16Ohm Captor X + Wizard 100W

[WizardSouth-JP]

Rick has told me several times that he doesn't really like pushing the volume way up into any load box as you could damage the amp if the load box gives up. And to be honest, a 50w, 100w, 150w, 200w Wizard past 3-4 on the master volume is plenty loud. Richie Faulkner was running his KT88 150w MCII's on 3.5 - plenty loud in front of the rig - I don't run mine much past 3 ever as it's crazy loud.

 

[RossJohnDavies]

Hi @WizardSouth-JP

Thanks for weighing in! Our load-boxes are tried as tested for sure but we agree, Wizard amps tend to be super loud so you don't need to push them too much, especially in load-box configurations!

Kind regards,

Ross

 

[Deleted member 16554]

Rick has told me several times that he doesn't really like pushing the volume way up into any load box as you could damage the amp if the load box gives up. And to be honest, a 50w, 100w, 150w, 200w Wizard past 3-4 on the master volume is plenty loud. Richie Faulkner was running his KT88 150w MCII's on 3.5 - plenty loud in front of the rig - I don't run mine much past 3 ever as it's crazy loud.

Thanks for this response, just now seeing it. I’ve realized that pushing the master much past 2 is not needed.

Not to mention the load box with MV past two starts kicking the fan on every time you “chug”

Fine results with Master at 2.

Sad to hear Rick does not like load boxes (got the same response from him via email)

@WizardSouth-JP do you use the captor X for your recordings? All your vids I e watched I thought were just sound out of the cab

 

[AmyTwonotes]

Thanks for this response, just now seeing it. I’ve realized that pushing the master much past 2 is not needed.

Not to mention the load box with MV past two starts kicking the fan on every time you “chug”

Fine results with Master at 2.

Sad to hear Rick does not like load boxes (got the same response from him via email)

@WizardSouth-JP do you use the captor X for your recordings? All your vids I e watched I thought were just sound out of the cab

Hi Leveraged Sellout,

Amy from Two notes here! We're happy to hear you've found the sweet spot

Let us know if you have any questions!

 

[Deleted member 16554]

Hi Leveraged Sellout,

Amy from Two notes here! We're happy to hear you've found the sweet spot

Let us know if you have any questions!

Hi Amy, appreciate your response and you taking the time to post.

I wouldn’t say I’ve found the sweet spot as much as I’ve found a brick wall of which I’m afraid to go past.

Truth be told, I thought I’d be able to get the master volume higher.

The way Ross explained it in previous posts is that if the fan is coming in as soon as you start playing, you want to turn the amp down.

I didn’t get the dreaded red light but the fan coming on as soon as I started playing did get me thinking.

Would you concur with Ross’ assessment that if the fan comes on as soon as you start playing, the volume should be turned down?

If so, then it’s not really a device with which one can “crank” a 100W amp. That part is what I think I misguided myself on based on what I saw in some paid YouTube marketing videos.

 

[Dilan - Two notes]

Hello @Leveraged Sellout , Dilan from Two notes here

I'll try to be as complete as possible regarding the fan of the Captor X.
As you have been informed, the fan is passive and is powered by the incoming signal. The fan is triggered by the signal - when the signal reaches a certain level the fan will kick in, whatever the temperature inside the unit. The point at which the fan kicks in is completely independent of the level of the temperature inside the unit.
We conducted plenty of tests when we were developping the Captor X, including playing loud amps over 24 hours through the Captor X with the fan spinning - we recorded no issue during these tests.
The Captor X is equipped with a security thermal load that is activated if the unit goes in overheat (due to a load box failure, or a fan failure for example).

You can use the Captor X with the fan kicking in regularly, even at all times - you need to monitor if the Captor X is getting too hot, this is the most important parameter.

 

[Deleted member 16554]

Hello @Leveraged Sellout , Dilan from Two notes here

I'll try to be as complete as possible regarding the fan of the Captor X.
As you have been informed, the fan is passive and is powered by the incoming signal. The fan is triggered by the signal - when the signal reaches a certain level the fan will kick in, whatever the temperature inside the unit. The point at which the fan kicks in is completely independent of the level of the temperature inside the unit.
We conducted plenty of tests when we were developping the Captor X, including playing loud amps over 24 hours through the Captor X with the fan spinning - we recorded no issue during these tests.
The Captor X is equipped with a security thermal load that is activated if the unit goes in overheat (due to a load box failure, or a fan failure for example).

You can use the Captor X with the fan kicking in regularly, even at all times - you need to monitor if the Captor X is getting too hot, this is the most important parameter.

Dilan, this is very helpful, your detailed response is much appreciated!

So if the fan is kicking in, that’s not a problem. What matters is if the unit is overheating?

Two main ways to know if the unit is overheating are by f the LED turns red and then just by touching the unit?

In terms of touching the unit and feeling the level of heat, can you give me some guidelines? I’m assuming lukewarm is normal but if it’s so hot that I cannot even touch it, is that the red flag?

 

[Dilan - Two notes]

The red LED does not give any indication about the temperature in the unit - it is only linked to the audio processor of the Captor X to indicate input or output clipping issues. If the unit has an issue with the audio processor, it will use the red LED will flash steadily.

Regarding the heat - lukewarm is normal, yes. Not able to touch the unit is over the limit, definitely.

If the unit is overheating, you need to stop playing, turn off the amp and the Torpedo, and let everything cool down. When everything has cooled down, you will need to turn down the level of the amp to avoid overheating again.

 

[Deleted member 16554]

The red LED does not give any indication about the temperature in the unit - it is only linked to the audio processor of the Captor X to indicate input or output clipping issues. If the unit has an issue with the audio processor, it will use the red LED will flash steadily.

Regarding the heat - lukewarm is normal, yes. Not able to touch the unit is over the limit, definitely.

If the unit is overheating, you need to stop playing, turn off the amp and the Torpedo, and let everything cool down. When everything has cooled down, you will need to turn down the level of the amp to avoid overheating again.

Perfect, this makes a ton of sense!

So essentially the only way to know if the unit is overheating is to touch it from time to time and see how it feels?

Otherwise whether the fan is coming in or off does not matter as long as the unit has not heated up greatly.

Red LED is only clipping related not an issue with the load handling capability of the Captor?

Appreciate all your time, once again!

 

[Dilan - Two notes]

Hello @Leveraged Sellout , yes the red LED is not related to the load box. It is only linked to the audio processor, and the signal fed to it and out of it. As the audio processor deals with the digital signal it is of the utmost importance that no clipping happens there, be it at the input or the output.