flawlessly. I rehoused the chassis as a head, and tubed it with a custom tube set from Doug's Tubes. Did the gain mod as well. Even made a MIDI channel switcher using a Highly Liquid MSA-R board. It is my best amp... but I had to throw time and money at it with a fire hose to get it right and reliable. Amazing that the company is still around, a fiasco like this would have put most out of business.

Oh yeah... and you might want to check out the Classic/Modern toggles too. I had two (can't remember which at the moment) that were installed upside down at the factory.

Did I forget anything? :confused:
Click to expand...
Please could you send me the schematics? I would very much appreciate it. Thank you. Jose Ramon. My email is : jotaerre3@hotmail.com
 
Got a Tourmaster 4100 in with the reverb always on, pot does nothing, so I think the pot is shorted. Problem is that pot values are not listed on the pots. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
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