thiswaythatway
Well-known member
Peter Diezel":amhr8d26 said:
Looks like I'll be playing an Einstein head on a 2x12 loaded with Scumbacks pretty soon.
Looks like I'll be playing an Einstein head on a 2x12 loaded with Scumbacks pretty soon.
badgergman
Member
I played the old V30 model 3 months and the new K100 this week. K100 definitely better for me. More punch. More controlled bottom end and more response to guitar volume control. Matters not really as I am stuck with this one now. Happily so. Great amp. Played first gig Friday and just blew my mind. All my drive pedals are now surplus it seems!!!
Still want to know how to wire up the footswitch for LEDS though? Peter? help!!!
Still want to know how to wire up the footswitch for LEDS though? Peter? help!!!
elfredoo
New member
come on... don't you think peter has something else to do than help you with your diy-led-project? he's working on a preamp for us...with a creamy lead.... give him a break... for the sake of all of us 
you can browse the web for that... i would help you but have no clue of how to do it. my first guess would be:
- battery supply for leds
- 2 switches with each a double circuit: one for switching, other one for lights (don't know if you can use the switching cuircuit to power your led s)
- 2 leds
you can browse the web for that... i would help you but have no clue of how to do it. my first guess would be:
- battery supply for leds
- 2 switches with each a double circuit: one for switching, other one for lights (don't know if you can use the switching cuircuit to power your led s)
- 2 leds
slyvren
Member
You don't need a battery if the switching line has voltage. IE: My marshall footswitch w/ LEDs doesnt need battery power. You don't need dpdt either. spdt is fine.. just drill a hole add led and resistor. use voltage meter to find out how much power you have.. etc.
look up instructions online.
look up instructions online.
badgergman
Member
I think power is present in the switching line as it was in the older V30 Einstein.
Can't see why its an issue asking for help with my footswitches? I'm confused as to why you would make a amp as high spec as the Einstein and then not put LEDS in the footswitch? I gig a lot and I need to know where my amp is at without having to turn round and look at the thing.....
I think you miss the point here elfredoo, the supplied Diezel f/switches don't have LEDS in them, which I think is just daft. This isn't a DIY project. This is making something happen that should have been present at manufacture.
I will sort it out. Just don't want to do anything that may cause damage.
Can't see why its an issue asking for help with my footswitches? I'm confused as to why you would make a amp as high spec as the Einstein and then not put LEDS in the footswitch? I gig a lot and I need to know where my amp is at without having to turn round and look at the thing.....
I think you miss the point here elfredoo, the supplied Diezel f/switches don't have LEDS in them, which I think is just daft. This isn't a DIY project. This is making something happen that should have been present at manufacture.
I will sort it out. Just don't want to do anything that may cause damage.
slyvren
Member
If you want lights on your switches cough up the $30 or whatever and buy any footswitch that already has lights. Or spend a little more and get the one on eBay from switch doctor. Daft really? Your complaint is like buying a Ferrari and complaining there's no cigarette lighter... It's something you can easily remedy. It's not like the amp isn't one of the best sounding amps on the market. Diezel doesn't even include a footswitch with the vh4 and it's their most expensive amp. I haven't really heard anyone complain.
badgergman":b0rfei43 said:
D
dgaemc2
New member
I own the older closed back Einstein Combo with the Tubelit Reverb Roadie Mod.
Personally, I like the footswitchable modes of Ch1 and footswitchable reverb for Ch1 and Ch2 offered with this mod. Yes, it is true that some compromises in gain settings are necessary to achieve close to balanced volumes when footswitching between all 3 modes of channel 1, but that is also true if you manually switch between the modes as well. IMO, it is not correct to say the mod "creates volume imbalances" between the modes of channel 1. That is just the nature of the beast based on the design......and I am not complaining about it at all either because I like all 3 modes of Ch1 and of course, Ch2!!
Now, that being said, I do require a great clean sound in "mode 1" for a lot of the songs that my band plays, but also really like the "Texas Mode" and "Marshall Mode" offered in Ch1. I do find that a gain setting around 12-1 o'clock offers a fairly good footswitchable balance, but yes it is a compromise when used this way.
Whether or not the mod is worth it to you really depends on how you plan to use it as many others have mentioned. If you are likely to "live" in a particular mode of Ch1....then the mod is probably not worth your while.
Personally, I like the footswitchable modes of Ch1 and footswitchable reverb for Ch1 and Ch2 offered with this mod. Yes, it is true that some compromises in gain settings are necessary to achieve close to balanced volumes when footswitching between all 3 modes of channel 1, but that is also true if you manually switch between the modes as well. IMO, it is not correct to say the mod "creates volume imbalances" between the modes of channel 1. That is just the nature of the beast based on the design......and I am not complaining about it at all either because I like all 3 modes of Ch1 and of course, Ch2!!
Now, that being said, I do require a great clean sound in "mode 1" for a lot of the songs that my band plays, but also really like the "Texas Mode" and "Marshall Mode" offered in Ch1. I do find that a gain setting around 12-1 o'clock offers a fairly good footswitchable balance, but yes it is a compromise when used this way.
Whether or not the mod is worth it to you really depends on how you plan to use it as many others have mentioned. If you are likely to "live" in a particular mode of Ch1....then the mod is probably not worth your while.
badgergman
Member
Will you guys all calm down a bit!!!!
I'm not complaining. I love the Einstein. So far I can honestly say its the best amp I have ever played through or owned. All I wanted was a little help to wire in 3 LED's.... Not asking much really!!! Plus the pregvious Einstein I owned had big bright blue Diezel LED's in the switches which just looked so cool. You can see how I would GAS for that!!!!
I'm no electrician but will get one to look at my footswitches.
Sorry guys if you mis-interpreted my comment.
I'm not complaining. I love the Einstein. So far I can honestly say its the best amp I have ever played through or owned. All I wanted was a little help to wire in 3 LED's.... Not asking much really!!! Plus the pregvious Einstein I owned had big bright blue Diezel LED's in the switches which just looked so cool. You can see how I would GAS for that!!!!
I'm no electrician but will get one to look at my footswitches.
Sorry guys if you mis-interpreted my comment.
slyvren
Member
Hey badgergman,
I wasn't wound up mate. Just a misunderstanding probably because I'm a "yank" and you're a "Brit".
It sounded to me like you were taking a jab at Diezel. I guess I don't understand the problem fully. Then again, I never care what a footswitch looks like. I can understand the need for visual feedback though. There are switches on eBay that have lights and look cool. You could replace the LEDS with blue ones. Good luck!
Switch Doctor:
(no current listings, but they'll be back im sure.)
schematic for your own wiring.
Squiggle lines are 1k resistors and triangle things are the LEDs.
-John
I wasn't wound up mate. Just a misunderstanding probably because I'm a "yank" and you're a "Brit".
It sounded to me like you were taking a jab at Diezel. I guess I don't understand the problem fully. Then again, I never care what a footswitch looks like. I can understand the need for visual feedback though. There are switches on eBay that have lights and look cool. You could replace the LEDS with blue ones. Good luck!Switch Doctor:
(no current listings, but they'll be back im sure.)
schematic for your own wiring.
Squiggle lines are 1k resistors and triangle things are the LEDs.
-John
badgergman":yg3ghdle said:Will you guys all calm down a bit!!!!
I'm not complaining. I love the Einstein. So far I can honestly say its the best amp I have ever played through or owned. All I wanted was a little help to wire in 3 LED's.... Not asking much really!!! Plus the pregvious Einstein I owned had big bright blue Diezel LED's in the switches which just looked so cool. You can see how I would GAS for that!!!!
I'm no electrician but will get one to look at my footswitches.
Sorry guys if you mis-interpreted my comment.
badgergman
Member
Hey John.
Thanks for the info and diagrams. Simple, I think.
Switchdoctor won't ship to the UK unfortunately. Voodooman will but I hope to be able to sort this with my Diezel switches.
I will investigate. Looking forward to 2 gigs this weekend with the Einstein. Most tremendous.
Understood, our cultural divide (and probably just the typed nature of forum chat).
Regards
Thanks for the info and diagrams. Simple, I think.
Switchdoctor won't ship to the UK unfortunately. Voodooman will but I hope to be able to sort this with my Diezel switches.
I will investigate. Looking forward to 2 gigs this weekend with the Einstein. Most tremendous.
Understood, our cultural divide (and probably just the typed nature of forum chat).
Regards
D
dgaemc2
New member
badgerman.....who's wound up?
My post was primarily in response to the OP. He requested feedback regarding the optional mod to Ch1. The Ch1 footswitchable mod works well for me, but clearly isn't needed for many others. No problem....to each their own.
The main point I wanted to make is that the optional Einstein mod which offers footswitchable capability of the Ch1 modes does not "cause" volume fluctuations between the modes of Ch1. Volume imbalances between the 3 modes of Ch1 will likely also occur if one opts to manually toggle between the 3 modes offered in the Einstein while keeping the gain / tone / presence, etc settings the same....that's all.
Cheers
My post was primarily in response to the OP. He requested feedback regarding the optional mod to Ch1. The Ch1 footswitchable mod works well for me, but clearly isn't needed for many others. No problem....to each their own.
The main point I wanted to make is that the optional Einstein mod which offers footswitchable capability of the Ch1 modes does not "cause" volume fluctuations between the modes of Ch1. Volume imbalances between the 3 modes of Ch1 will likely also occur if one opts to manually toggle between the 3 modes offered in the Einstein while keeping the gain / tone / presence, etc settings the same....that's all.
Cheers