Well all "schematics" aside good luck sourcing parts if you were going to make one.
People can't even get original replacement parts the way it is.
You can't even fine the original ABS type battery doors. Yes i know there are composite replacements but not the same.
A 35 year old Rockman is actually quite serviceable.
The main issues that plague the average Rockman X100
1) scratchy switches and jacks -> Clean all switches and jacks with DeoxIT D5
2) no power ->clean/replace battery contacts or replace power supply
3) floor noise/dull chorus -> Replace ALL capacitors
4) alkaline battery leakage -> in minor cases, soldering some jumper wires; in more serious cases the damage may require a donor board
5) EMI/RFI issues -> clean/repair the shielding tape at battery PCB ground pin (both sides)
The ICs and other components in the photo above are all easy to identify. Except for the electrolytic caps that dry out in just about every electronic device these days, the other components have proven to be very stable thanks in part to robust engineering.
If you do need a new headphone amp IC for example, the LM386N-1 audio amplifier (2x) is still available from suppliers like Digikey. The same goes for the TL072CP op-amps (10x) used throughout the design. Note that he first generation Rockman used a different op-amp which was a noisier component. I'm not sure about the IIB...
NEW Replacement parts ( available as of Nov 2021 )
Flex cable:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384339964285
Metal "Activator" Switch plate:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194358179443 (not for X100)
Headphone jack:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384291897450
Power jack:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384291986430
Battery PCB springs:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194357945001
Battery door contacts:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194357950162
Battery door ( complete )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/353779889893
Power Supplies
Re-capped Regulated Power Supply:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384539828447
Upgraded Power Supply:
http://www.b5amps.com/B5_Amplification/Rockman_Solutions.html
OEM Switches from CW (Charles Wirt) Industries
2-position (ON/OFF)
Original:
https://switches-connectors-custom....iniature-slide-switches-swidget-2/gi-152-0081 (Mouser# 629-GI-152-0081)
Longer knob:
https://switches-connectors-custom....iniature-slide-switches-swidget-2/gi-152-0079 (Mouser #629-GI-152-0079)
3-position (CHORUS & ECHO, "VOL")
Original:
https://switches-connectors-custom....iniature-slide-switches-swidget-2/gi-154-0007 (NLA)
Longer knob:
https://switches-connectors-custom....iniature-slide-switches-swidget-2/gi-154-0006 (Mouser #629-GI-154-0006)
4-position (DIST EDGE1 CLN 2)
Original:
https://switches-connectors-custom....iniature-slide-switches-swidget-2/gi-159-0024 (Mouser# 629-GI-159-0004)
Longer knob:
https://switches-connectors-custom....iniature-slide-switches-swidget-2/gi-159-0004 (Mouser# 629-GI-159-0024)
X100 caps for DIY'ers
QTY / Value / Rating / Leadspacing / Dimensions (H x D)
(5) 220uF 16v S: 4.0mm H: 12.0mm D: 8.0mm
(1) 10uF 35v S: 2.0mm H: 11.0mm D: 5.0mm
(4) 3.3uF 50v S: 2.0mm H: 11.0mm D: 5.0mm
(1) 22uF 50v S: 2.0mm H: 11.0mm D: 5.0mm
As with any electrolytic cap replacement job, it will go easiest if you select capacitors that:
- have the same lead spacing so the wires can easily go through the holes in the PCB
- have the same height and diameter so that they don't interfere with other components and seat properly
There are hundreds of brands/lines of capacitors to choose from. This kit has already figured out which ones fit and they are the Nichicon brand which is well respected:
Recap kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384383023412
Headphones
As with any walkman type headphones from the 80's:
- foam is usually toast and can be sourced via AliExpress, eBay, etc.
- the solder joints at the drivers were poor to begin with. Fortunately they are easy to remove. Use solder wick to clean, and use flux when you re-solder.
- you can cut the rubberized jack open with an X-Acto knife and repair the connections or just replace the jack all together.
- the cable may have a broken connection in the middle from cord wrapping or abuse, so test for that, also.
The original headphones had 32 ohm drivers so that's what you are looking for at the jack after you fix and test their impedance.
Frankly there are a lot of better modern day options for headphones. While, anything will work but the audio will shine if you stick with 32 ohms. 63-250 ohms and even higher will result in a loss of volume.