Floyd Question

If I were you, I would buy an original vintage Floyd on eBay. The newer German stuff is NOT good, and the Gotoh Japanese made Floyd beats it easily for better quality.
 
Better yet, go buy an 80s vintage Kramer with an original Floyd on it and put that on. Even a Focus. It'll be cheaper than buying just the Floyd by it's self.
 
I bought a new original German made Floyd a couple of years ago and couldn't find any difference between it and my vintage version. Very well made, I thought.
 
Stramm8":1tl11l1o said:
I bought a new original German made Floyd a couple of years ago and couldn't find any difference between it and my vintage version. Very well made, I thought.

They appear the same. The difference is in the hardness of the steel.
 
rcm78":16y319c5 said:
Stramm8":16y319c5 said:
I bought a new original German made Floyd a couple of years ago and couldn't find any difference between it and my vintage version. Very well made, I thought.

They appear the same. The difference is in the hardness of the steel.

Ok? The new one was heavier and was a tad more "fatter" sounding. I tried on three different guitars.
 
AndyK":1bdfjlsn said:
If I were you, I would buy an original vintage Floyd on eBay. The newer German stuff is NOT good, and the Gotoh Japanese made Floyd beats it easily for better quality.
Hmmm… Haven't had any problem with the new German Floyds myself…

Steve
 
Stramm8":1oup3bad said:
rcm78":1oup3bad said:
Stramm8":1oup3bad said:
I bought a new original German made Floyd a couple of years ago and couldn't find any difference between it and my vintage version. Very well made, I thought.

They appear the same. The difference is in the hardness of the steel.

Ok? The new one was heavier and was a tad more "fatter" sounding. I tried on three different guitars.

Do they both have the same block? Material/Size
 
sah5150":34fk3pio said:
AndyK":34fk3pio said:
If I were you, I would buy an original vintage Floyd on eBay. The newer German stuff is NOT good, and the Gotoh Japanese made Floyd beats it easily for better quality.
Hmmm… Haven't had any problem with the new German Floyds myself…

Steve

Me neither. I've been playing Floyds since 1984 and besides that trem arm issue that effects some of them where the bar won't stay tight, I think the brand new made in Germany ones are still excellent and still sound great.

I think they definitely sound better than the Gotoh version too.
 
The vintage Floyd had a 42mm L block and the new one had a 37mm block. I didn't wheigh them or anything. The new one just felt more solid to me but again nothing scientific. Depending on the type of build I was doing, I'd buy a new one without hesitation.
 
I'm guessing dude was talking about Schaller when he said, "the new German ones," and not FR's. Hmmm, after clicking the links, I'm gonna say I am wrong lol!
 
Metaddict":346hhzhd said:
I would like to change the Floyd System that i have on my Dean Dimebag Darrell Signature.
But which one should i get?
Schaller or the original one

Here are the links
https://www.thomann.de/de/floyd_rose_ori ... _black.htm
https://www.thomann.de/de/schaller_origi ... ster_b.htm
https://www.thomann.de/de/floyd_rose_pro ... _black.htm

I'm pretty sure Floyds are a 10 degree radius, and that Schallers are a 12 or 14, and I really wanna say 14, so I would probably base my decision on that more than anything.
 
Can you use the Schaller saddles on an Original Floyd base plate ? The radius comes from the height of the saddles, so if you can use the Scheller ones on a Floyd base you'd have the best of both worlds I think...
 
paulyc":2qhhnlh6 said:
Can you use the Schaller saddles on an Original Floyd base plate ? The radius comes from the height of the saddles, so if you can use the Scheller ones on a Floyd base you'd have the best of both worlds I think...

I don't have a guitar with a Schaller here anymore, but I think they are pretty close. BTW I researched and saw that Schaller's are indeed a 12" radius.
 
paulyc":2yww8tft said:
Can you use the Schaller saddles on an Original Floyd base plate ? The radius comes from the height of the saddles, so if you can use the Scheller ones on a Floyd base you'd have the best of both worlds I think...

This whole what fits what with different Floyd bridges is getting ridiculous!!! Back in the day there were two floyd rose bridges. The Original, and the Licensed. Both were made by Schaller in Germany. The Original Floyd Rose bridge is in fact produced by Schaller.
From what I remember, The Schaller licensed bridge has a cast baseplate with hardened knife edges and cast saddles. The baseplate often had the guitar manufactures name on it but I had one that said Floyd Rose II. The baseplate was thicker, but the saddles looked identicle to the Original saddles.

On these old bridges the saddles were absolutely interchangable. I had to swap a few out on Licensed bridges because they cracked (Cast pot metal goodness!!!)

Who knows what fits what nowadays.
 
moronmountain":h4gym8c8 said:
Metaddict":h4gym8c8 said:
I would like to change the Floyd System that i have on my Dean Dimebag Darrell Signature.
But which one should i get?
Schaller or the original one

Here are the links
https://www.thomann.de/de/floyd_rose_ori ... _black.htm
https://www.thomann.de/de/schaller_origi ... ster_b.htm
https://www.thomann.de/de/floyd_rose_pro ... _black.htm

I'm pretty sure Floyds are a 10 degree radius, and that Schallers are a 12 or 14, and I really wanna say 14, so I would probably base my decision on that more than anything.

Original Floyd Rose bridges have a 12" radius without any shims. There are shims available to create any radius but good luck finding them...
 
Well, where would the shims go ? Under the outer saddles to raise them up to flatten the radius ? You could grind the bottom of the middle 4 saddles on a surface grinder to accomplish the same thing without shims.
 
I read that Floyds are set to a 10" radius from the factory...not 12...which sucks if true for guys with Charvels and Jacksons that have a compound 12" to 16" radius on their necks as there's no way on a Floyd (without shims or surgery) to increase it, there by giving you the best action possible on the outer 4 strings.
 
paulyc":1grsi95z said:
Well, where would the shims go ? Under the outer saddles to raise them up to flatten the radius ? You could grind the bottom of the middle 4 saddles on a surface grinder to accomplish the same thing without shims.

Who has a surface grinder?

Yes, the shims go under the saddles.
 
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