Difference in carvin guitars?

[Audioholic]

What is the difference in sound / playability of the carvin c66 models, ct4 or 6, Or the dc 400 guitars?

 

[glassjaw7]

What is the difference in sound / playability of the carvin c66 models, ct4 or 6, Or the dc 400 guitars?

I can't comment on all of the tonal differences, but I've played several dc's and a couple 5-string Carvin basses and they felt flawless! Played like butter!

 

[threadkiller]

I've got a DC 125 on the way. Shipped Friday last week. I should get it towards the end of the week! I'll give a report. Never had a carvin but I hear good things like, right up there with Anderson and Suhr, which is a bold statement. Especially at about half the cost.

 

[BeZo]

Any Carvin instrument I have ever touched has played great. Their electronic stuff is a different story. Buy a guitar or bass from them. Don't buy an amp from them unless you want to fix it.

Some of their guitar cabs were pretty nice though.

 

[Audioholic]

I have played a carvin once and it also did play like butta. I ha an amp from them, v3, and it wa built just fine as well. I am a little hesitant cause all guitars play different and it is hard to just pick one and hope for the best. Sure I could ship back but then that is a hassle. Just not sure what to expect in the different models. They all look sexy

 

[tjon]

I would love a CT6. I dont want to know how much a USA made PRS with an ebony fretboard and stainless steel frets would cost.

 

[muudrock]

What is the difference in sound / playability of the carvin c66 models, ct4 or 6, Or the dc 400 guitars?

There are differences, mainly I'm the necks. C66 is 22 fret bolt on, CT4 is set neck 22 fret (available in 24 fret too) and DC series are Neck Thru 24 fret. The neck profile on the CT and DC series is similar while the C66 is a touch thinner front to back. Sound wise, the CT series tend to be warmer sounding with a mid range focus as they are mahogany. C66, being a bolt on has a tighter, snappier sound and the DC series are a good combination of both of those. Nice even sound. The DC and CT are also 25" scale while the bolt ones are 25-1/2".
I currently own all of these models and these are IMO some of the best guitars out there quality and construction wise. Just depends on what you are looking for.

BTW ..Their consistency is awesome from one guitar to the next.

 

[Audioholic]

What is the difference in sound / playability of the carvin c66 models, ct4 or 6, Or the dc 400 guitars?

There are differences, mainly I'm the necks. C66 is 22 fret bolt on, CT4 is set neck 22 fret (available in 24 fret too) and DC series are Neck Thru 24 fret. The neck profile on the CT and DC series is similar while the C66 is a touch thinner front to back. Sound wise, the CT series tend to be warmer sounding with a mid range focus as they are mahogany. C66, being a bolt on has a tighter, snappier sound and the DC series are a good combination of both of those. Nice even sound. The DC and CT are also 25" scale while the bolt ones are 25-1/2".
I currently own all of these models and these are IMO some of the best guitars out there quality and construction wise. Just depends on what you are looking for.

BTW ..Their consistency is awesome from one guitar to the next.

Good info. I have stubby small hands so I don't mind thinner necks. I currently have a prs ce 24 that has been great but needing a new free job soon. The ct series looks much like my prs. I woul get another of that style but just wondering if I should go another route. I have seen some posts say the 400 necks are not as playable as others. Not sure if that is true. I am looking for what may be the best for hard Rock.

 

[Even Bigger D]

Personally, if I had a choice between re-fretting a played out CE24 and buying a Carvin, I'd ship the CE24 off to Best Frets for a stainless steel fret job in a heartbeat.

If you're going to buy a Carvin, I seriously recommend going used. DC series guitars that cost $1500 from Carvin regularly ebay for $700. I wouldn't want to be on the wrong end of that sort of depreciation, but that's just me...

 

[tjon]

Personally, if I had a choice between re-fretting a played out CE24 and buying a Carvin, I'd ship the CE24 off to Best Frets for a stainless steel fret job in a heartbeat.

If you're going to buy a Carvin, I seriously recommend going used. DC series guitars that cost $1500 from Carvin regularly ebay for $700. I wouldn't want to be on the wrong end of that sort of depreciation, but that's just me...

Yeah they go for cheap used but its rare that you find one with all the exact specs you want.

 

[Audioholic]

Yeah I could and probably will refret my guitar at some point, but if you factor in SS frets, and probably new pickups, shipping out the guitar etc. I am up there with cost, and am leaning towards just getting a new guitar, and the more the merrier... right...?

 

[dawnofdreamx97]

my dc127 is my main guitar, i just ordered the cs624 ---- should be here very soon. I like the set neck tone a little more ( i had a cs6 that i sold for the 24 fret version, otherwise i would have kept it) I preferred the tone of the cs6 as it was a little beefier. But there is something about my dc127 that i keep going back to. I really think that the mahogany neck and body combo sounds excellent in there guitars. Gorgeous guitars, totally custom for you , at a fair price, and best return policy in the business. Swap the pickups if your doing metal stuff, otherwise your good to go...

 

[Audioholic]

With the DC400 guitar, it looks to have pretty complicated electronics, phase switch, active EQ etc. I wonder how hard it is to swap out pickups in a guitar like that.

I don't have time to customize a guitar, as in the end I am not that picky to some degree, but here are 3 instock guitars I am looking at, as well as gonna venture to a local music shop and try out some guitars here, as like I said, I so much prefer actually putting my hands on the guitar before buying ya know..

http://www.carvinguitars.com/guitars-in ... rial=97434

http://www.carvinguitars.com/guitars-in ... ial=112337 (which looks so much like my PRS already though)

http://www.carvinguitars.com/guitars-in ... ial=108941

 

[threadkiller]

With the DC400 guitar, it looks to have pretty complicated electronics, phase switch, active EQ etc. I wonder how hard it is to swap out pickups in a guitar like that.

Yikes I wouldn't know what to do with that many knobs and switches.

Glad too hear all the good reports on Carvin. I agree about the resale, but I'm buying it to play and not to flip. It's going to replace or supplement my ibanez which I've had for over 20 years and still going strong after a refret, but I felt I needed to get another locking trem guitar. Keeping a guitar I like for the long haul is pretty normal for me. If you like to flip, I agree, buy used.

With the DC series, or with neck-through guitars in general, I read that the entire guitar tends to sound like the neck wood which is why I had 2 koa stripes put in the 5pc maple neck. Body is Mahogany. Good idea/bad idea?

 

[Audioholic]

With the DC400 guitar, it looks to have pretty complicated electronics, phase switch, active EQ etc. I wonder how hard it is to swap out pickups in a guitar like that.

Yikes I wouldn't know what to do with that many knobs and switches.

Glad too hear all the good reports on Carvin. I agree about the resale, but I'm buying it to play and not to flip. It's going to replace or supplement my ibanez which I've had for over 20 years and still going strong after a refret, but I felt I needed to get another locking trem guitar. Keeping a guitar I like for the long haul is pretty normal for me. If you like to flip, I agree, buy used.

With the DC series, or with neck-through guitars in general, I read that the entire guitar tends to sound like the neck wood which is why I had 2 koa stripes put in the 5pc maple neck. Body is Mahogany. Good idea/bad idea?

Yeah I am not really a guitar flipper, I have had the same PRS ever since I have bought it, and my strat is a keeper to, 0nce I find guitars I like, they stay, which is why I like to try them out ya know. all those switches and knobs look complicated. haha. But I think they are for the active EQ, bass and treble. but still, yikes.

 

[alxdgr8]

DC neck is thinner/faster than the CT neck for sure. I like the CT for rhythm stuff, and the DC for lead. Both are great guitars none the less. The active electronics sound great once you swap out the pickups. I still need to swap neck pickups in my Carvins. The stock neck pickups are definitely more tolerable than the bridge ones so the bridges were the first to get swapped.

 

[crankyrayhanky]

I had an ae for years- killer natural resonance, playability....pickups were shrill. I'd grab another in a heartbeat and throw some BKs in there

 

[Even Bigger D]

Yeah I could and probably will refret my guitar at some point, but if you factor in SS frets, and probably new pickups, shipping out the guitar etc. I am up there with cost, and am leaning towards just getting a new guitar, and the more the merrier... right...?

Yeah - it's all a matter of personal preference of course. I find the DC neck to be too thin for extended use. I get hand cramps sometime in the 2nd set, sort of like a Jackson SL1 or Ibanez wizard neck. The PRS "wide thin" or Fender C profile is just enough thicker that it's not a problem. So that's why I'd re-work the CE instead. But obviously that's just me. Carvin makes a mechanically better than average guitar with tons of options and a specific feel (flat radius, thin, wide, stainless steel shred-o-matic on the DCs) at a fair price with electronics very few people love but some tolerate.

 

[robertkoa]

my dc127 is my main guitar, i just ordered the cs624 ---- should be here very soon. I like the set neck tone a little more ( i had a cs6 that i sold for the 24 fret version, otherwise i would have kept it) I preferred the tone of the cs6 as it was a little beefier. But there is something about my dc127 that i keep going back to. I really think that the mahogany neck and body combo sounds excellent in there guitars. Gorgeous guitars, totally custom for you , at a fair price, and best return policy in the business. Swap the pickups if your doing metal stuff, otherwise your good to go...

Carvins are all really well constructed with great precision and fretwork ( best Jescar brand frets also ).

On neck throughs , though you may want to use a Mahogany or Koa neck since that neck wood will be the main character of the Guitar, and Maple neck throughs can be bright- though people who do Metal sometimes like the tight sound of a Maple Neck thru-especially on 7 strings- but Mahogany's ( or Koa ) more versatile IMO on neck throughs.

So on neck through Carvins with the" standard" default wood being Maple and the standard default wood for fingerboard being Ebony you will end up with a fairly bright sounding Guitar- so I usually recommend Mahogany necks on neck through Carvins. No charge for different fingerboard woods etc. And Mahogany and Koa necks are very inexpensive- Koa usually has deeper tone on a neck thru compared to Maple.REMEMBER only talking about neck throughs here.

Notice above DawnofDreams on his DC127 comments on the Mahogany-I think thinner, brighter with a Maple neck, too thin for many.

The Bolt Ons are similar to Boutique Bolt Ons- real tight neck pockets, good resonance and sustain more than most Bolt Ons- and the same Carvin precision- IF you changed to complete Fender Pickups and pots etc IMO the Carvin Bolt ons would sound just like an extremely resonant Fender.( same scale length and construction etc.)

You can also get Mahogany or Koa Bolt Ons for different "flavors" etc.

Most compare the Carvin Carved Tops to PRS- same 25" scale length and are somewhat similar.

Most say the Carvin Carved Tops are NOT super thick sounding like Les Pauls which are shorter scale, different construction ( neck angle ) and LPs have a thicker body.

Some have put different PAF style pickups on a Carved Top Carvin to get closer to the LP tone but the Carvins Carved Tops are a different animal from Les Pauls- more articulate but a little less chunky.

Carvin makes so many different types of Guitars( Bolt On, Neck Thru,Chambered NeckThru,Set Neck in 2 different scale lengths ) and scale lengths that you have to be "Model Specific" to compare them to others.

 

[threadkiller]

On neck throughs , though you may want to use a Mahogany or Koa neck since that neck wood will be the main character of the Guitar, and Maple neck throughs can be bright- though peopler who do Metal sometimes like the tight sound of a Maple Neck thru-especially on 7 strings- but Mahogany's ( or Koa ) more versatile IMO on neck throughs.

So on neck through Carvins with the" standard" default wood being Maple and the standard default wood for fingerboard being Ebony you will end up with a fairly bright sounding Guitar- so I usually recommend Mahogany necks on neck through Carvins. No charge for different fingerboard woods etc. And Mahogany and Koa necks are very inexpensive- Koa usually has deeper tone on a neck thru compared to Maple.REMEMBER only talking about neck throughs here.

What do you think of maple neck with maple fingerboard but with 2 koa strips on a 5 pc neck through Carvin? Will the koa stripes tame some of the bright or not make much difference? That's how I ordered because I like the look and feel of maple for the for fingerboard but I was afraid all maple would be way bright, even with a mahogany body. I guess I'll have to see on Thursday when it gets here.