RJF":vpesimfc said:
The bass is also supposed to hold together better in a properly built front load, like the uberkab, Diezel, VHT, etc.
I'm gonna personally leave the Uberkab off of this list when it comes to "properly built front loaded" cabs. Bogners IMO are moderately built rear loaded cabs, and the Uberkab simply mounts the speakers from the front instead of the rear. If I'm not mistaken, the whole point of a front loaded cab is to make sure the cab is completely air tight, and most of the sound is coming directly from the speakers. In a Marshall like cab (which Bogner copies, but uses slightly thicker birch ply) the back is screwed on, and not completely air tight. Also, VHT/Fryette uses MDF for the baffle that the speakers are mounted on which is much more dense than plywood.
It's funny that everyone dogs Marshall for replacing the old plywood backs on their cabs with MDF, when MDF is actually preferred over plywood when it comes to installed sound. The whole reason behind using plywood instead of MDF is to reduce weight, and the fact that plywood is tougher when it gets banged around than MDF is. Even Bogner (afaik anywho) puts fiberglass or whatever it is that they put in pa speakers on the back panel to warm up the sound some. If they just used MDF for rear panels and baffles, they prolly wouldn't have to do this.
IMO if you want a tight, puncy, ballsy cab, then you need to look to VHT/Frette for a Fatbottom first, Deliverance next, then Hiwatt, and lastly Orange. All of those cabs are built like tanks, and are the friggin' shizznit when it comes to 16 ohm cabs. Diezel may be good as well, but I've never been in the presence of one. Also, screw 8 ohm cabs like Mesa puts out. IMO they use 8 ohm cabs in place of solid/heavy construction. 8ohms handles low end better without farting out, but it's not as puncy as 16ohms. It's difficult however to make a 16ohm cab that doesn't fart out/rattle/vibrate under volume with a good deal of low end. I do think VHT/Fryette, Hiwatt, and Orange achieved greatness in this category however.
If I didn't use modern amps with tons of gain and low end (eg. VHT/Fryette, Bogner, Diezel, Mesa, etc.), I would be totally content with Marshall 1960a and 1960b cabs, even with their 5/8" baltic birch ply vs. 3/4" baltic birch ply. AND Marshalls use finger joints vs. tongue/grove or rabbet joints which is actually more expensive to produce.
I have constant access to an old Marshall metal handled straight cab with a ply back, and TBH, the major difference in sound between it and my '87 JCM 800 1960a with GT75's is the speakers. Putting a wood screw through the back panel of a Marshall cab into the 2x2" brace that goes from the rear panel and is glued to the front baffel, is one of the best things you can do to them. You can also get Marshall cabs for $250-450 all day lond depending on condition as well.
