Just Got my Musikraft Charvel Neck

[SpiderWars]

So what is the deal with aged oil? I've used straight TruOil and also Walnut-colored Danish Oil followed by TruOil. Even the Walnut Danish Oil doesn't add a ton of color. I recently did a quickie on this cheap Chinese bass, it was really pale before.

 

[scottosan]

Tru oil can build up quick in used to use it then moved to Watco.

 

[SpiderWars]

Tru oil can build up quick in used to use it then moved to Watco.

Yep, I did that on my first one. It feels more like thin lacquer than oiled. But if you wipe all of it off after every application and use Turpentine to thin/clean makes a big difference. I did a faceplate for my IIC+ cabinet and just kept wet sanding with TruOil thinned with Turpentine and it literally feels like glass it's so smooth (not what most people go for on a guitar neck). Some people like it really raw feeling and some like it super smooth, I like it somewhere in between (similar to Chubtone although I don't think he uses TruOil, you can't even buy it in CA I don't think).

 

[PDC]

This is a beautiful neck. I have ordered 4 necks through Musikraft for projects requiring 2-1/4” Charvel Heel widths (which Warmoth cannot accommodate) and each one has been nothing short of excellent. FWIW Warmoth’s ‘standard thin’ contour is very close Musikraft’s 79/85 Pro Mod - and it does feel really nice all the way up the neck. I am partial to the 81/81 Pro Mod - Thin without feeling Ibanez Wizard thin.

 

[Racerxrated]

Looks fantastic! Can't wait for the finished product, that's gonna be a beautiful axe.

 

[scottosan]

Got the aged nicked hardware installed just have to age the screw heads a bit one final assembly and setup complete. I’m stocked so far!!

 

[SpiderWars]

Looks great!

I was looking at KnE site and saw this about bridges and neck angle:

All bodies can be cut for a floating tremolo (pull up and dive) upon request. However we recommend against this. If you want more versatility with your new guitar it is best to have it cut for a NON-Floating tremolo. If you want it to float you can shim the neck at the heel end. this way you can always change it back to non-floating.

Do you know if shimming is required for floating trems with pretty much all the aftermarket parts mfrs?

And do you have a preference for shims?

 

[Monkey Man]

So beautiful, mate.

Borderline-speechless beautiful.

 

[paulyc]

Looks great!

I was looking at KnE site and saw this about bridges and neck angle:

All bodies can be cut for a floating tremolo (pull up and dive) upon request. However we recommend against this. If you want more versatility with your new guitar it is best to have it cut for a NON-Floating tremolo. If you want it to float you can shim the neck at the heel end. this way you can always change it back to non-floating.

Do you know if shimming is required for floating trems with pretty much all the aftermarket parts mfrs?

And do you have a preference for shims?

I'd rather NOT use shims, better for the neck pocket angle to be cut for a floating tremolo (IMHO), you can always block it if you don't want it to float.

 

[scottosan]

Looks great!

I was looking at KnE site and saw this about bridges and neck angle:

All bodies can be cut for a floating tremolo (pull up and dive) upon request. However we recommend against this. If you want more versatility with your new guitar it is best to have it cut for a NON-Floating tremolo. If you want it to float you can shim the neck at the heel end. this way you can always change it back to non-floating.

Do you know if shimming is required for floating trems with pretty much all the aftermarket parts mfrs?

And do you have a preference for shims?

He does offer recess with no pocket angle. I prefer the top mount with pocket angle and no shim

 

[SpiderWars]

Gotcha. I need to play a few recessed Floyds before I build another just to be sure. It's been forever and a day since I played one.

 

[crankyrayhanky]

 

[JackTripper]

Looks great.

A brass string tree would be a nice finishing touch if you are going all in for a pre-pro vibe. Floyd's were aftermarket.

 

[scottosan]

Looks great.

A brass string tree would be a nice finishing touch if you are going all in for a pre-pro vibe. Floyd's were aftermarket.

This is really a hybrid build. Cosmetically like the nitro series with floyd, neck radius straight 12” like the older ones.

 

[GreatRedDragon]

Looks great!

I was looking at KnE site and saw this about bridges and neck angle:

All bodies can be cut for a floating tremolo (pull up and dive) upon request. However we recommend against this. If you want more versatility with your new guitar it is best to have it cut for a NON-Floating tremolo. If you want it to float you can shim the neck at the heel end. this way you can always change it back to non-floating.

Do you know if shimming is required for floating trems with pretty much all the aftermarket parts mfrs?

And do you have a preference for shims?

I have a Kne SD body and ordered it with a flat pocket. With my Floyd decked (don't care for floating) the action was sky high, so I shimmed it with a .5 degree StewMac shim. That mostly fixed it, but I'm thinking of adding another shim to get the action even lower.

Were I to build another guitar I'd just get it with the angled pocket and block the trem in the cavity.

 

[scottosan]

Looks great!

I was looking at KnE site and saw this about bridges and neck angle:

All bodies can be cut for a floating tremolo (pull up and dive) upon request. However we recommend against this. If you want more versatility with your new guitar it is best to have it cut for a NON-Floating tremolo. If you want it to float you can shim the neck at the heel end. this way you can always change it back to non-floating.

Do you know if shimming is required for floating trems with pretty much all the aftermarket parts mfrs?

And do you have a preference for shims?

I have a Kne SD body and ordered it with a flat pocket. With my Floyd decked (don't care for floating) the action was sky high, so I shimmed it with a .5 degree StewMac shim. That mostly fixed it, but I'm thinking of adding another shim to get the action even lower.

Were I to build another guitar I'd just get it with the angled pocket and block the trem in the cavity.

a flat pocket angle should only be used if you have a recessed Floyd. With the angled pocket, a top mount Floyd will be pretty close to flush with the body without the need for shins or a block. Most builders have the angles pretty locked in.

 

[PDC]

Those Stew Mac shims are SO worth the cost. In ‘theory’ the 1* shim is ideal for a non recessed Floyd on a body with a flat neck pocket. But get the set with a .25, a .5 and a 1* shim and you have multiple options - including stacking the .25 and the .5 where the full 1* fells like a bit too much. They are machined so accurately and the full-area thickness makes for solid neck to pocket contact.

 

[scottosan]

Those Stew Mac shims are SO worth the cost. In ‘theory’ the 1* shim is ideal for a non recessed Floyd on a body with a flat neck pocket. But get the set with a .25, a .5 and a 1* shim and you have multiple options - including stacking the .25 and the .5 where the full 1* fells like a bit too much. They are machined so accurately and the full-area thickness makes for solid neck to pocket contact.

I still question why someone would order a non-recessed Floyd route and not have the pocket angled? What would be the benefit?

 

[SpiderWars]

Those Stew Mac shims are SO worth the cost. In ‘theory’ the 1* shim is ideal for a non recessed Floyd on a body with a flat neck pocket. But get the set with a .25, a .5 and a 1* shim and you have multiple options - including stacking the .25 and the .5 where the full 1* fells like a bit too much. They are machined so accurately and the full-area thickness makes for solid neck to pocket contact.

I still question why someone would order a non-recessed Floyd route and not have the pocket angled? What would be the benefit?

Lots of situations where it is not a new build.

 

[scottosan]

Those Stew Mac shims are SO worth the cost. In ‘theory’ the 1* shim is ideal for a non recessed Floyd on a body with a flat neck pocket. But get the set with a .25, a .5 and a 1* shim and you have multiple options - including stacking the .25 and the .5 where the full 1* fells like a bit too much. They are machined so accurately and the full-area thickness makes for solid neck to pocket contact.

I still question why someone would order a non-recessed Floyd route and not have the pocket angled? What would be the benefit?

Lots of situations where it is not a new build.

I still don’t get it. In either bridge route you can always raise the bridge, but are limited on a non recess by the bridge being flush. With a flat pocket, a non recessed Floyd will have higher action than if the pocket was angled. Once it bottoms out you have to shim to lower action. I’ve never had to shim a guitar with a Floyd. On the other hand vintage type trems usually don’t need an angled pocket