IntenseJim
Active member
Elegant ane beautiful. That would go great in my house!
guitarmike
Well-known member
Looks real nice!
G
GtarLover
Well-known member
Really nice Bob.
I want to do something similar, gives me good ideas.
Well done
I want to do something similar, gives me good ideas.
Well done
Michi
Active member
Really nice work Bob ! Thx for them pics too!
2
21_guitars
New member
Looks great! What's that cabinet off to the right, looks like an old radio?
TheSneakyTruth
Member
Wow that's pretty, definitely puts my el cheapo rack to shame! How long did it take you to do?
PeteLaramee
Well-known member
That looks great Bob. The finish, the angle, the spacing...very professional. I wish I had it in my basement.
9ball
New member
I don't like the idea of leaving guitars hanging from the neck. Something about the weight of the body all pulling.on the neck joint bothers me lol
gibson08
Well-known member
Very nice Bob, Looks like a high end music store! Looks like you have room for one more Tele and one more LP!! 
B
Bob Savage
Well-known member
Thanks guys, appreciate the kind words.
Yep, I bought an 8 pack of hangars before I realized I was going to build a 10 guitar rack. I don't have any other guitars at the moment but I'm going to grab a couple more matching hangars pretty soon.
Yep, simple project without the use of the CNC at all. Chop saw, table saw, router (by hand for the back panel and table router for brackets) and cordless screw gun/drill.
Let me know if you have any questions when you're ready to start.
It's an old Wurlitzer jukebox.
Never know, but not anytime soon because I've run out of big ticket items to sell off in order to fund other equipment.
PBGas":1vmf14cf said:Quality work and idea! Nicely done!
Looks like there is room for a couple more perhaps?
Thx for sharing!
Yep, I bought an 8 pack of hangars before I realized I was going to build a 10 guitar rack. I don't have any other guitars at the moment but I'm going to grab a couple more matching hangars pretty soon.
Mudder":1vmf14cf said:
Yep, simple project without the use of the CNC at all. Chop saw, table saw, router (by hand for the back panel and table router for brackets) and cordless screw gun/drill.
GtarLover":1vmf14cf said:
Let me know if you have any questions when you're ready to start.
21_guitars":1vmf14cf said:
It's an old Wurlitzer jukebox.
gibson08":1vmf14cf said:Very nice Bob, Looks like a high end music store! Looks like you have room for one more Tele and one more LP!!
Never know, but not anytime soon because I've run out of big ticket items to sell off in order to fund other equipment.
mixeduplydian
New member
Looks Fantastic!
Question: Did you stain it after it was assembled, or did you stain everything first and then assemble it? Just curious because everything looks nice and even color-wise and I'm wondering which way would work better for staining.
Question: Did you stain it after it was assembled, or did you stain everything first and then assemble it? Just curious because everything looks nice and even color-wise and I'm wondering which way would work better for staining.
BeZo
Well-known member
That is cool.
B
Bob Savage
Well-known member
mixeduplydian":1v1o40l8 said:Looks Fantastic!
Question: Did you stain it after it was assembled, or did you stain everything first and then assemble it? Just curious because everything looks nice and even color-wise and I'm wondering which way would work better for staining.
Good question. I assembled it and then stained.
R
rp108
New member
Looks awesome. Exactly what I want to do.
mixeduplydian
New member
Thanks for the info Bob! It really does look elegant and professional. The angle you have on the hangers does a nice job of showing off the instruments and saving some extra space at the same time. I think I may build one for myself. I could reclaim some lost floor space that I desperately need back! Would you mind posting measurements? Not yours, but the guitar rackBob Savage":3vs7mjyi said:mixeduplydian":3vs7mjyi said:Looks Fantastic!
Question: Did you stain it after it was assembled, or did you stain everything first and then assemble it? Just curious because everything looks nice and even color-wise and I'm wondering which way would work better for staining.
Good question. I assembled it and then stained.
B
Bob Savage
Well-known member
mixeduplydian":2v885uvf said:Would you mind posting measurements? Not yours, but the guitar rack
Phew! I got a little worried there. Wouldn't want you guys to think any less of me than you already do.
I'll get you some measurements a little later.
glassjaw7
Well-known member
Nice job Bob! Very purdy!
sixstringking713
New member
steve_k
New member
Looks awesome, Bob.
B
Bob Savage
Well-known member
Sorry this took so long. Here are some basic instructions I threw together today. If anything is missing or seems wrong, let me know. I banged it out quickly.
So it looks like the formatting below is a bit whacked but I can't seem to attach a word doc either because the extension isn't supported. If you want a copy in Word format send me a PM.
Materials
4/4” curly Maple (I used soft as a cost saving measure)
8/4 Poplar
Backing Board
• 112” x 4-7/8” x ¾” (technically it’s a 4/4 plank and is .82” thick)
Hangar brackets (10 pieces)
• 1-3/4” thick (made with 8/4 plank)
• 9” on long end, cut at 30 degree angle
• Mounted to backing board with both glue and with three 2-1/4” wood screws (from back side)
• 11” center to center spacing between brackets
Basic instructions:
• Determine length of wall area for installation to determine width of backing board and how many hangers you’ll be installing
• Measure and document center to center stud dimensions.
o Note: This must be fairly precise and be careful of tolerance buildup if you’re measuring from one center to the next otherwise you could end up missing studs since the hole pattern is pre-drilled before mounting brackets and finishing. I recommend measuring your center to center from one stud to the next, left to right and then also measure the distance from the first stud center on the left to each subsequent stud and then validate your measurements. This is a measure 4 times cut/drill once type of project.
• Cut backing board to size
• Cut brackets to size
o I recommend cutting the angle on a chop saw initially instead of cutting rectangle pieces and then adding the angle however, for ease of routing the round over on the edge, it may be simpler for some to cut them slightly oversized (9.25” length) without the angle, then route the edges before adding the angle because the angle does add a routing challenge because the bearing roller loses its edge on the shorter side of the piece (difficult to explain this).
• Drill stud holes in backing board (three 2-1/4” screws per stud)
• Drill bracket holes (three 2-1/4” screws per bracket)
• Sand all surfaces on brackets and backing board except the mating surface of the brackets and back or the backing board
• Routing (1/4” round over)
o Backing board should be hand routed (table will be a pain to do)
o Brackets should be routed on table router
o Gentle sand on routed edges where/if necessary (careful!)
o Note: If you want a larger round over you’ll need to use a larger backing board otherwise your hangers may protrude over the routed edges
• Mount hangar brackets (be careful to put them on straight and don’t make a mess with the glue in areas that will be exposed)
o
• Finish to taste (below is what I did)
o Stain with General Finishes Vintage Cherry dye stain and then light sand
o Two coats of lacquer sanding sealer with light sand in between
o Dark Red Mohagany toner around edges of brackets and backing board
o Two coats of semi-gloss lacquer with light sand between first and second coat (I used scotchbrite)
The last step is to mount the assembled and finished piece. The top edge of mine is about 8.5” from the ceiling and is enough space even for the pointy headstock of an old-school BC Rich bass. Install the guitar hangars on the brackets.
Mounting consideration: You will mount the hangars on the side of the brackets that are facing out. Think about which way you want the brackets to face so that the guitars are best displayed for the room.
So it looks like the formatting below is a bit whacked but I can't seem to attach a word doc either because the extension isn't supported. If you want a copy in Word format send me a PM.
Materials
4/4” curly Maple (I used soft as a cost saving measure)
8/4 Poplar
Backing Board
• 112” x 4-7/8” x ¾” (technically it’s a 4/4 plank and is .82” thick)
Hangar brackets (10 pieces)
• 1-3/4” thick (made with 8/4 plank)
• 9” on long end, cut at 30 degree angle
• Mounted to backing board with both glue and with three 2-1/4” wood screws (from back side)
• 11” center to center spacing between brackets
Basic instructions:
• Determine length of wall area for installation to determine width of backing board and how many hangers you’ll be installing
• Measure and document center to center stud dimensions.
o Note: This must be fairly precise and be careful of tolerance buildup if you’re measuring from one center to the next otherwise you could end up missing studs since the hole pattern is pre-drilled before mounting brackets and finishing. I recommend measuring your center to center from one stud to the next, left to right and then also measure the distance from the first stud center on the left to each subsequent stud and then validate your measurements. This is a measure 4 times cut/drill once type of project.
• Cut backing board to size
• Cut brackets to size
o I recommend cutting the angle on a chop saw initially instead of cutting rectangle pieces and then adding the angle however, for ease of routing the round over on the edge, it may be simpler for some to cut them slightly oversized (9.25” length) without the angle, then route the edges before adding the angle because the angle does add a routing challenge because the bearing roller loses its edge on the shorter side of the piece (difficult to explain this).
• Drill stud holes in backing board (three 2-1/4” screws per stud)
• Drill bracket holes (three 2-1/4” screws per bracket)
• Sand all surfaces on brackets and backing board except the mating surface of the brackets and back or the backing board
• Routing (1/4” round over)
o Backing board should be hand routed (table will be a pain to do)
o Brackets should be routed on table router
o Gentle sand on routed edges where/if necessary (careful!)
o Note: If you want a larger round over you’ll need to use a larger backing board otherwise your hangers may protrude over the routed edges
• Mount hangar brackets (be careful to put them on straight and don’t make a mess with the glue in areas that will be exposed)
o
• Finish to taste (below is what I did)
o Stain with General Finishes Vintage Cherry dye stain and then light sand
o Two coats of lacquer sanding sealer with light sand in between
o Dark Red Mohagany toner around edges of brackets and backing board
o Two coats of semi-gloss lacquer with light sand between first and second coat (I used scotchbrite)
The last step is to mount the assembled and finished piece. The top edge of mine is about 8.5” from the ceiling and is enough space even for the pointy headstock of an old-school BC Rich bass. Install the guitar hangars on the brackets.
Mounting consideration: You will mount the hangars on the side of the brackets that are facing out. Think about which way you want the brackets to face so that the guitars are best displayed for the room.