Noise gate issue. Anybody else?

dynovalve

New member
Sometimes (on 3 & 4th channel only) My amp will "stutter" in & out. I am pretty sure it is the noise gate doing it. Usually the noise gate functions fine but sometimes it seems to turn on & off when it shouldn't like it is confused. It is set pretty low and the slightest touch will normally make it come on at this setting. When "stuck" I can strum a hard chord and it stutters a bit then eventually straightens out and works fine. It doesn't do it that often and only channel 3 & 4 do it so I am thinking that noise gate "freaks out" sometimes.I emailed ENGL about this and they didn't name the the noisegate as a possible suspect. ??? and implied a tube and a couple other related things.
I have brand new tubes & changing them out did changed nothing. Tube sockets are fine also. It did this once at a show for a second and has me worried about trusting it not to "stick" at a time when the spotlight is on me. It would be hard for a tech to diagnose maybe because it does it so infrequently like once every third night. I will try again but the first time it ever did it I think I turned the noisegate off and it still did it!!! I really believe it is the noisegate flaking. No pops,crackles etc. It goes to silence just like when the gate comes on/off. I love this amazing amp so much and for it to have this rain cloud aggravates me.
 
which amp?
The noise gate on my fireball did that if I turned it up around 12 o'clock (that's what it's there for), but at lower settings it was fine....
 
Powerball II. I would totally understand the behavior if I had the gate up high. I set mine very light and it acts like it is stubborn opening when it should just pop open. Kind of sticks & stutters for a sec. Level of the gate has no effect. Of course if it is up high it would close when I don't want it to but it's just barely on. Like I said it as though it forgets what level it is supposed to open at or something.
 
I don`t like how the in-built gate works and influences the sound of my Invader. I don`t use it at all. To me the noise level is pretty acceptable.
 
Last time I used a gate or really needed to, I had one of the rockman smartgates. So for me not having used much gating,the ENGL gate works perfect when normally working. I ran it last night for hours with gate off and the amp was flawless. I was recording with a 1x12 at bedroom volumes trying some different mics and was very pleased with the way the powerball 2 goes through a mic. I have read some say a Powerball 2 doesn't mic/record well and that couldn't be farther from the truth. These things have "album tone" right out of the box very little eq needed by just moving the right mic in the right place. Put a tape delay,slight mid boost,& reverb on channel 4 and you about can't put your guitar down until somebody shakes you out of your trance! The control I have over feedback & harmonics is just fantastic. You can get those sounds you always wonder how they did like on Lock & key "The Hunter" solo . Now if I can just stop worrying about the gate thing.
 
My noise gate does the same thing. It's like a "clipping" effect that happens when the gate doesn't clean up. I've read several places online about the noise gates in Engls kinda sucking. It's the only thing about the PBII that I don't like.

Dyno have you tried running a regular noise gate through the front of the amp?

The only thing I use the Powerball's noise gate for is to get rid of the constant "hiss" I get at higher volumes. Then I run an ISP Decimator at about 11 o clock to clean up all the other noise that the Engl's noise gate doesn't. It works pretty well and doesn't take away from the tone at all.
 
Thanks, Jens, I emailed you a few days ago about this through the email link on your profile. Is there a different way to contact you?
 
TheSweep":3nzrh7qh said:
My noise gate does the same thing. It's like a "clipping" effect that happens when the gate doesn't clean up. I've read several places online about the noise gates in Engls kinda sucking. It's the only thing about the PBII that I don't like.

Dyno have you tried running a regular noise gate through the front of the amp?


The only thing I use the Powerball's noise gate for is to get rid of the constant "hiss" I get at higher volumes. Then I run an ISP Decimator at about 11 o clock to clean up all the other noise that the Engl's noise gate doesn't. It works pretty well and doesn't take away from the tone at all.

Problem is (although I don't know for sure) I recall having the gate all the way counterclockwise and it "stuttering" so an extra gate wouldn't take my worries away.

Actually I wouldn't care if the amp even had a gate. I usually don't use so much gain that it hisses BADLY anyway.For the amount of gain you get the Powerball 2 is pretty quiet. (high gain and strat/P90 another story especially if you get near the transformers with your guitar YIKES!)
Sat night I ran it all night with the gate/amp working perfect. The randomness of the problem concerns me. And the not knowing for 100% sure that it IS the gate.


With all the computer like functions on this amp, wouldn't it be cool to have "diagnosis codes" like cars have that you could read then find out what an issue is.
 
dynovalve":32k4vipu said:
Thanks, Jens, I emailed you a few days ago about this through the email link on your profile. Is there a different way to contact you?

Sorry, I did not get that email. Please email me directly (see below).

Jens

Jens Kruse
Engl USA Support
Los Angeles, CA
818-333-6781
info@krusekontrol.com
 
dynovalve":18gvnmvs said:
posted this on the forum but thought I'd see what you had to say....

Sometimes (on 3 & 4th channel only) My amp will "stutter" in & out. I am
99% sure it is the noise gate doing it. Usually the noise gate functions
fine but sometimes it seems to turn on & off when it shouldn't like it is
confused. It is set pretty low and the slightest touch will normally make
it come on at this setting. When "stuck" I can strum a hard chord and it
stutters a bit then eventually straightens out and works fine. It doesn't
do it that often and only channel 3 & 4 do it so I am thinking that noise
gate "freaks out" sometimes.I emailed ENGL about this and they didn't name
the the noisegate as a possible suspect. ??? and implied a tube and a
couple other related things.
I have brand new tubes & changing them out did changed nothing.
. It did this once at a show for a second and has me worried about trusting
it not to "stick" at a time when the spotlight is on me. It would be hard
for a tech to diagnose maybe because it does it so infrequently like once
every third night. I will try again but the first time it ever did it I
think I turned the noisegate off and it still did it!!! I really believe it
is the noisegate flaking. No pops,crackles etc. It goes to silence just
like when the gate comes on/off. I love this amazing amp so much and for it
to have this rain cloud aggravates me.

Question #2. When pulling out tube V5 (preamp) the socket seems to move a
little before the tube does and makes a low pitched "squeek". I know the
sockets are PC mounted so this worries me. I don't know what the sockets
ENGL use look like so I can't tell if it may just be the ceramic/inner
moving in an outer ring or something in which case may be considered
normal.
Thank you so much.

I also believe from reading the description that your issue is NOT related to the noise gate itself. Especially since the issue occured at least once when the noise gate was off.
The most likely cause is a preamp tube or the socket. Preamp tubes in Invaders are numbered V7-V9 and V10 being the Phase Inverter which is considered power amp section. So whatever preamp tube socket is squeeking or moving most like is due to loose pin retainers in the socket which can give the appearance that the socket itself is moving (but it can't move as it is soldered into PCB).

When I get tube amps for service (any brand for that matter) I ALWAYS take out all tubes, test them in a tube tester (even when new as quite a few new tubes come bad quality), clean and scrub all socket pin retainers, the manually tighten the retainers until the tube has the least amount of slack when inserted. This insures proper contact of tube pins with the sockets and therefore with the PCB of amp.

Especially when amps are a few years old they need to be cleaned of corrosion and all sockets adjusted REGULARLY, once a year is best or at least every time you change tubes which should be at least every 2 years or more often if you play a lot. The tubes are always the weak link in the chain and players must ensure they buy tested tubes from a good source and get them tested, checked and power tubes re-biased on a regular basis to avoid problems.
Some NOS preamp tubes last very long, many many years, but those tubes' pins themselves need to be cleaned and brushed off corrosion to ensure proper contact. I can not emphasize enough how important this is. Think of it like the spark plugs in your car. When they are dirty and old they don't work properly and the engine does not run well.

I have seen it all what tubes can cause, up to burning 2 inch holes into PCB and blackening half the board. That particular PCB was totaled and had to be replaced. The player did not change power tubes in 4-5 years with regular play and never got the amp serviced.

So what you should do is take out all tubes incl. power tubes, get a contact spray and soak the retainers. Then scrub the retainers using a tube, by going in an out of the sockets 5-10 times. Do not use a tool do to do this as there might be lethal voltages lurking on the plate pins !
Then try the amp again. If the problem persists the retainers need to be tightened. You can only do this with a tool and MUST DISCHARGE THE FILTER CAPS first. This procedure should be left to a tech.

I solved so many problems by just thoroughly cleaning the amp inside out, testing the tubes, scrubbing the tube pins clean etc etc. When it's done right the amp will run like a clock work again.

If you have any more questions please feel free to ask.

Sincerely,

Jens Kruse
 
On another note, if your problem only occurs with ch3+4 then it can actually only be with preamp tube V8. For the Invader 150 V8 would be the 2nd preamp tube counting from the input jack. I would emphasize on cleaning and tightening that socket.

Sincerely,

Jens Kruse
 
So whatever preamp tube socket is squeeking or moving most like is due to loose pin retainers in the socket which can give the appearance that the socket itself is moving (but it can't move as it is soldered into PCB).

How are they soldering the ceramic socket to a PCB board? The sockets are usually in some kind of sleeve or housing. The ceramic in the housing or the PCB board is moving causing the squeek. I am talking about a Powerball 2 here. Have you been into one to see the type of tube sockets the preamp uses? If I could see a pic I could probably have my question answered but I don't want to open it for that.
It only happens on the one tube so i am guessing (hoping)it is the ceramic part inside the metal part moving if possible. When the "squeek happens the ceramic part moves with the tube for about .050 or so. You can see it. Thanks!
 
The ceramic is around the pin retainers which connect the pins of the tube to the PCB via terminals which are one piece with the retainers. It is possible for the ceramic to have a bit of slack and move slightly, or all 9 retainers move when the tube is inserted and you wiggle the tube which makes it seem like the socket is loose. It should not have any impact on anything.
I would first clean this socket thoroughly and tighten the retainers so the tube pins have no slack. Please be sure to discharge the filter caps first.
Otherwise please let a tech look at this.
 
Ok so if you were 100% sure it is not the pins, what would be your next guess? I clean tube sockets when I change tubes. I really don't get how it could be pins in a new amp with new sockets. Does ENGL use the cheapest most unreliable ones ever? I have a old tweed amp from the 50's and it has had tubes in and out of it a thousand times with no tube socket issues. The tubes would fall out almost if you take the retainers off! Does anyone know the type of tube sockets ENGL uses? I'm guessing they don't make their own.
 
I'm just trying to help you out from long distance. I can't look at your amp. Engl uses standard tube sockets. I did not know your amp is new. I gave you a standard answer based on the facts provided. From what I know the most likely solution is to clean that socket and tighten the pin retainers. Then also swap that preamp tube out. If still no success you need to get it looked at by a tech. If your amp is still under warranty we will find you an authorized repair center.
 
As a tech, you know there are many types/brands of "standard" tube sockets. I guessed being a ENGL tech you may be able to identify what type and possibly lead me to a part number or picture so I could take a look at the complete assembly. I am a mechanical engineer so there is not much there I wouldn't understand or be able to figure out by looking at one. I have seen tube sockets move within their frame before and I still believe that is what is happening. If not, I am going to be a bit concerned about the stability of the board the tube sockets are mounted on. Most of the time board mounted tube sockets are considered a "cheap" way of doing things in a tube amp and it surprises me an ENGL would use this method frankly. Like the difference between Marshall 2204 1982 vs 1984.
 
ENGL gets all of their sockets made by a factory, they don't buy from something like Mouser Electronics where you could look up a part by part#. All I can advice you of at this point is to get the sockets' functionality examined by an amp tech should you continue to experiment problems.
From my experience, again, sockets can move within their frame and not cause any issues as long as the tube's pins are closely connected by the socket's retainers and the socket is well soldered into PCB.
All amp models I know with PCB have board mounted tube sockets, the sockets are directly soldered in. You call it "cheap" and yes it is, but as a means of efficient and fast assembly for mass production and yes, it is much less expensive than hand wiring. If you mean "cheap" in terms of assembly quality I must disagree. Your socket "might" have an issue, but generally speaking this is a very solid assembly procedure and all manufacturers use it extensively.
All Diezel Amps' sockets are PCB mounted, all Hughes + Kettner, all Mesas I can think of from last 20 years, all of Peavey's from the last 20 years that I know, all EVH amps including all 5150s/6505 and new EVH III etc etc.
 
All this being said, and playing the amp having it stutter only on 3 & 4,the way it silences exactly like the gate does, I would bet $500.00 it is the gate closing when it shouldn't. Some times it does it while playing a certain note a certain way slightly muted but somehow the gate sees the signal or what the gate responds to as something it should close to.
It's just a weird quirk. I wish there was a way to "hard switch" off the gate.
 
Hi all. New to this forum. I realize this thread is a few months old, but I didn't see a resolution posted to this problem. I too was experiencing the same exact problem, but with a FB 100. The cure was contact cleaner. The problem only occurred with my z-4 pedal plugged in. A little contact cleaner in the jack & the problem went away.
 
Back
Top