Mods for my 2204 build - switchable JEL and #34?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ledvedder
  • Start date Start date
ledvedder said:
I've been doing a lot of searching, trying to find some thoughts and opinions about this method. I'm not finding many good things about it.
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What do you mean?

Splawn, Cameron, Laney, and many others are based upon plate fed tonestacks and turning the CF stage into a normal gain stage.

At the end of the day it’s your amp and you can modify it to your hearts content how you prefer.

I’m just trying to give you something that once completed, will have all the gain you need and still sound like a stock Marshall but with way more gain on tap - because it basically is - all other stages virtually untouched. It will take pedals like a stock one and sound great.

At least try it. I’ve not steered you wrong on anything else and it allows for the rest of the amp to remain untouched.

After you get it working, you can do a depth mod and put in the headfirst loop.
 
I just gotta figure out how to shoehorn all this stuff in here!
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Can I use a different value cap besides 0.047? I don't have one, and I hate paying $10 shipping for 1 part.
 
I'm thinking this, since I have screw in turrets I can add...

Move the 500pF cap to the right, and angle the 33k down to it.

Put the 1.5k where the 500pF was.

Put the 330k/1M divider to the left of the 820/0.68.

Then, I just have to do the 2 caps and 2 plate resistors on the tag strip.
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PDC said:
With guys like this on this forum, I am astonished that Cameron amps are still a thing. There are some serious amp builders / modders here at RT.
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Not to hijack the thread, but yea... pretty much. It's because there's mystique around some builders. And their fanboys believe that even if someone else wires up an amp with the same exact schematic/components, that somehow it will sound different. Because a certain someone's magical '80s shred sweat isn't all over the resistors. There's an entire generation of Ceriatone fanboys, for example, that think the HRP clones he builds are actually the originals. Because they've never heard of Cameron of Fortin. And when you tell them hey... those are just clones taken from incorrect schematics floating around the web, they think you're trolling. And they defend their brands to the death. Can't argue with 'em. Can't educate 'em. Just gotta shrug your shoulder and do your own thing.

This stuff really is super simple. There are amp companies out there who have 3 of the same EXACT amp model. But they'll change the slope resistor and the depth cap value, and call it a new amp. And fanboys used to fork over $$$$$$ for the latest amp model. When really, they could just learn to solder and swap the 10-cent resistor themselves at home and have a brand new $3,000 amp!

Anyway... rant over.
 
FourT6and2 said:
Not to hijack the thread, but yea... pretty much. It's because there's mystique around some builders. And their fanboys believe that even if someone else wires up an amp with the same exact schematic/components, that somehow it will sound different. Because a certain someone's magical '80s shred sweat isn't all over the resistors. There's an entire generation of Ceriatone fanboys, for example, that think the HRP clones he builds are actually the originals. Because they've never heard of Cameron of Fortin. And when you tell them hey... those are just clones taken from incorrect schematics floating around the web, they think you're trolling. And they defend their brands to the death. Can't argue with 'em. Can't educate 'em. Just gotta shrug your shoulder and do your own thing.

This stuff really is super simple. There are amp companies out there who have 3 of the same EXACT amp model. But they'll change the slope resistor and the depth cap value, and call it a new amp. And fanboys used to fork over $$$$$$ for the latest amp model. When really, they could just learn to solder and swap the 10-cent resistor themselves at home and have a brand new $3,000 amp!

Anyway... rant over.
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Don't forget the $10 shipping charge for that 10 cent resistor 😂
 
FourT6and2 said:
Not to hijack the thread, but yea... pretty much. It's because there's mystique around some builders. And their fanboys believe that even if someone else wires up an amp with the same exact schematic/components, that somehow it will sound different. Because a certain someone's magical '80s shred sweat isn't all over the resistors. There's an entire generation of Ceriatone fanboys, for example, that think the HRP clones he builds are actually the originals. Because they've never heard of Cameron of Fortin. And when you tell them hey... those are just clones taken from incorrect schematics floating around the web, they think you're trolling. And they defend their brands to the death. Can't argue with 'em. Can't educate 'em. Just gotta shrug your shoulder and do your own thing.

This stuff really is super simple. There are amp companies out there who have 3 of the same EXACT amp model. But they'll change the slope resistor and the depth cap value, and call it a new amp. And fanboys used to fork over $$$$$$ for the latest amp model. When really, they could just learn to solder and swap the 10-cent resistor themselves at home and have a brand new $3,000 amp!

Anyway... rant over.
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Based
 
Ok, here's what I've worked out so far for a layout. Let me know if you think there's a better way. Obviously, nothing is trimmed or soldered yet. I also don't have the plate resistor on the tag strip yet.

Left to right, bottom up...

- 1M, 330k, 0.022uF cap > into 100k on tag strip > v2a plate

- 680r/0.68 v2a cathode

- 1.5k v2b cathode

- 500pF, 33k, 0.044uF cap (2x0.022) > into 220k on tag strip > v2b plate

20220902_204120.jpg
 
Man you’re gonna fire this thing up and after checking voltages (just like you did for every pin before) and verifying everything is happy, I’m really looking forward to what you think. Obviously it’s a starting point so you can tune from there (caps across the 330k, resistors across the 1M, caps across the 1.5k, and/or resistors across the 1.5k)

Once you have it dialed in I doubt you’ll want to touch the cold clipper.

Looking good!
 
glpg80 said:
Man you’re gonna fire this thing up and after checking voltages (just like you did for every pin before) and verifying everything is happy, I’m really looking forward to what you think. Obviously it’s a starting point so you can tune from there (caps across the 330k, resistors across the 1M, caps across the 1.5k, and/or resistors across the 1.5k)

Once you have it dialed in I doubt you’ll want to touch the cold clipper.

Looking good!
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I hope so! Do you think my layout scheme is the most optimal?
 
You decided to go with 0.68uf and 620 ohm cathode for the normal 820 ohm stage?
 
ledvedder said:
I hope so! Do you think my layout scheme is the most optimal?
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Any layout scheme that can squeeze it in will work. As long as you’re careful to keep wires away from those flying lead caps you’ll be fine and stable. Wires crossing over or near caps can cause noise/feedback.

Looks good!
 
Make sure the two caps in parallel aren’t rubbing against that left stand-off. I’d make sure they’re as vertical/on top of one another as possible so that you’re not relying on the outter shield for decoupling or have a potential rub point for arcing down the road.
 
glpg80 said:
Make sure the two caps in parallel aren’t rubbing against that left stand-off. I’d make sure they’re as vertical/on top of one another as possible so that you’re not relying on the outter shield for decoupling or have a potential rub point for arcing down the road.
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I was going to heat shrink them before I solder them in.
 
I was try the figure a way to get the 2 plate resistors on the board too, but I can't figure anything out.
 
Do you think these plate resistors will be ok here if I heatshrinked them?
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