3 Ways to Make Your Guitar Cab Sound Better

  • Thread starter Thread starter BeZo
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Has anyone used heat sink resistors to change the impedance of their cabs?

The speakers in my cabs are all 8 ohms wired in pairs, but because I wanted them in stereo I ended up wiring them 16 ohms per side. This causes an impedance mismatch to the 8 ohm outputs of my amps. It sounds okay, but honestly I want a 100% match (8ohm-8ohm.

In theory it sounds simple, but would I be able to get four 16 ohm heat sink resistors that I can wire in parallel with the speaker cab connections?
 
When you start talking about speaker wire and gauge, you have to talk about distance too. If you've ever put together a PA, you know the longer the cable is, the fatter it needs to be to carry the current. The 6 inch or less wire inside your amp isn't choking the current because it's short and right up front. If you ran 3 feet of that down to your cab, though, you'd have a problem. The wire to your cab and inside your cab needs to be fatter because of the distance it's running. The leads to the speaker don't need to be that fat because they aren't running a long distance. It's the distance of the cable run that matters the most when you're talking about speaker gauge.

If you're running 10g cable inside your cab, it's not going to be any different from 14-12g cable because it isn't a long distance. Now, if you're running a cab 20ft from your head on the other side of the stage, then a 10g cable is better than a 14g cable. It's the length of the cable that requires a larger gauge.
 
yeti":34yskgv4 said:
LowDesertSludge":34yskgv4 said:
Could acostically de-coupling the cab from the floor with an auralex board work with you're list of tricks?

work for what?
this?
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/back ... ost8906672


here:
http://pickroar.com/953/home-depot-amp-riser/

what do your ears tell you in the video?
not being smart, just saying, trust your ears....even youtube's shitty quality let's the differences shine through! i liked this video a lot!


I have a 2x12 and a 4X12 with casters. Why wouldn't that help decouple a bit already? The cabs are sitting on carpet at the moment.
 
fek":t69b6avf said:
yeti":t69b6avf said:
LowDesertSludge":t69b6avf said:
Could acostically de-coupling the cab from the floor with an auralex board work with you're list of tricks?

work for what?
this?
http://www.ultimatemetal.com/forum/back ... ost8906672


here:
http://pickroar.com/953/home-depot-amp-riser/

what do your ears tell you in the video?
not being smart, just saying, trust your ears....even youtube's shitty quality let's the differences shine through! i liked this video a lot!


I have a 2x12 and a 4X12 with casters. Why wouldn't that help decouple a bit already? The cabs are sitting on carpet at the moment.

make a video and see if it does! only way to tell is have the proof in the pudding. human audio memory is about good for 12 seconds i think?
 
petejt":1dnj07t0 said:
Has anyone used heat sink resistors to change the impedance of their cabs?

The speakers in my cabs are all 8 ohms wired in pairs, but because I wanted them in stereo I ended up wiring them 16 ohms per side. This causes an impedance mismatch to the 8 ohm outputs of my amps. It sounds okay, but honestly I want a 100% match (8ohm-8ohm.

In theory it sounds simple, but would I be able to get four 16 ohm heat sink resistors that I can wire in parallel with the speaker cab connections?



assuming they're 4x12s why not just wire them series parallel?
series_parallel_8ohm_speaker_load.jpg
 
BeZo":2cvic15l said:
When you start talking about speaker wire and gauge, you have to talk about distance too. If you've ever put together a PA, you know the longer the cable is, the fatter it needs to be to carry the current. The 6 inch or less wire inside your amp isn't choking the current because it's short and right up front. If you ran 3 feet of that down to your cab, though, you'd have a problem. The wire to your cab and inside your cab needs to be fatter because of the distance it's running. The leads to the speaker don't need to be that fat because they aren't running a long distance. It's the distance of the cable run that matters the most when you're talking about speaker gauge.

If you're running 10g cable inside your cab, it's not going to be any different from 14-12g cable because it isn't a long distance. Now, if you're running a cab 20ft from your head on the other side of the stage, then a 10g cable is better than a 14g cable. It's the length of the cable that requires a larger gauge.

Valid point. :) From the literature I've read, there is no consensus about specific gauges vs distance. Because it all depends on the signal feeding the line. But for instrument speakers, many sources say something around 16 AWG for distances less than 50 feet. Plus, I wonder how many people outside of regular touring musicians playing stadium shows have to run a speaker cable from their amp to their cab more than 3-6 feet. If it's something like a run to the sound board or front-of-house, I doubt a guitarist in a band is going to have to supply his own cable. Really, I'm just concerned with amp -> cab. And for the most part, a 1-3 foot cable will do just fine. I see little need for those high-end, luxury cables touting oxygen-free adamentium platinum hexagonally braided wire is all. And I tend to stick to gauges that are reasonable. But people do what people do I guess. :)

I replaced the speakers in my Bogner cab a year or two ago. When I opened it up, the wire inside was about as thick as my pinky finger. I had to use an industrial solder gun to desolder that stuff from the speakers. It was a little overkill.
 
I did something probably completely unnecessary with my 2x12 cab. I made wedge braces for the of the cab joints by cutting the ends off pine 2x4's with my circular saw set at an angle, and then glued them in and reinforced them with a couple of finishing nails. I figured it might help stabilize the cab walls at the joints, but hell I'm not a woodshop ninja. I've also sealed the inside of the cab with liquid nails. Between the sealing, bracing, and upgrading the speakers to some 13 year old Vintage 30's, this little Seismic Audio 2x12 I paid 150 bucks for sounds great.
 
MississippiMetal":1ge3asxz said:
LOL. Everbody's a speaker cab expert. :lol: :LOL:


Don't know who you are referring to there... but I'm no expert by any comparison, far from novice at that. Seemed like an honest question. :confused:
 
LowDesertSludge":1tmcwju1 said:
MississippiMetal":1tmcwju1 said:
LOL. Everbody's a speaker cab expert. :lol: :LOL:


Don't know who you are referring to there... but I'm no expert by any comparison, far from novice at that. Seemed like an honest question. :confused:

yeah

i really didnt get that either.

i guess my response is LOL. everyone's a troll now?
 
I was referring to how everyone had tips on making a cab sound good. The fact that I have to explain that has left me with a red forehead from facepalming.
 
MississippiMetal":kltz25dd said:
I was referring to how everyone had tips on making a cab sound good. The fact that I have to explain that has left me with a red forehead from facepalming.

ok man!! gotcha!
 
Interested in cracking open my Avatar now to see how good the seal is. Thanks for the tips!
 
yeti":3es3s2al said:
petejt":3es3s2al said:
Has anyone used heat sink resistors to change the impedance of their cabs?

The speakers in my cabs are all 8 ohms wired in pairs, but because I wanted them in stereo I ended up wiring them 16 ohms per side. This causes an impedance mismatch to the 8 ohm outputs of my amps. It sounds okay, but honestly I want a 100% match (8ohm-8ohm.

In theory it sounds simple, but would I be able to get four 16 ohm heat sink resistors that I can wire in parallel with the speaker cab connections?



assuming they're 4x12s why not just wire them series parallel?
series_parallel_8ohm_speaker_load.jpg

Thanks for the idea,, I shall try it out.

I was getting muddled earlier about series and parallel. I realised that now so edited my post.
 
Sorry for the late response, but over two years on I've had it with mismatching the speakers. Particularly with my Marshall amp it just doesn't sound good.
 
hunter":3bmx03oe said:
The cheapes way to get more from your 4x12 is trying this wiring. Gives you two switchable options of parallel/series and series/parallel. They sound different and feel very different. I have proven this with clips some years ago (not sure where I got them now). It's a simple job, just a switch to connect/disconnect the white wire, well worth it!

AGL_4x12_schalt_16ohm.jpg

I read this whole thread and I like this post a lot. This will make the most difference. I only use series//parallel wiring for my Marshall cabinets. Just regular red and black stranded wire. I think it's 14 gauge. Sure, some of the sealing may help, but there are too many variables. I have a "leaky air" Marshall 4x12 that sounds glorious.

Also, you really can't compare Mesa and Marshall cabinet designs. The first difference between them is the size of the back panel. Mesa is a bit smaller and when comparing straight cabs with Marshall straight cabs, Mesa's design has more bottom end and focus. This is why I have so many 4x12 speaker cabinets with different speakers. They all have redeeming qualities and one design (or speaker) can't do it all.

Just my .02.
 
-it's hard for me to believe that people think that a spade connector is as good as a solder connection
 
I have had 3 of those stereo boards in the Marshalls go out over the years, I always pull 'em and rewire in series/par with 14g copper stranded lamp cord. Its cheap and sounds as good as anything out there. I've had some higher end wire, but I could not hear any difference. Same thing with guitar cords, I have some high end mogami's and monsters, but I can plug in a 25 year old whirlwind/fender cord and it sounds the same. All I'm trying to hear are mids anyway :lol: :LOL:
 
 
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