Cheap front loaded 4x12s ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter the4thlast1
  • Start date Start date
the4thlast1 said:
Interesting, was that a design flaw the Peavey 412M ? Do other manufactures do that inside front loaded cabs, it would makes sense becuase they do it with rearloaded cabs .
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I don't know if it is a "flaw" per se, but they were designed before 7 string guitars, baritone guitars, dropped tunings, etc. were common, so they weren't really built for producing sound of those low freqs. Neither was any other cabinet of the day. The slant cab is a little more naturally "stiff" due ot the angle in the baffle, but both styles can benefit from tieing the baffle to the cabinet rear wall - IF you are going to take it down low. It won't be as good as an over-size Mesa box for the low end, but the Mesa benefits from being built with such use in mind. I have a 4212MS, and it si solid, gig-worthy construction, and the metal grill is much more road-worthy than grill cloth, and offers more protection for the speaker cones when cargo shifts in the band trailer. Hell I even like the Eminence-built "Peavey Sheffield" speakers. The only knock I have on the cabs is the casters are little weak, and if you are moving them all the time, you'll eventually want to upgrade those. If you are planning to replace the drivers any way, you may as well find an unloaded or an inexpensive cab, so long as the wood and construction are good. If you aren't playing super-low freqs, the cab will be find as it is.
 
I just picked up a really nice unloaded Carvin cab for $50. it is mint, all solid wood. TBH I was quite impressed with the construction.
 
This also looks the part (and GC shipping is usually dirt cheap):

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Rivera/R412T-Guitar-Cabinet.gc
That's a slant though.

The cheapest good option I'm seeing now, though for a 4x12 is this: https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Peavey/412M-Guitar-Cabinet.gc

Also, if you're open to a 4x12 sounding ported 2x12, the Genz Benz G-Flex is a GREAT cab. GC has one for $349 but I've seen them for much less (often in the $250 and less range). Look around for them. They're great and easy for speaker swaps also. I've got two old G12K-85's in mine and it roars with all of my amps. The stock speakers do well with Marshalls also. These cabs aren't too directional either... the baffle makes for a decent sound dispersion.

https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Genz-Benz/Gb-212-G-Flex-Guitar-Cabinet.gc
 
Hey fellas , thanks very much for links. I probably should have said I am looking for a straight cab, not a slant.
 
the4thlast1 said:
Hey fellas , thanks very much for links. I probably should have said I am looking for a straight cab, not a slant.
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As well you should.

That Peavey I linked above is straight and front loaded. I used to have the slant version of it. They're durable and well made.
 
dirtyfunkg said:
As well you should.

That Peavey I linked above is straight and front loaded. I used to have the slant version of it. They're durable and well made.
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Yes I was considering getting that peavey. BUT Im not sure , one guy was saying they have no cross piece from front to back and that might not be good for lower tuned metal. I guess I could add a piece of wood myself. Its an option. How did you like yours ?
 
It's not a difficult mod to do - if you don't want to prowl the alleys and dumpsters for a bit of wood from cast-off furniture, you can pick up "cull lumber" from most hardware/lumber stores. The only hard part is cutting it to the exact length, but it's pretty easy to measure for a straight cab. You need a drill, a saw, a screwdriver, a tape measure, a -pencil or marker, and the ability to cut a square end, like with a miter box of following a line laid out with a right angle. Find the depth of the cab, and subtract whatever thickness of the piece you make to "cross the T" Screw the top to the crosspiece, center the whole shebang in the middle of the baffle, drill and screw to the baffle, locate appropriate spot on the cab back to drill and screw to the cross member. If you want to be super fancy, you can put a garden hose washer or an O-ring between the cross member and the cab back.

While you are at it, check tightness of all screws that mount the speakers or attach cab hardware, or the baffle to the cab, or the grill to the cab when re-installing.
 
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BlackOut8910 said:
It's not a difficult mod to do - if you don't want to prowl the alleys and dumpsters for a bit of wood from cast-off furniture, you can pick up "cull lumber" from most hardware/lumber stores. The only hard part is cutting it to the exact length, but it's pretty easy to measure for a straight cab. You need a drill, a saw, a screwdriver, a tape measure, a -pencil or marker, and the ability to cut a square end, like with a miter box of following a line laid out with a right angle. Find the depth of the cab, and subtract whatever thickness of the piece you make to "cross the T" Screw the top to the crosspiece, center the whole shebang in the middle of the baffle, drill and screw to the baffle, locate appropriate spot on the cab back to drill and screw to the cross member. If you want to be super fancy, you can put a garden hose washer or an O-ring between the cross member and the cab back.

While you are at it, check tightness of all screws that mount the speakers or attach cab hardware, or the baffle to the cab, or the grill to the cab when re-installing.
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Let us know when your cabs are ready. I’ll buy one.
 
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