Low level power tube saturation

  • Thread starter Thread starter peter_traj
  • Start date Start date
P

peter_traj

New member
Hi folks,
Im new here because i just got my first Egnater amp (MOD50) today. I live in Australia. Iam considering puttingjj 6v6's in the power stage to get a 4watt head. Then, i should be able to saturate the power stage without using an attenuator, and without blowing my eardrums out. Have any MOD50 owners tried using the jj 6v6's?

Thanks
 
peter_traj":32qu7b0o said:
Hi folks,
Im new here because i just got my first Egnater amp (MOD50) today. I live in Australia. Iam considering puttingjj 6v6's in the power stage to get a 4watt head. Then, i should be able to saturate the power stage without using an attenuator, and without blowing my eardrums out. Have any MOD50 owners tried using the jj 6v6's?

Thanks
Click to expand...
I know a lot of us have :). I have a set of JJ 6v6's sitting in my drawer since I tried them. They work just fine, but I didn't like the sound of them compared to the TS 5881's and the 6550s I have in there right now. For me, this amp really sounds good at all volumes, so I really didn't need to push the power tubes to max to get the best tone out of it. I use the 25 watt setting a lot, and it sounds amazing at like 10 oclock.

Eric
 
You you'd be surprised how good it sounds at low volumes regardless of the tubes. Like all amps it'll sound better when loud, because you have the speakers moving some more air, but in this amp it goes from good/great --> amazing; as opposed to other amps that are only usable at loud volumes.I actually even use the high setting even at very low volumes, I like the feel of it a little more, but they're both cool.
 
I concur as well. The JJ 6V6 is actually a great sounding tube. I'm only using them at the moment because I've had to replace my 6550s which I quite prefer over the 6V6. At low volumes you will still definately hear the specific characteristics of a certain tube type. Like Eric, I love the 6550s best so far. Depending on you personality you may now be susceptible to tube-GAS.

With this amp, you will not need high volumes to sound good.

Michael.
 
Thanks guys,
So i guess forget the jj's then.

Does anyone know at what setting the power tubes start to break up with the stock valves? I cant tell as my bedroom is so small and i cant crank it past 9 oclock. I am thinking of put a THD Hoteplate on it. Has any one used this attenuator and how did it perform?
Thanks again for the advice .
 
peter_traj":252n87xj said:
Thanks guys,
So i guess forget the jj's then.

Does anyone know at what setting the power tubes start to break up with the stock valves? I cant tell as my bedroom is so small and i cant crank it past 9 oclock. I am thinking of put a THD Hoteplate on it. Has any one used this attenuator and how did it perform?
Thanks again for the advice .
Click to expand...

I think youve got to get it to about 2oclock before the power tube saturation becomes noticable. Then between 2 and 3 oclock is where the amp really gets obscenely good sounding. So much higher than 9 oclock That is with tung sol 5881s at high power though. But Ive got to say, I think a hot plate is a waste of money with the MOD 50. Its just not needed. The tone is so good at low volumes as it is. Use that cash and get another module instead.
 
EWSEthan":3ckz7qli said:
peter_traj":3ckz7qli said:
Thanks guys,
So i guess forget the jj's then.

Does anyone know at what setting the power tubes start to break up with the stock valves? I cant tell as my bedroom is so small and i cant crank it past 9 oclock. I am thinking of put a THD Hoteplate on it. Has any one used this attenuator and how did it perform?
Thanks again for the advice .
Click to expand...

I think youve got to get it to about 2oclock before the power tube saturation becomes noticable. Then between 2 and 3 oclock is where the amp really gets obscenely good sounding. So much higher than 9 oclock That is with tung sol 5881s at high power though. But Ive got to say, I think a hot plate is a waste of money with the MOD 50. Its just not needed. The tone is so good at low volumes as it is. Use that cash and get another module instead.
Click to expand...

+1 I never have felt the need for a hot plate with the Mod50. If you need a bedroom amp, then get a Rebel!

Eric
 
aeroic":1zx3f798 said:
EWSEthan":1zx3f798 said:
peter_traj":1zx3f798 said:
Thanks guys,
So i guess forget the jj's then.

Does anyone know at what setting the power tubes start to break up with the stock valves? I cant tell as my bedroom is so small and i cant crank it past 9 oclock. I am thinking of put a THD Hoteplate on it. Has any one used this attenuator and how did it perform?
Thanks again for the advice .
Click to expand...

I think youve got to get it to about 2oclock before the power tube saturation becomes noticable. Then between 2 and 3 oclock is where the amp really gets obscenely good sounding. So much higher than 9 oclock That is with tung sol 5881s at high power though. But Ive got to say, I think a hot plate is a waste of money with the MOD 50. Its just not needed. The tone is so good at low volumes as it is. Use that cash and get another module instead.
Click to expand...

+1 I never have felt the need for a hot plate with the Mod50. If you need a bedroom amp, then get a Rebel!

Eric
Click to expand...
Did someone say Rebel? :lol: :LOL:
 
That's a main reason why I decided to make the switch from a Bogner Shiva to a Mod50.

The Mod50 sounds GREAT at any volume level.

The Shiva only sounded good cranked.

A hotplate would not be worth the money. The master volume is great... put that $260 towards a new module instead! :thumbsup:
 
I agree, I didn't find myself wanting an attenuator with the mod50, it sounds good even at low volumes. What modules are you using so far, and have you already tried using it as is?
 
Hi,
I have the DLX, the SL 2, and the COD. i just have no idea how they sound together with "power tube distortion" as i cant get it that loud. That's why i was contemplating the attenuator. But if you guys reckon there aint much difference, then ill be saving my money.
BTW, what is the difference between the older DLX and the T/D?

Thanks guys
 
peter_traj":3jp5byxx said:
Hi,
I have the DLX, the SL 2, and the COD. i just have no idea how they sound together with "power tube distortion" as i cant get it that loud. That's why i was contemplating the attenuator. But if you guys reckon there aint much difference, then ill be saving my money.
BTW, what is the difference between the older DLX and the T/D?

Thanks guys
Click to expand...

The DLX has the same sounds on both ChA and ChB. ChB seems to have slightly more gain, (at least with my ears :) ).

The T/D is a really high headroom clean tone (ala Fender Twin) on ChA, and the normal ChB of the DLX on ChB of the T/D. The clean tone is a really nice clean tone. I personally like the DLX more than the T/D, which is why I have a T/D for sale. But for someone that wants more diverse tones, the T/D is amazing. I'm just a nut for the DLX :).

Eric
 
Thanks Eric,
You know what. After playing around with the modules i have, i think i want to try them all--or HAVE them all. Is it possible to "link" an M4 to a MOD50 and have 6 foot switchable modules ?

Peter
 
HI Peter, looks like u scored Justins Eggie! congrats mate...im 1 hr south of Sydney if u want to try a vox and a t/d module. An I can try the COD :D ..Macka
 
Hey Maca,
I live in Wollongong. Give me your phone number. We must get together and compare modules--my place or yours--i don't care. If its your place --ill bring the beer!!! And yes, it is Justin's Egnater, Justin from Bendigo.

Please reply.
 
yeah you can run a m4 and a mod50 together but not without additional gear, you'll need a switcher/looper but it wouldn't be hard. The E2, which is a one rack space, 2 module, version of the m4 will have a loop and so you can use that without any additional gear.
 
Congrats on the amp. ENJOY!!! No bad advice here. Save your money, buy more modules. The general consensus is the best all around tubes are ...

Tung Sol 5881 = Grand Champion
EL34 types = I love the Tung Sol EL34B and we have good word on Mullard reissue and Winged C.
6550 = mighty fine
6V6 = a cool and unique little Fender voicing that can work well for vintage and mid gain tones.
KT77 = seem to be big with the mega high gain sound.

Did I get that right guys?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top