
FourT6and2
Well-known member
Worth it? Nobody seems to have 'em in stock. Haven't seen them for a while. Are they slowing trickling out or is there some current delay?
It seems like they can be a little hard to get a new one towards the end of the year (it was the same last year for me).Worth it? Nobody seems to have 'em in stock. Haven't seen them for a while. Are they slowing trickling out or is there some current delay?
Yep for sure, a PPIMV is way down my list of effective ways to tame a NMV amp.I haven’t compared it to any others but it’s nicer than using the ppimv.
Worth it if you have amps that rely on the output stage working hard to sound good, and you want to use them down to TV volume.
If you want to knock say up to 12dB off, a quality attenuator does the job very well - with less hassle and expense. We did a long and boring video on attenuators vs. the power station if you're feeling masochistic: Attenuator shootout
If you're a man of fine tastes and not on a thrifty budget then yeah, a PS sounds like it would be a worthwhile addition.My amps all have master volumes that work fairly well, but I live in an apartment. And it'd be nice to get the amps cooking a bit more and then use something like the power station to bring the volume down so I don't piss my neighbors off. One of my amps (Mako Dorado) needs the master to be up fairly high because the tone stack and NFB circuit are a bit interactive. My other amps are Bogner Helios and a Jose mod 800 I built. That said... being able to put time-based effects AFTER the power section would be dope. So the loop on the power station might be worth it.
No, just different. They both colour the sound a little so it's just a preference thing - besides the added horsepower and features of course.The 100 sounds better than the 50?
ROFL, I'd take any of the stores listed over friggin guitar center...I try not to buy from Reverb. This thing is carried in stores like GC, Musician's Friend, Sweetwater, Zzounds, etc. But I suppose I could call up those stores listing it on Reverb and buy direct.
I like this idea and I believe it wholeheartedly; but I’m too stupid to understand it. My brain doesn’t work like this. I’m a better plumber than electrician. So when it comes to power, bias, tubes etc , I just use something that sounds good enough to me then fiddle with the preamps that I have for color. Maybe I could get my sound right with 1 power and pre- if I had an electrical/physics mind. Instead I use 2 preamps and 2 power amps all the time and add a 3rd for solos. It works. Probably overkill BUT.Since discovering cathode bias and low B+ grid bias with severe underbias, I don’t think I’ll be needing a PS.
My Rivera M60 is 440v but has a half power switch that knocks it down to 220v B+. I run the bias up to 32 watts at idle (maxed) in Hi power which yields 14 watts per tube in Lo power. This gets that classic addictive EVH tonality even at whisper levels, and the heaters/preamp tubes are all at nominal current/voltages too. Amp still gets plenty loud to jam with a band as well, even in triode mode!
High idle bias seems to be the real key to power amp tone and vibe at any volume. I encourage all my bros here to try this or get a cathode bias amp like an Orange Terror/Rocker 30 and get that resistor value right.
The Rivera even has a resistor padded down lo Z line out from the speaker jack I use to slave it to an old silver stripe Peavey Transtube. It’s the wet amp for delay/modulation.
I swear guys, once you get into low voltage high bias land, there’s no going back.