Fryette Impedance Matching Amp Switcher

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TheGreatGreen said:
I think it should have included a 2 ohm option. Just about any amp with a 4 ohm or 16 ohm jack will also have an 8 ohm jack to use, but there are amps like old fenders with at an unadjustable 2 ohm out that could have been integrated.
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If I'm reading the webpage right, the 4 ohm option is 4/2 ohms. Fryette has previously said in a video somewhere that a 2 ohm difference is small enough that they can use one setting for both with no issues. So I think that's what they intend here.
 
No shared loop is a miss…even if you wanted to use nothing else but a noise gate.
 
TX6Strings said:
I saw the extra KHE unit you have to buy to share FX loop but $2k’s a lot.
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The comparable unit to the Fryette is the KHE 4x4 ($1,052 on reverb) and with loops 4x4 FX ( $1284). The Fryette is a better buy than the non loop unit, but it’s worth spending a little more for the loops.

If you’re talking about the DeLisle stuff, those are definitely cheaper than the comparable unit/units at KHE, but having to dial through 6 other amps to go from amp 1 to amp 8 is a major pain. Same for the cabs. The KHE gives you direct access with one button push or using midi. That’s worth the extra $ for me. If it’s not necessary for you, then definitely go for the DeLisle
 
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stephen sawall said:
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As much as I’d like to think that’s a tease of the new UL, I’m not sure that’s what it is. It looks more like a pre amp to me. The round grate/vent holes look down on the top of pre amp tubes (not a side view)….not sure how that would be like that on an amp head…. Unless it has a metal housing instead of a wooden head shell
 
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I don't think the loops are important. All of that can be done with other loopers. I already own several.

For me the impedance matching really stands out. The more I think about it the more practical it is.

I want to see the manual.

Anyone know what the "Amp 1-4 Direct" output jack on the back is for ?
 
stephen sawall said:
I don't think the loops are important. All of that can be done with other loopers. I already own several.

For me the impedance matching really stands out. The more I think about it the more practical it is.

I want to see the manual.

Anyone know what the "Amp 1-4 Direct" output jack on the back is for ?
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I wouldn’t be surprised if they’re just line outs.
 
RedB4Black said:
The comparable unit to the Fryette is the KHE 4x4 ($1,052 on reverb) and with loops 4x4 FX ( $1284). The Fryette is a better buy than the non loop unit, but it’s worth spending a little more for the loops.

If you’re talking about the DeLisle stuff, those are definitely cheaper than the comparable unit/units at KHE, but having to dial through 6 other amps to go from amp 1 to amp 8 is a major pain. Same for the cabs. The KHE gives you direct access with one button push or using midi. That’s worth the extra $ for me. If it’s not necessary for you, then definitely go for the DeLisle
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Except for those of us with more than 4 amps.
 
These are just going to be used at people’s homes and studios. I think the loops would be very superfluous. If you’re talking about being able to make instant choices, you’re not gonna want to have a delay dedicated to one amp when you could use it on any one of your amps at a moments notice because you have it in the loop of your attenuator. Just IMO of course.
I have two GCX loop switchers and use one for the power station loop and the other for in-front pedals. Can have any combo I want at the press of a button.
I had a De Lisle but sold it. Would be down for a KHE 8x4 down the road as it’s midi would work with the voodoo lab stuff.
 
Malcontents is on YouTube at 6pm Pacific Time tonight.



If your using a attenuator how is it matching the various impedance of the amps and cabs ?
 
stephen sawall said:
Malcontents is on YouTube at 6pm Pacific Time tonight.



If your using a attenuator how is it matching the various impedance of the amps and cabs ?
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You would either have to switch attenuator settings at each change or go with a generic 8 Ohms for a possible single mismatch either way, which most gear can handle. Heck, a lot of us at one point ran Bassman heads into 16 Ohm Marshall cabs with no problems. At least I did.
I’m surprised someone hasn’t come up with auto detection and subsequent adjustment on impedance yet.
 
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skoora said:
You would either have to switch attenuator settings at each change or go with a generic 8 Ohms for a possible single mismatch either way, which most gear can handle. Heck, a lot of us at one point ran Bassman heads into 16 Ohm Marshall cabs with no problems. At least I did.
I’m surprised someone hasn’t come up with auto detection and subsequent adjustment on impedance yet.
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I asked Steve about it last night on the Malcontents.

PS works properly regardless of amp or cab impedance.

It is designed to be used with units built by other builders. The manual isn't released yet.

There is a new Fryette forum. It's going to be support also. They will be interactive on it.

https://support.fryette.com/
 
stephen sawall said:
I asked Steve about it last night on the Malcontents.

PS works properly regardless of amp or cab impedance.

It is designed to be used with units built by other builders. The manual isn't released yet.

There is a new Fryette forum. It's going to be support also. They will be interactive on it.

https://support.fryette.com/
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Weird. It almost begs the question if it works regardless the setting why put the switches there at all? I’m not sure tube amps feel the same way about it though.
 
As a non-technical non-pro person I’m really confused about the impedance switching. Switching impedance on this unit will sound and feel the same as switching the dedicated impedance output on the amp itself?

My PS-100 has dedicated impedance in and out selector, but it can go in the loop of this unit and it won’t care if the sending and receiving signal are mismatched? I don’t have to also flip the switches on the back of the PS-100 as I cycle through the options?

It is certainly convenient to be able to programmatically switch out from 16ohm to go to an 8ohm cab on the fly but that’s not the same tone and feel as plugging the cab directly into the 8ohm tap of the amp, or is it?
 
Steve talks about it in the Malcontents I posted above. Just past one hour in.

 
skoora said:
Weird. It almost begs the question if it works regardless the setting why put the switches there at all? I’m not sure tube amps feel the same way about it though.
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I'm watching the recording right now. Steve said that if the powerstation input and output impedances are set the same then things will work out fine. I think he said 8 ohms, but I don't think it's restricted to that. I don't know how it works of the top of my head, in fact he mentioned he has a patent pending so won't say much about it yet, but from what he says there is some transformer funny business going on.

Edit: Tired, so it took me a while to notice this. What Steven described could be implemented with two back-to-back impedance transformers and the powerstation in-between, and in that case the Powerstation would need to be set to 8 Ohms in 8 Ohms out. Here's what I'm talking about:

Get two impedance matching transformers. Primary-side has taps for 4, 8, and 16 ohms. Secondary-side has a single 8 Ohm tap. Amp signal goes into the primary side of one, using the correct winding for the amp's impedance. Power station is hooked up to the secondary side of that first transformer, and is set to 8 ohms to match the secondary's 8 ohm impedance, which will result in the amp seeing the correct matching load. Then, the Powerstation's 8 ohm output goes into the 8-ohm secondary of the final transformer, and the cabinet(s) are hooked up to the proper tap (4, 8, or 16 ohms) on the primary side, which means the cab's impedance is matched too. So everything works out.

A shorter way to put it brushing over a few things and using sloppy language is that you convert the signal from whatever impedance the amp wants to 8 ohms, send it into a powerstation set for 8 ohms input, then send the attenuated signal out of the power station set at 8 ohms output, then convert from 8 ohms to whatever the cabinet wants. That way, everything is matched all the way through.

I'm not sure that's how they're doing it, there might be more sophisticated ways, but it is a way I think. I'm pretty tired though so I could be off. Also, as long as your attenuator can be set for 8 ohms in and out, it shouldn't need to be a power station with the above scheme.
 
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I have a probably overly complex system. KHE amp (3 units) and cab selectors (1 unit) with a fryette power station inbetween. Power station loop is sent out to RJM effect gizmos (3) and all controlled with a mastermind. If there’s a cheaper way I’m down.
 
They also announced the new GP/DI is coming out. It's a complete rebuild.

They also mentioned they will be talking about the UL II soon.

Sounds like they are going to have a lot of new products soon and they set up the forum for better support.

Steve also mentioned they got twice as many orders for the ZMACS as was built in the first run. Because of public interest they will be looking into building more that is similar.

Personally I am interested. But I quit using multi-amp rigs live about 15 years ago. I don't see me taking three amps and several cabs to a show anymore.

Last show I did all gear was provided for the entire band. I brought guitar picks. Gig before that I brought the THD Univalve and a Orange 1x12 cab.
 
stephen sawall said:
They also announced the new GP/DI is coming out. It's a complete rebuild.

They also mentioned they will be talking about the UL II soon.

Sounds like they are going to have a lot of new products soon and they set up the forum for better support.

Steve also mentioned they got twice as many orders for the ZMACS as was built in the first run. Because of public interest they will be looking into building more that is similar.

Personally I am interested. But I quit using multi-amp rigs live about 15 years ago. I don't see me taking three amps and several cabs to a show anymore.

Last show I did all gear was provided for the entire band. I brought guitar picks. Gig before that I brought the THD Univalve and an Orange 1x12 cab.
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I remember, even in my 20’s, doing the two half stack thing with an a/b/y switcher and within two gigs I was fuck this shit. Too much gear. The thought of doing that now would be horrifying 😂
 
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