Aftermarket tuner issues

[napalmdeath]

Aren't Grover's made in the US?

No. The Rotomatics used to be, but I think they're actually Korea or Taiwan, (not China). Which ones do you have? Chrome or nickel? I might have some, but not sure if I have that mounting type.. I have a shitload of tuners!

 

[Chase42147]

No. The Rotomatics used to be, but I think they're actually Korea or Taiwan, (not China).

Ohh ok, I didn't know that. The ones I have and the ones I ordered are both Rotomatics, so not Chinese at least

 

[Longo]

The Grover 500 series rotogrip ...are two post lengths.
The pre-2023 are 25,6 mm
Post-2023 are 27.6mm

 

[Chase42147]

The Grover 500 series rotogrip ...are two post lengths.
The pre-2023 are 25,6 mm
Post-2023 are 27.6mmView attachment 395274View attachment 395280

That's weird! The older ones would probably work really well in my case then

 

[Longo]

In my case, no... I need the 27.5mm ones.
I bought them for a BC Rich USA Mockingbird... but the headstock is thicker than a Les Paul...

 

[Chase42147]

In my case, no... I need the 27.5mm ones.
I bought them for a BC Rich USA Mockingbird... but the headstock is thicker than a Les Paul...View attachment 395414

Oh wow, how thick is that headstock?

 

[Longo]

My LP std. 16 mm
The Bc Rich. 17.2 mm
Aprox

 

[Chase42147]

My LP std. 16 mm
The Bc Rich. 17.2 mm
Aprox

That's a solid chunk of wood!

 

[311splawndude]

Wow.

Some of the pictures in here look like a hot mess. I came in to tell you to get a clip-on tuner. Trust me, the resonant waves through the wood improve accuracy.

That said, what I have is a non locking schecter and I try to keep my wraps to a minimum. Under then Over. The more wraps you have the less tight the tension because invariably it will start to slip. Although minute. Not sure if that even helps but this is how I learned and seems to work well. Obviously, there a tons of guitars out there with locking tuners that don't have the messy nuts like your pic.

 

[311splawndude]

PS - if I had a locking nut I would string up the guitar as normal (under Floyd provisions or whatever) and not cinch the locking part down all the way until you have got the tension right between the tuner peg and the neck. Once that is done - lock it down. Someone please tell me I'm wrong.

 

[Chase42147]

Wow.

Some of the pictures in here look like a hot mess. I came in to tell you to get a clip-on tuner. Trust me, the resonant waves through the wood improve accuracy.

That said, what I have is a non locking schecter and I try to keep my wraps to a minimum. Under then Over. The more wraps you have the less tight the tension because invariably it will start to slip. Although minute. Not sure if that even helps but this is how I learned and seems to work well. Obviously, there a tons of guitars out there with locking tuners that don't have the messy nuts like your pic.

That's cool, I've never seen that method before. I'll have to give it a shot when I swap the tuners this weekend.

 

[Erock]

just an aside for locking tunes, I've always tried to consider them like a pulley and fulcrum, and they seem to work well with all brands like that. Lockers don't need or want a bunch of winds.

 

[311splawndude]

just an aside for locking tunes, I've always tried to consider them like a pulley and fulcrum, and they seem to work well with all brands like that. Lockers don't need or want a bunch of winds.

I like it. Physics. I should preface again, I've never dealt with locking tuners. Seems like too much extra effort for gain returned

 

[Erock]

I like it. Physics. I should preface again, I've never dealt with locking tuners. Seems like too much extra effort for gain returned

They are super stable and super fast to change strings if you do it right.

 

[311splawndude]

They are super stable and super fast to change strings if you do it right.

I get the stable part but how is it super faster?

 

[Erock]

I get the stable part but how is it super faster?

not having to make multiple winds, where they never cross over eachother. You only want it to come over the arc and create the fulcrum.

 

[311splawndude]

not having to make multiple winds, where they never cross over eachother. You only want it to come over the arc and create the fulcrum.

Thanks Eric. I get that part and understand the fulcrum creation but why would anyone need to make multiple winds?

The whole process seems longer to me

I'm probably missing a very big step since I've never strung a locking nut/floyd.

I've seen people put the string in first with the 'ball' at the tuner vs the bridge.

Is this not what we are talking about?

 

[Erock]

Thanks Eric. I get that part and understand the fulcrum creation but why would anyone need to make multiple winds?

The whole process seems longer to me

I'm probably missing a very big step since I've never strung a locking nut/floyd.

I've seen people put the string in first with the 'ball' at the tuner vs the bridge.

Is this not what we are talking about?

Maybe we are just missing. I'm taking about a conventional tuner, where you make multiple winds, personally one over the top of the hole, then the rest down under the string to pinch it in the hole. This takes multiple winds for me, ending at the base, so none cross over eachother, thereby avoiding slippage. With lockers, you don't even make a full wind, just enough on the tuner to create the fulcrum effect.