Depth Control - Different Capacitor / Different Range & Feel

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It's most likely a parts availability thing. i.e. the builder had a bunch of 1,000pF caps and nothing else. OR... I had one infamous modder tell me he did that on purpose so when he saw other people doing the exact same thing with the same values, he knew they copied him. Almost like a signature of sorts. But that's incredibly egotistical and paranoid. So I don't really buy it. More likely parts availability.
There are guys who believe stacking caps like this, especially different types of caps (ceramic/ poly etc...) changes the tone and response. I've talked to some of them about it. My ears are pretty good but I don't hear the differences nor am I inclined to deep dive into paralleled capacitors for tweaking the tone vs one capacitor of the correct value.
 
It's most likely a parts availability thing. i.e. the builder had a bunch of 1,000pF caps and nothing else. OR... I had one infamous modder tell me he did that on purpose so when he saw other people doing the exact same thing with the same values, he knew they copied him. Almost like a signature of sorts. But that's incredibly egotistical and paranoid. So I don't really buy it. More likely parts availability.
Yeah I kind of had a feeling it didn’t have much to do with the tone. And yeah that’s kind of out there with doing it to detect copy cats. I was also thinking maybe a way for someone to put out a design and call it their own. There’s a schematic floating around of a Cali Mod that uses parallel 15nF caps in the tone stack for the bass and mid. I mean it’s not the typical .022uf like I usually see in a lot of the Marshall based TS and it’s the first time I saw that parallel cap thing pop up in a schematic. I mean I am relatively new to this stuff but I’ve definitely looked at my fair share of schematics over the past 5 or so years since I started.
 
There are guys who believe stacking caps like this, especially different types of caps (ceramic/ poly etc...) changes the tone and response. I've talked to some of them about it. My ears are pretty good but I don't hear the differences nor am I inclined to deep dive into paralleled capacitors for tweaking the tone vs one capacitor of the correct value.
Interesting. I know technically paralleled caps should halve ESR and ESL, but I haven't looked into whether it makes a difference in this case. Sounds like it probably doesn't. I've also seen paralleled ceramic and tantalums recommended by data sheets for supply rail decoupling, but in that case I think you're way out of the audio band.
 
That's the most basic depth control out there. 1 meg pot with a .0047uF cap across it. Then out to the NFB tap.

The .1uF cap is just blocking DC so the depth pot isn't scratchy. It WILL affect the tone, though. That .1uF is blocking very low frequencies so they won't be canceled out. I've tested this a lot. It does add low end. If you want to get silly, put a .0022uF cap there. See what it does...
I Actually like using .0022uF or similar values as a depth option depending on the tone I’m shooting for, I’m not good at identifying what frequencies I’m hearing but I want to say it seems to do something to the low mids or something in the midrange. I did a 3 way depth mod on my one amp with .0022, .0044, & .0069. Still trying to experiment with the values.

I’m also wondering how the position of the NFB resistor affects the response since that amp had factory depth circuit which came after the resistor and I added a variable NFB control right at the tap off of the speaker jack. Sounds pretty good regardless but again still experimenting.
 
I Actually like using .0022uF or similar values as a depth option depending on the tone I’m shooting for, I’m not good at identifying what frequencies I’m hearing but I want to say it seems to do something to the low mids or something in the midrange. I did a 3 way depth mod on my one amp with .0022, .0044, & .0069. Still trying to experiment with the values.

I’m also wondering how the position of the NFB resistor affects the response since that amp had factory depth circuit which came after the resistor and I added a variable NFB control right at the tap off of the speaker jack. Sounds pretty good regardless but again still experimenting.
.0022 on the depth pot is more midrangey. But I’m talking about putting a .0022 cap by itself in-line with the NFB, not on the pot. In that schematic above, replace the .1uF with a .0022 uF. You’ll be amazed at how huge the amp will sound.
 
.0022 on the depth pot is more midrangey. But I’m talking about putting a .0022 cap by itself in-line with the NFB, not on the pot. In that schematic above, replace the .1uF with a .0022 uF. You’ll be amazed at how huge the amp will sound.
That’s a great idea! I’m definitely going to try that. Thanks! Always new stuff to try, everytime I learn something new I’m like a kid in a candy store. lol
 
There are guys who believe stacking caps like this, especially different types of caps (ceramic/ poly etc...) changes the tone and response. I've talked to some of them about it. My ears are pretty good but I don't hear the differences nor am I inclined to deep dive into paralleled capacitors for tweaking the tone vs one capacitor of the correct value.
When I was modding my JCA20 I went through a lot of depth caps. I found an old .0033uf cap and it changed the amp entirely. I wanted a little more from the circuit and whenever I would remove that cap, I HATED the amp, so I ended up stacking another cap with it to get a value and tone I wanted. What’s interesting is I found another cap from the same company that was .005uf and it didn’t sound the same. That cap is magical and I’ve always kept my eye out for more. It was magical enough that I avoided mentioning what it is in this post. I’m actually being serious. 😉
 
That’s a great idea! I’m definitely going to try that. Thanks! Always new stuff to try, everytime I learn something new I’m like a kid in a candy store. lol

It’s really interesting for sure. Let us know how it goes. It’s definitely not subtle.

The only downside is that it really changes the entire voice of the amp. So if you are shooting for a specific sound and you’re already close, it’ll throw you off quite a bit.

I personally enjoy the response of the big low end temporarily, but it is a little too much to be permanent for me. There’s a limit where it’s just a bit overboard.

If you think about how it works, the .0022 is blocking any frequency lower than its value from getting into the NFB circuit. So all the midrange and lows that would not be able to pass the .0022 are now not being able to be cancelled out and therefore make it to the speaker. This actually makes NFB sort of easier to understand.

With the above being said, you can then tune which frequencies are making it through into the NFB by adjusting the value of the cap in series. That .1uF will pass a lot more low mid and lows. So then they are cancelled and you hear less of them. Of course you can use any value you want and see what sounds right, if any.
 
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I Actually like using .0022uF or similar values as a depth option depending on the tone I’m shooting for, I’m not good at identifying what frequencies I’m hearing but I want to say it seems to do something to the low mids or something in the midrange. I did a 3 way depth mod on my one amp with .0022, .0044, & .0069. Still trying to experiment with the values.

I’m also wondering how the position of the NFB resistor affects the response since that amp had factory depth circuit which came after the resistor and I added a variable NFB control right at the tap off of the speaker jack. Sounds pretty good regardless but again still experimenting.
It’s always good to test each value yourself. Take a small notebook and write down your findings for later reference.
 
When I was modding my JCA20 I went through a lot of depth caps. I found an old .0033uf cap and it changed the amp entirely. I wanted a little more from the circuit and whenever I would remove that cap, I HATED the amp, so I ended up stacking another cap with it to get a value and tone I wanted. What’s interesting is I found another cap from the same company that was .005uf and it didn’t sound the same. That cap is magical and I’ve always kept my eye out for more. It was magical enough that I avoided mentioning what it is in this post. I’m actually being serious. 😉

I wonder if the value of the cap has drifted so that it sounds different and is not able to be replicated with other caps. Maybe it is actually 2800pf instead of 3300pf, for example, due to age, tolerance etc…

If you have a good capacitance meter you can check it. I’d be curious to know. I wouldn’t rely on the capacitance function of a Fluke as it’s not typically accurate below .1uF. I have a separate meter I use solely for capacitance.

I’ve added 150-500pf caps to a regular depth cap and the sound changes noticeably. So if it’s drifted one way or the other it might be what makes it special for you.
 
I wonder if the value of the cap has drifted so that it sounds different and is not able to be replicated with other caps. Maybe it is actually 2800pf instead of 3300pf, for example, due to age, tolerance etc…

If you have a good capacitance meter you can check it. I’d be curious to know. I wouldn’t rely on the capacitance function of a Fluke as it’s not typically accurate below .1uF. I have a separate meter I use solely for capacitance.

I’ve added 150-500pf caps to a regular depth cap and the sound changes noticeably. So if it’s drifted one way or the other it might be what makes it special for you.
It very well could have drifted. I only have a fluke meter. 🤣
 
When I was modding my JCA20 I went through a lot of depth caps. I found an old .0033uf cap and it changed the amp entirely. I wanted a little more from the circuit and whenever I would remove that cap, I HATED the amp, so I ended up stacking another cap with it to get a value and tone I wanted. What’s interesting is I found another cap from the same company that was .005uf and it didn’t sound the same. That cap is magical and I’ve always kept my eye out for more. It was magical enough that I avoided mentioning what it is in this post. I’m actually being serious. 😉
I vaguely remember you mentioning it in another discussion about depth circuits but I don’t know if you mentioned what it was. I won’t say what I think it is just in case lol I’m thinking maybe I need to invest in a decade box to make this a little easier although it won’t cover the various brands and models at least I should be able to dial in the value a bit easier.
 
When I was modding my JCA20 I went through a lot of depth caps. I found an old .0033uf cap and it changed the amp entirely. I wanted a little more from the circuit and whenever I would remove that cap, I HATED the amp, so I ended up stacking another cap with it to get a value and tone I wanted. What’s interesting is I found another cap from the same company that was .005uf and it didn’t sound the same. That cap is magical and I’ve always kept my eye out for more. It was magical enough that I avoided mentioning what it is in this post. I’m actually being serious. 😉
Also that JCA 20 is still one of the best sounding videos I’ve heard of a Jet City amp. I know you chose to take them down due to the designs being someone else’s but those videos are what got me into Jet City modding in the first place!
 
The only downside is that it really changes the entire voice of the amp. So if you are shooting for a specific sound and you’re already close, it’ll throw you off quite a bit.

I personally enjoy the response of the big low end temporarily, but it is a little too much to be permanent for me. There’s a limit where it’s just a bit overboard.

If you think about how it works, the .0022 is blocking any frequency lower than its value from getting into the NFB circuit. So all the midrange and lows that would not be able to pass the .0022 are now not being able to be cancelled out and therefore make it to the speaker. This actually makes NFB sort of easier to understand.

With the above being said, you can then tune which frequencies are making it through into the NFB by adjusting the value of the cap in series. That .1uF will pass a lot more low mid and lows. So then they are cancelled and you hear less of them. Of course you can use any value you want and see what sounds right, if any.
I will definitely keep you posted once I've tried it. I added some caaps to my recent parts order but I'm really considering getting a decade box to make tasks like this a bit easier.

It does make sense as far as how it works but it also raises some questions for me. So since the depth pot/cap is variably passing frequencies above a certain point, the series .0022 cap after the pot is at a higher cutoff and also doesn't have any resistance due to the lack of a pot? So like cranking a depth pot after the actual depth pot. I kind of predict some interesting interactions depending on value but that's just a wild guess.

Just wanted to throw an idea out here, and keep in mind I have no idea how to implement it, but what if some kind of bandpass circuit was put in the NFB path? Blocking both lows below a certain point and highs above different point? I actually had the same thought regarding interstage filtering but that's kind of already what happens throughout the gain stages isn't it?
 
I have preferred the .0068 depth cap. That is the 5150 value, and I find the frequency to be a little lower, right in that 'shake the walls' zone. .1 tends to get a little too low. I think the common .0047 is a little too high, it starts getting into the low mid cardboard zone.

However, I am curious about changing the series .1 cap to .0022. I always knew that was for removing the knob scratch, but it is interesting to think that could increase the overall baseline of bass extension.
 
I will definitely keep you posted once I've tried it. I added some caaps to my recent parts order but I'm really considering getting a decade box to make tasks like this a bit easier.

It does make sense as far as how it works but it also raises some questions for me. So since the depth pot/cap is variably passing frequencies above a certain point, the series .0022 cap after the pot is at a higher cutoff and also doesn't have any resistance due to the lack of a pot? So like cranking a depth pot after the actual depth pot. I kind of predict some interesting interactions depending on value but that's just a wild guess.

Just wanted to throw an idea out here, and keep in mind I have no idea how to implement it, but what if some kind of bandpass circuit was put in the NFB path? Blocking both lows below a certain point and highs above different point? I actually had the same thought regarding interstage filtering but that's kind of already what happens throughout the gain stages isn't it?

I have preferred the .0068 depth cap. That is the 5150 value, and I find the frequency to be a little lower, right in that 'shake the walls' zone. .1 tends to get a little too low. I think the common .0047 is a little too high, it starts getting into the low mid cardboard zone.

However, I am curious about changing the series .1 cap to .0022. I always knew that was for removing the knob scratch, but it is interesting to think that could increase the overall baseline of bass extension.
Yes I am also a fan of the .0068 for a lot of the tones I play through. I include .0069 on my 3 way depth switch. Only reason it’s .0069 and not the .0068 is because of how the on-off-on switch gets wired I had to combine a .0047 and a .0022 in parallel. It sounded good so I kept it at 69. My next build I plan on using a relay setup so I can include more choices and use an actual .0068
 
The tolerance on the cap isn’t tight enough to be a difference between .0068 and .0069.
 
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