Do I sell my Wizard or take Boss to small claims court?

[PBGas]

I used the Waza for the better part of a year with gigs every week regularly with my JP-2C and my BE-50. Never an issue. However, that being said, I did take some readings with various resonance settings with the multimeter and I wasn't sure what I was seeing with the Ohms ratings. Apparently that isn't a correct reading for these (as I was told by one of the reps at Boss) but if the amp is seeing those numbers, then it probably wasn't a great thing for it.

 

[SpiderWars]

Also, for those who didn't read the entire thread Erik said that Wizard said $500 for the OT. The $1,500 part was for Wizard to do a bunch of other work on top of that too ($1,500 - $500 = $1,000) so that was confusing but $500 seems reasonable.

$500 is reasonable, still high but reasonable. But for that other $1k he could practically gut it and rebuild it and still make profit.

But your post does illustrate that there are lots of unknown details. But details that imo should accompany such a high estimate.

 

[journeyman73]

There have been a lot of rumblings about the TAE potentially not being 100% safe, even when compared with comparable devices, with the higher wattage amps.

Take a look at some of the threads across forums, read between some ‘insiders’’ lines, etc and there is some notion of things like this being an elevated risk with the TAE

To be fair, you can also find various threads with other competing options if you look around. Kind of seems to be the nature of the beast. Not sure that I have come across anything legitimately concerning yet other than 2 publicly reported issues with seemingly defective TAE units. I guess defects and unit failures probably happens with every load box to some degree, but the number of TAE units in the wild has to be significantly lower than the alternatives.

What I find to be more tangibly concerning/frustrating though is we still don't seem to have any impedance curve graphs for the TAE to see how real and safe it is or isn't.

True...however, I think the nature of the criticisms of other competing units (ie high-end reactive/reamping devices like the Power Station, Ironman, Suhr RL, Two-Notes, etc) is different.

They tend to center on tonal impact, eq changes, feel - the playability if the units.

The TAE comments I was referring to were regarding safety of the load - and, of course, there will be plenty of successful users...you just dont want to be one of the ones that has an issue with it because the downside is significant.

 

[SpiderWars]

You could take it to a local tech you trust for a second opinion but unfortunately Rick already has it. Then proceed based on the diagnosis.

Makes me wonder if the impedance match for the OT/Tubes/Load is off (for tonal reasons) and that renders it unfit for cranked load box use.

 

[Tiger1016]

There have been a lot of rumblings about the TAE potentially not being 100% safe, even when compared with comparable devices, with the higher wattage amps.

Take a look at some of the threads across forums, read between some ‘insiders’’ lines, etc and there is some notion of things like this being an elevated risk with the TAE

To be fair, you can also find various threads with other competing options if you look around. Kind of seems to be the nature of the beast. Not sure that I have come across anything legitimately concerning yet other than 2 publicly reported issues with seemingly defective TAE units. I guess defects and unit failures probably happens with every load box to some degree, but the number of TAE units in the wild has to be significantly lower than the alternatives.

What I find to be more tangibly concerning/frustrating though is we still don't seem to have any impedance curve graphs for the TAE to see how real and safe it is or isn't.

True...however, I think the nature of the criticisms of other competing units (ie high-end reactive/reamping devices like the Power Station, Ironman, Suhr RL, Two-Notes, etc) is different.

They tend to center on tonal impact, eq changes, feel - the playability if the units.

The TAE comments I was referring to were regarding safety of the load - and, of course, there will be plenty of successful users...you just dont want to be one of the ones that has an issue with it because the downside is significant.

Sorry. I had left out a few important words in what I was trying to say. What I meant was I recall seeing similar threads about issues with the Suhr and Two Notes units. Whether they were an actual damaged amp or speculation/fear about potential damage.

I have a TAE. Was originally going to go with the Suhr RL. Am still thinking about making the switch for a variety of reasons. Cost difference, unused TAE features, maybe tone, maybe safety.

 

[ErikT]

Thanks for the well wishes and everyone's contributions. This is a 4A and 2A fuse amp if I remember correctly, not a 10A.

No way for me to prove I hooked it up correctly. I have used it with my Two Notes on high volume without any trouble.

Sweetwater is looking into further (probably after they saw my IG story saying they should reconsider Boss products lol) so if that is a dead end I'm just gonna sell and cut my losses. Reinvest in some gear flips and work my way back. Definitely the best amp I've ever played through and the sound in my head but these repair costs have me looking elsewhere unfortunately.

 

[stratjacket]

There have been a lot of rumblings about the TAE potentially not being 100% safe, even when compared with comparable devices, with the higher wattage amps.

Take a look at some of the threads across forums, read between some ‘insiders’’ lines, etc and there is some notion of things like this being an elevated risk with the TAE

To be fair, you can also find various threads with other competing options if you look around. Kind of seems to be the nature of the beast. Not sure that I have come across anything legitimately concerning yet other than 2 publicly reported issues with seemingly defective TAE units. I guess defects and unit failures probably happens with every load box to some degree, but the number of TAE units in the wild has to be significantly lower than the alternatives.

What I find to be more tangibly concerning/frustrating though is we still don't seem to have any impedance curve graphs for the TAE to see how real and safe it is or isn't.

True...however, I think the nature of the criticisms of other competing units (ie high-end reactive/reamping devices like the Power Station, Ironman, Suhr RL, Two-Notes, etc) is different.

They tend to center on tonal impact, eq changes, feel - the playability if the units.

The TAE comments I was referring to were regarding safety of the load - and, of course, there will be plenty of successful users...you just dont want to be one of the ones that has an issue with it because the downside is significant.

This makes sense. I would think the safety and reliability of each of these products would be foundational and without question, only the tonal differences would be debated. But as we all know too well defects happen, shit breaks. I would think raising hell with Boss support would be the best way to get anything done in this situation. I don’t see anything else producing any relief.

 

[stanz]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

 

[glpg80]

Makes me wonder if the impedance match for the OT/Tubes/Load is off (for tonal reasons) and that renders it unfit for cranked load box use.

There’s a reactance multiplication factor based on the turns ratio from the primary to the secondary - if there’s any peak on the output, it could cause a large impedance spike on the primary, causing arcing of the tubes or shorting across insulation of the windings causing a whichever fails first scenario. Based on the design of the rest of the amplifier, I’d almost guarantee this is to be a more common cause with non-resistive loadboxes than in prior years.

 

[ErikT]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

 

[SpiderWars]

If it had a loop it would be easy to just put a clean boost in the loop and turn the boost way down. For similar money as the TAE you probably could have had a loop installed. This really sucks you have to punt an amp that got you there.

 

[stanz]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

 

[Dyllheaven88]

I would unload the amp and cut your losses . Should still be able to to get a chunk out of the wiz as is .

 

[Tiger1016]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

Hey man, great that you have figured out what works well for you, and your suggestions for lower watt amps for lower volume uses is certainly a valid idea.

But saying that a load box is not designed to be used to run an amp safely for silent recording or playing and further suggesting that they are instead just for diagnostics and repair is just not correct. Safe and silent amp use is the entire point of a load box and what they were designed for. Being able to use an amp at a lower listening volumes while pushing the power amp harder is the point of an attenuator (or load box with a reamp feature like the Waza). As long as you are properly matching the wattage and ohm compatibility of the load box or attenuator with the amp, you are using it for its intended purpose. Whether any of these options are the best solution is up to the user. They are right for me and others, cool. They are not for you, cool.

 

[stanz]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

Hey man, great that you have figured out what works well for you, and your suggestions for lower watt amps for lower volume uses is certainly a valid idea.

But saying that a load box is not designed to be used to run an amp safely for silent recording or playing and further suggesting that they are instead just for diagnostics and repair is just not correct. Safe and silent amp use is the entire point of a load box and what they were designed for. Being able to use an amp at a lower listening volumes while pushing the power amp harder is the point of an attenuator (or load box with a reamp feature like the Waza). As long as you are properly matching the wattage and ohm compatibility of the load box or attenuator with the amp, you are using it for its intended purpose. Whether any of these options are the best solution is up to the user. They are right for me and others, cool. They are not for you, cool.

Incorrect. The purpose of a load box was/is to test transformers, not getting "cool" Van Halen sounds from your amp. If you want to connect a $3000.00 amplifier to a load box, knock yourself out. Hopefully, the OP has learned his lesson.

If you're going to use a load box, use it with a clone built amp with inexpensive replacement parts.

 

[ErikT]

I used it with the Two Notes Captor just fine. When I had a KSR Gemini that worked great with the Captor as well. The Boss unit was defective. Load boxes can be used for silent recording.

 

[Fordman65]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

Hey man, great that you have figured out what works well for you, and your suggestions for lower watt amps for lower volume uses is certainly a valid idea.

But saying that a load box is not designed to be used to run an amp safely for silent recording or playing and further suggesting that they are instead just for diagnostics and repair is just not correct. Safe and silent amp use is the entire point of a load box and what they were designed for. Being able to use an amp at a lower listening volumes while pushing the power amp harder is the point of an attenuator (or load box with a reamp feature like the Waza). As long as you are properly matching the wattage and ohm compatibility of the load box or attenuator with the amp, you are using it for its intended purpose. Whether any of these options are the best solution is up to the user. They are right for me and others, cool. They are not for you, cool.

Incorrect. The purpose of a load box was/is to test transformers, not getting "cool" Van Halen sounds from your amp. If you want to connect a $3000.00 amplifier to a load box, knock yourself out. Hopefully, the OP has learned his lesson.

If you're going to use a load box, use it with a clone built amp with inexpensive replacement parts.

That's nonsense. Suhr wouldn't make a dedicated IR load box, nor would they incorporate it into an amp if they weren't safe. I get that directly from John Suhr. That said there are crap units out there that should be avoided.
Also, load boxes have nothing to do with getting the VH sound. Maybe you're talking about an attenuator. Very few of those products in production are of high quality IMO

 

[Tiger1016]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

Hey man, great that you have figured out what works well for you, and your suggestions for lower watt amps for lower volume uses is certainly a valid idea.

But saying that a load box is not designed to be used to run an amp safely for silent recording or playing and further suggesting that they are instead just for diagnostics and repair is just not correct. Safe and silent amp use is the entire point of a load box and what they were designed for. Being able to use an amp at a lower listening volumes while pushing the power amp harder is the point of an attenuator (or load box with a reamp feature like the Waza). As long as you are properly matching the wattage and ohm compatibility of the load box or attenuator with the amp, you are using it for its intended purpose. Whether any of these options are the best solution is up to the user. They are right for me and others, cool. They are not for you, cool.

Incorrect. The purpose of a load box was/is to test transformers, not getting "cool" Van Halen sounds from your amp. If you want to connect a $3000.00 amplifier to a load box, knock yourself out. Hopefully, the OP has learned his lesson.

If you're going to use a load box, use it with a clone built amp with inexpensive replacement parts.

Cool man. You got your "opinion" and it is right for you. Everybody else who has bought, used, or manufactured a load box has theirs and it is right for them. You obviously don't care for them yourself. Cool with me. But chill out on the denial about what these products are actually being manufactured and used for.

I'll let the first result in a google search for "what is the purpose of a guitar amp load box" decide this one for us. If you have problems with this broadly accepted notion, feel free to complain to Sweetwater lol.

 

[stanz]

You purchased a Wizard amplifier, and then decided that it needed to be connected to a load-box... Why?

Cause they're brutally loud and I live in a NYC apartment. Was fine with playing it with IRs and headphones as it absolutely crushes. Wanted the TAE to be able to attenuate it to acceptable volumes.

Made my decision.

https://www.rig-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=213927

You should know that a load-box is not designed to be used in this manner, regardless of what BOSS (or any other manufacturer) tells you. They are for diagnostics and repair, not as an "effect" for use with a guitar amplifier. If the Wizard is too loud, why not buy a lower powered amplifier? A 18 watt amp (based on Marshall) is perfect for lower volume play. If you trash a transformer, you're not paying an arm and leg to replace it. A 25 watt Silver Jubilee head w/EQ in the loop would be a good choice. I'm not talking out of my ass here... I've got extensive experience with load box useage, and I'm dead-sure that you can achieve better results using an alternate rig. Keep your Wizard for huge venues.

Why Wizard is hitting you for so much $ on a xformer replacement is a total mystery?

Hey man, great that you have figured out what works well for you, and your suggestions for lower watt amps for lower volume uses is certainly a valid idea.

But saying that a load box is not designed to be used to run an amp safely for silent recording or playing and further suggesting that they are instead just for diagnostics and repair is just not correct. Safe and silent amp use is the entire point of a load box and what they were designed for. Being able to use an amp at a lower listening volumes while pushing the power amp harder is the point of an attenuator (or load box with a reamp feature like the Waza). As long as you are properly matching the wattage and ohm compatibility of the load box or attenuator with the amp, you are using it for its intended purpose. Whether any of these options are the best solution is up to the user. They are right for me and others, cool. They are not for you, cool.

Incorrect. The purpose of a load box was/is to test transformers, not getting "cool" Van Halen sounds from your amp. If you want to connect a $3000.00 amplifier to a load box, knock yourself out. Hopefully, the OP has learned his lesson.

If you're going to use a load box, use it with a clone built amp with inexpensive replacement parts.

Cool man. You got your "opinion" and it is right for you. Everybody else who has bought, used, or manufactured a load box has theirs and it is right for them. You obviously don't care for them yourself. Cool with me. But chill out on the denial about what these products are actually being manufactured and used for.

I'll let the first result in a google search for "what is the purpose of a guitar amp load box" decide this one for us. If you have problems with this broadly accepted notion, feel free to complain to Sweetwater lol.

I still say using a resistive load to simulate the dynamic action of a speaker isn't good, but whatever. Didn't mean to ruffle anyone's feathers. Rock-on!

 

[Texhex]

This thread over on TGP talking about TAE and amp problems. John Suhr chimes in about his RL and ends up modifying the existing spec. to go to 150W. Personally guaranteeing his amps if used with his RL.

I have a Suhr RL and a Captor. Run a DSL100H and Mesa Mark V 90W full blast through them. I have had times when I've been not paying attention and not had the amp cabled into the RL and then turned the amp on and realized later. Just for short time and not at full blast. Not saying user error OP, and it sucks that your amp was damaged. I do worry about using a RL sometimes as there is always the possibility for some damn thing to happen. TAE looks awesome and I almost bought one. It just seems like it has too much baked into it, I know that is the point of the product. I feel pretty safe with the Suhr RL, it's a very "low tech" device and I trust the brand.

https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index ... 74/page-36