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Yeah, don't know how many people realize it, but just as there are two different places where Egnater amps are manufactured (Detroit vs. China), there are different customer support lines for each. I've had excellent support on all of my USA-made Egnater amps over the past 5 years. Perhaps I...

Yeah, I've found 'em to be pretty comparable over time... I just did the opposite of rlord... switched from a pair of MOD50's to a rack rig with an RT2/50. Mostly 'cause I figured it was easier to haul a slightly bigger rack than two heads plus a smaller rack. But hey, goes to show that all...

Have been working on a stereo modular rig and noticed I was getting some strange phasing when running certain modules in parallel... that prompted me to fire up Sonar and do a little "science project". Basically I recorded a dry guitar track into Sonar then re-amped it into every module...

Quick question... is it safe to use KT66, KT77, KT88 tubes in Egnater modular amps (particularly a MOD50)? If so, anybody know what the bias range should be? Thanks! --B

I'd love to see a hot-rodded AC15 or AC30! Or maybe a hot-rodded bassman. As long as it's hot-rodded, I'm game. (Still rocking the JTM45 from the first amp seminar!) --B

This is a good tip... only watch out is that with some amps / pedals there may be a phasing issue when running boosts in the parallel loop, so you may actually end up with more tone suck than boost. --B

Yeah, I've owned a couple RT2/50's over the years (my favorite power amp of all time) and neither of them have operated in that fashion... sounds like something is funky with the amp. --B

No, it's more of a rustling sound... imagine the noise that a scratchy pot makes, except that I'm not actually turning any pots. --B

Good suggestion... gave that a shot, but it didn't make any difference. :( Seems that the only thing that stops the rustling is setting the bright switch to "neutral". --B

Oops... probably should've mentioned... it's a dual VX... side A is misbehaving, can't tell if side B is currently because I only have an RM22 around. --B

Looking for ideas... my VX module makes scratchy noises, but only when the bright switch is in the "1" or "2" position. Tried swapping tubes and it didn't help. Any thoughts? --B

Love that goldtop DGT! --B

I almost went with the "just split the guitar signal and run the M4's in parallel through a stereo power amp" answer. :) Nobody ever accused me of keeping things simple. --B

You would need some sort of switching device to do this... a device with multiple loops is probably optimal though you could fake it by feeding multiple M4's with the guitar signal (buffered, hopefully) and feeding the M4 outputs to an A/B switch to a power amp. --B

If you're on a budget Behringer makes a rip-off version of the H&K box... believe it's called the Ultra-G. Basically it's a direct box with built in cabinet simulation. --B

BTW, I don't know if the Egnater modules universally sound "better" or they just sound "different" than the Randall modules. I prefer the Egnaters because I play lower gain stuff (southern rock, country) and I think the Egnater modules work best for me for that purpose; but I know plenty of...

I've used Egnater modules in Randall MTS amps over the years... when using a dual-channel module in an amp designed for single-channel modules, you can only use channel A. So in an RM100c, you'd still only need a 3-button footswitch. --B

Cool... glad to hear it's working for ya! --B

The Rocktron MIDIMate is a good one to check out... I've owned a couple of 'em over the years... pretty durable, relatively easy to program, and pretty high on the buttons-to-dollars ratio. --B

Cool... I've always used the EbTech LLS as a last resort, but definitely noticed that it was a tone sucker. This sounds like a box worth checking out. --B