How to set up a Les Paul

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The straight edge is great, but to make things easier you can just use the E string. Put a capo on the first fret (or a rubber band) and hold the E string down on the last fret. I've got it to where I can set the relief by eye (and ear).
 
LP Freak":1motio28 said:
The straight edge is great, but to make things easier you can just use the E string. Put a capo on the first fret (or a rubber band) and hold the E string down on the last fret. I've got it to where I can set the relief by eye (and ear).
I use my fingers. I can eye it very close but I like it perfect.
 
glip22":3r1fjio7 said:
LP Freak":3r1fjio7 said:
The straight edge is great, but to make things easier you can just use the E string. Put a capo on the first fret (or a rubber band) and hold the E string down on the last fret. I've got it to where I can set the relief by eye (and ear).
I use my fingers. I can eye it very close but I like it perfect.
Me too. :lol: :LOL: As you know though, a gauge is great but the ear tells the real story. :thumbsup:
 
All of theinfo was extremely helpful. Only issue I'm having is a buzz on the low E when played open. I can get rid of it with truss rod adjustment but it makes the action ridiculous. Not sure what to do.
 
bbaug14":2ja8jwmo said:
All of theinfo was extremely helpful. Only issue I'm having is a buzz on the low E when played open. I can get rid of it with truss rod adjustment but it makes the action ridiculous. Not sure what to do.
Your nut slot is too low. Fret each note in between the 2nd and 3rd frets with one hand. Eye the guitar up at the 1st fret. While you are fretting between the 2nd and third push down at the first for each string. You should have a hair of space in between the string and first fret. I am sure your Low E does not have it. Here's a trick that will save you from replacing the nut if you do not want to drop down in string gauge a little. Take crazy glue and carefully add a little to the Low E nut slot. Do it in small increments until you have a hair of space with the above procedure. I bet that will fix it. You want your neck to at least .009-.010.
 
I have not had a LP since the early 1970s and just got an R7. It has been very stable as far a tuning goes and it is stock with thwe nylon nut. I'll be having Michael Tuttle put a bone nut on it soon, but it is just as stable as more 4 stoptail PRS, and they are very stable. So, so far, so good!
 
LP Freak":2khbtlzq said:
The straight edge is great, but to make things easier you can just use the E string. Put a capo on the first fret (or a rubber band) and hold the E string down on the last fret. I've got it to where I can set the relief by eye (and ear).

What does this mean? If you fret the first and last on a string then the string should be touching all other frets too? Or shouldn't be? Also, what did you mean by eye and ear? Remember, I'm new to this set up stuff!!! :lol: :LOL:
 
bbaug14":1eaa5p2u said:
LP Freak":1eaa5p2u said:
The straight edge is great, but to make things easier you can just use the E string. Put a capo on the first fret (or a rubber band) and hold the E string down on the last fret. I've got it to where I can set the relief by eye (and ear).

What does this mean? If you fret the first and last on a string then the string should be touching all other frets too? Or shouldn't be? Also, what did you mean by eye and ear? Remember, I'm new to this set up stuff!!! :lol: :LOL:
The freboard isn't supposed to be straight all the way up. There should be a slight underbow. When you hold down the first and last fret there should be a slight gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string. That's called relief.
 
LP Freak":21l6bx3m said:
bbaug14":21l6bx3m said:
LP Freak":21l6bx3m said:
The straight edge is great, but to make things easier you can just use the E string. Put a capo on the first fret (or a rubber band) and hold the E string down on the last fret. I've got it to where I can set the relief by eye (and ear).

What does this mean? If you fret the first and last on a string then the string should be touching all other frets too? Or shouldn't be? Also, what did you mean by eye and ear? Remember, I'm new to this set up stuff!!! :lol: :LOL:
The freboard isn't supposed to be straight all the way up. There should be a slight underbow. When you hold down the first and last fret there should be a slight gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string. That's called relief.

Okay, that's what I thought. I've got that going on right now. I guess my biggest issue is that I set up the neck with the truss rod but I'm not sure how I'm supposed to adjust the bridge after that. I adjust the truss rod so their is a slight underbow and I try to do so such that there is no buzzing on the strings, but after that I'm not sure how I should be adjusting the bridge to get the best set up.

Also, does anyone know where a good place is to buy the measuring device (gauge) for doing this? I tried Guitar Center today (which didn't have power, awesome) but my guy there said they didn't sell it. So, I've basically been trying to do all this by eye and loosening and re-tightening the strings.
 
Stewart MacDonald has all of that stuff, and you can order it on line. If you order something from them or sign up for their newsletters, you will get periodic set-up tips via email. There are other vendors for this type of stuff, too.
 
bbaug14":w9zvd6ly said:
LP Freak":w9zvd6ly said:
bbaug14":w9zvd6ly said:
LP Freak":w9zvd6ly said:
The straight edge is great, but to make things easier you can just use the E string. Put a capo on the first fret (or a rubber band) and hold the E string down on the last fret. I've got it to where I can set the relief by eye (and ear).

What does this mean? If you fret the first and last on a string then the string should be touching all other frets too? Or shouldn't be? Also, what did you mean by eye and ear? Remember, I'm new to this set up stuff!!! :lol: :LOL:
The freboard isn't supposed to be straight all the way up. There should be a slight underbow. When you hold down the first and last fret there should be a slight gap between the top of the fret and the bottom of the string. That's called relief.

Okay, that's what I thought. I've got that going on right now. I guess my biggest issue is that I set up the neck with the truss rod but I'm not sure how I'm supposed to adjust the bridge after that. I adjust the truss rod so their is a slight underbow and I try to do so such that there is no buzzing on the strings, but after that I'm not sure how I should be adjusting the bridge to get the best set up.

Also, does anyone know where a good place is to buy the measuring device (gauge) for doing this? I tried Guitar Center today (which didn't have power, awesome) but my guy there said they didn't sell it. So, I've basically been trying to do all this by eye and loosening and re-tightening the strings.
I picked up a 6" metal rule from Ace Hardware that measures in 32nds and 64ths for about 3 bucks.
 
I bought a set of feeler gauges from Napa Auto Parts store for $5 and a ruler from a hardware store for about another $5. I did buy a couple of nut files from Stew Mac for the G and B strings though. Those two were binding on both of my LP's.
 
you can get a 1/64 sized rule at just about any hardware store. i believe i got mine at sears, or a local hobby store. it's important to ALWAYS write down ALL measurements before you start (ie, pickup height low and high with strings fretted at the 22nd fret, bridge height, tailpiece height, relief at 7th and 9th fret, height at 12th fret <unfretted>, and, what gauge strings are on it).

when i put 10-46 strings on my les pauls, they usually measure about 16-18/64ths on the sides of the bridge when im looking for 4-5/64ths at the 12th fret...and 20/64 when im looking for 6/64 at the 12th (which is usually my D drop C tuned axes, or sometimes lower with a 10-52 set on there).
you can pre set the bridge and tailpiece once you get the hang of setting up the individual axes and figure out what action works for you. also, even tuned to pitch, you SHOULD be able to raise (kinda hard) and lower your bridge with your fingers (your tune-o-matic bridge if you have one, can be adjusted by hand, i dont use pliers).

2007-12-01_GibsonLesPaulFaded_02_.jpg

right on the side of the bridge you can set the rule next to it and measure.

when adjusting your truss nut, after you preset your bridge, an easy way to tell how much "play" is in each neck after you tune to pitch, give each string a preliminary stretch, tune back to pitch on all 6 strings, then fret the D or G string at the 22nd fret. you can use that as a straight edge (if you dont have one) now, keep that 22 fretted (a capo REALLY helps) with your guitar in the playing position and the truss wrench on the nut, be prepared to ONLY turn about 1/3 a whole turn, no more though, yet. if it's super tight, DONT tighten it more, it can snap off, and you're SOL. if it's loose as a goose, or is turning with minimum effort, well, count your turns...either way, count your turns. turning away from you should loosen the truss, thereby creating relief, turning towards the low strings should straighten the neck and reduce the relief (i forget what it's called). also, some necks love a really loose truss nut, some you would think wont straighten out until you have it pretty snugged up.

once you get a hint of relief at 7-9 frets (i usually like about 2-3/32 under my G string at the 9th fret, and your bridge should be pre-set correctly as stated above, on newer frets, you should be seeing around 4/64 unfretted at 12th fret on the low e, and 4-5/64 at the 12th fret on the high e.

some people tighten the tailpiece down all the way, i'm one of them, as, i like the increased sustain it seems that i get...and, i understring my LP's (through the tailpiece backwards, up and over the tailpiece, then over the bridge, up to the nut, thru the tuning peg).

there are several different ways to string and wind on the tuning peg, i go through, then under, then over...hard to explain, but, it looks like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xh77SRuLPsE

good luck, stretch your strings, and be prepared to make adjustments on the fly.
there are a lot of good tips in this thread. one of my secrets to long string life is graph tech saddle string savers and nut sauce, or, a pencil ran back and forth along the nut grooves.

i like my screws on my tuning posts winders to be tight....it helps keep that notorious g string les paul syndrome under control.

something to keep in mind too, if you live in a climate like pittsburgh that is pretty humid and has pretty drastic seasonal changes like we do here, you'll probably notice your guitar's action is going to "float" a bit throught the year....this is normal.

when i do my seasonal set up (usually december or january and june/july) i remove all strings after i measure, and let the neck settle without strings on it. you can do this by hanging it on a guitar stand, or sitting it in a stable chair (leaning face against the chair, headstock pointing straight up in the air....but no pressure or "lean" on the neck).
i call this, letting my neck breath. it's just something i like to do. some people would tell you to NEVER leave a neck naked like that, but, like i said, to each his/her own.

good luck with it. learning to setup and take care of your axes is a well rewarding labor of love, and you'll thank yourself for learning how to do it. if you get mad, or get stuck, or frustrated, take a break...come back to it a bit later.


good luck

G

ps, wow, sorry for that big ass bridge pic..but, right along side that, straight up and down is where you would measure.
 
yeti":3chciqwc said:
when i put 10-46 strings on my les pauls, they usually measure about 16-18/64ths on the sides of the bridge when im looking for 4-5/64ths at the 12th fret....

So what you are saying is you adjust the bridge to get the measurement you want at the 12th fret? Does your bridge height typically match on both the low and high E side? The reason I ask is mine was way higher on the low E side when I got it back the last time I had it set up.


yeti":3chciqwc said:
you can pre set the bridge and tailpiece once you get the hang of setting up the individual axes and figure out what action works for you. also, even tuned to pitch, you SHOULD be able to raise (kinda hard) and lower your bridge with your fingers (your tune-o-matic bridge if you have one, can be adjusted by hand, i dont use pliers).....

Yeah, I have a tune-o-matic that I can adjust by hand. How do you set the tailpiece up correctly? Currently, mine is set up such that the high E side is lower than the Low E side and neither is all the way down.

yeti":3chciqwc said:
when adjusting your truss nut, after you preset your bridge, an easy way to tell how much "play" is in each neck after you tune to pitch, give each string a preliminary stretch, tune back to pitch on all 6 strings, then fret the D or G string at the 22nd fret. you can use that as a straight edge (if you dont have one) now, keep that 22 fretted (a capo REALLY helps) with your guitar in the playing position and the truss wrench on the nut, be prepared to ONLY turn about 1/3 a whole turn, no more though, yet. if it's super tight, DONT tighten it more, it can snap off, and you're SOL. if it's loose as a goose, or is turning with minimum effort, well, count your turns...either way, count your turns. turning away from you should loosen the truss, thereby creating relief, turning towards the low strings should straighten the neck and reduce the relief (i forget what it's called). also, some necks love a really loose truss nut, some you would think wont straighten out until you have it pretty snugged up.

once you get a hint of relief at 7-9 frets (i usually like about 2-3/32 under my G string at the 9th fret, and your bridge should be pre-set correctly as stated above, on newer frets, you should be seeing around 4/64 unfretted at 12th fret on the low e, and 4-5/64 at the 12th fret on the high e.

I'm going to pick up a feeler gauge and a ruler that measures 64s tonight and give this a try and see what I come up with. I'm afraid I'm going to get these measurements, get a ton of buzz, adjust, and be way off. lol
 
Some people set their action so the low E is slightly higher than the high E. I set them both a 4/64th. And that measurment is from the top of the fret to to bottom of the string.

For the tailpiece, just snug it down to the body on both sides and you'll be fine.

Don't be afraid of it buzzing. The measurements aren't magical numbers. You'll have to fine tune every guitar. Remeber too, after you make an adjustment in one area you might have to go back and tweek the other areas until they all work.

When ajusting the truss rod, only make 1/4 turn adjustments at a time and then check it. 1/4 turn can make a big change on the neck.

Give it a try and if there's problems we'll walk you through it. Seems there's plenty if willing help here. :thumbsup:
 
wow, you guys are really bringing it today. there are some outstandingly informative posts in this thread for the les paul players.

personally, i havent ever had to adjust the truss rod...but it seems to have just a hair of relief when i check it (capo at 1st fret, hold down last fret, check at 7th).

my string height is at about 4.5/64ths on the low E string, and about 3/64ths on the high E. with this setup, i can hear a little string buzz unplugged...but its not enough to affect the amplified sound much.

the toughest thing for me, with my les paul, is getting the EMG 85 in the neck position to sound good without being too bassy. good grief, does that pickup have a ton of low end. switching from the 81 in the bridge to that guy is hard to manage with my amps. when i set the EQ for a decent clean with the 81, it is complete mud and boom with the 85. :confused:

-russell
 
When you measure to the bridge, do you measure to the bottom of the tune-o-matic nut, or to the bottom of the actual bridge above that?
 
glip22":1mtb8gae said:
I alway start with .009 at the 7th fret with a straight edge down the entire board length in between the D and G strings checking the space with a feeler gauge. I then set the bridge height. A good neck and frets should allow you to set your action a little bit over 4/64ths at the last fret on the low E and 3/64th on the high E with no buzz, .

I bought a feeler gauge but I'm not positive how to use it from what you are saying. Should I fret the G string at the 22nd and then adjust the truss rod so that the G string barely touches the 0.009 feeler gauge at the 7th fret? The reason I ask is that it seems very close this way. Thanks!
 
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