LUV U LONG TIME...

  • Thread starter Thread starter NowYou'rePlayingWithPower
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DanTravis62 said:
I couldn't agree more :dunno: I am one of the biggest pickup corksniffers on the planet, and I think a bunch of the carvin pickups sound great, full stop

I think it's honestly a psychosomatic thing

"This guitar is less expensive than it should be, as an american made guitar, therefore they had to cut costs somewhere, therefore they must have used shitty pickups"

Wherever Carvin/Kiesel were cutting costs, it certainly wasn't the pickups, because a bunch of them i've heard sounded bad-fucking-ass.

And being as i'm one of those insane people who can hear the difference between different models and magnets in blind tests, I think there's probably some mental gymnastics going on with everyone who switched them out on their Carvin/Kiesels.

I can certainly understand if you wanted a very specific tone out of the guitar, but in a lot of cases I think it was purely a mental thing.
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Sorry for the misinformation. Y'all made me want to play it so I dug it out. It's a SSH.
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Erock said:
I've been doing the warm up thing the last couple years, it's something I never used to think about. I've been looking at those weird slanted fret guitars and the frets that look like Tetris blocks. Do they actually make it any easier on the wrists?
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Yes and no. IMO, they're better tools for a specific job, but make others harder.
Like if you want a lead solo guitar, your neutral/zero/parallel fret should be as close to the nut as possible so that the sweep is steep by the time you get to the high frets. These are the rarest. The neutral point being around 7-9th frets are going to be the most versatile, but at the same time a neutral around 3-5 is going to be the most relaxed for "cowboy chords" So, really you need three of them to replace on regular guitar, imo. But each one is going to be better than the regular parallel frets in specific use cases while being harder in other uses if that makes sense.
 
NowYou'rePlayingWithPower said:
Yes and no. IMO, they're better tools for a specific job, but make others harder.
Like if you want a lead solo guitar, your neutral/zero/parallel fret should be as close to the nut as possible so that the sweep is steep by the time you get to the high frets. These are the rarest. The neutral point being around 7-9th frets are going to be the most versatile, but at the same time a neutral around 3-5 is going to be the most relaxed for "cowboy chords" So, really you need three of them to replace on regular guitar, imo. But each one is going to be better than the regular parallel frets in specific use cases while being harder in other uses if that makes sense.
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interesting, I'm going to look into it a little deeper. I'm ok with cowboy cords down low, wrists are fine as I can wrap my thumb. It's the rest that gives me problems. Thanks Lisa. :cheers:
 
DanTravis62 said:
That is such a Dan guitar, I fucking love it dude. Just pure simplicity, all the features you need and no features you don't.

Let me know if you ever get rid of it :ROFLMAO:
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My longtime guitarist ( another St. Louis Jap incidentally) and best friend already has called dibbs on it brother, sorry.

When I got this guitar I had it shipped to my parent's house because I was living in I think a van. I was never notified it was shipped. I showed up over there one day for some unrelated thing and there was a triangle box that said Carvin on it just leaning up against the wall by the front door.. :oops:

This guitar has never once needed a neck adjustment. I think I've only had to adjust the intonation once. Craziest fucking thing I've ever seen. Super low action.
 
Erock said:
interesting, I'm going to look into it a little deeper. I'm ok with cowboy cords down low, wrists are fine as I can wrap my thumb. It's the rest that gives me problems. Thanks Lisa. :cheers:
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If that's a path you look into, would recommend checking out those with more basic scales like 24.75-25.5. The main purpose of them is for more even string tension and slightly more accurate intonation for the scale to tuning. So obviously the longer the scale the longer the stretch. A side effect of them is more comfortable wrists, imo, in specific areas. Worse in others.
 
Floyd Eye said:
My longtime guitarist ( another St. Louis Jap incidentally) and best friend already has called dibbs on it brother, sorry.

When I got this guitar I had it shipped to my parent's house because I was living in I think a van. I was never notified it was shipped. I showed up over there one day for some unrelated thing and there was a triangle box that said Carvin on it just leaning up against the wall by the front door.. :oops:

This guitar has never once needed a neck adjustment. I think I've only had to adjust the intonation once. Craziest fucking thing I've ever seen. Super low action.
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I would like second right of refusal if he doesn't take you up on it :ROFLMAO:
 
NowYou'rePlayingWithPower said:
If that's a path you look into, would recommend checking out those with more basic scales like 24.75-25.5. The main purpose of them is for more even string tension and slightly more accurate intonation for the scale to tuning. So obviously the longer the scale the longer the stretch. A side effect of them is more comfortable wrists, imo, in specific areas. Worse in others.
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thanks Lisa, will keep that in mind. Honestly though, at this age, it doesn't bother me too much to look like a dork, lol. :LOL:
 
Floyd Eye said:
My longtime guitarist ( another St. Louis Jap incidentally) and best friend already has called dibbs on it brother, sorry.

When I got this guitar I had it shipped to my parent's house because I was living in I think a van. I was never notified it was shipped. I showed up over there one day for some unrelated thing and there was a triangle box that said Carvin on it just leaning up against the wall by the front door.. :oops:

This guitar has never once needed a neck adjustment. I think I've only had to adjust the intonation once. Craziest fucking thing I've ever seen. Super low action.
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Just a heads up from what I know of and experienced the late 90s/early 00s had wonky truss rods. Loosen it always before tightening it.
Don't ask me how I know. o_O
 
NowYou'rePlayingWithPower said:
Just a heads up from what I know of and experienced the late 90s/early 00s had wonky truss rods. Loosen it always before tightening it.
Don't ask me how I know. o_O
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The first thing I did when I got this guitar was change strings. I took them all off at the same time. When I strung it back up it had went slack and buzzed like a mother fucker. I turned it 1/4 turn and everything was perfect again. I've never had to touch it since. I also change strings on it one at a time. The relief is still perfect to this day. Damn near dead flat with just a touch of relief up by the nut.
 
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