Need a little help... need a little bit more.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hey_bert_whtcha_doin_bert
  • Start date Start date
Hey_bert_whtcha_doin_bert

Hey_bert_whtcha_doin_bert

Active member
I THINK I had a preamp tube short out and may have caused some damage. I turned my amp on two days ago and had a very faint signal, took a new pre and went swapping, found out it was v-3 the amp worked again. However, it now sounds harsher and when switching through the channels, channel 1 is fine, channel 2 has a very faint metallic ping, and channel 3 has a thump/pop sound. The old tube in v-3 did look like the glass got hot between the upper two spacers(chinese tube, one spacer on the bottom of the plates two on top). So if someone could help me with some troubleshooting that'd be nice, I can't afford to ship it to Salwender as of right now. Hopefully I can fix it myself and it's just a resistor or something.

Thank you,

-Nick
 
Nick,

tubes sound very different, also from the same brand.
Try an othe preamp tube first.
 
Unfortunately I have :no: , I still don't know why it would be pinging and popping on the OD's when switching though? It's really bad on OD3 and less noticeable on 2... very small ring/ping sound.
 
I had that same problem with switching i sent my amp to the my tech and he told m it was some mute switching circuit and he is waiting for somebody from diezel to call him. I could be wrong though iam not a amp tech.
 
I think something happened in v-3 and is causing a static build up, it would make sense seeing as each tube amplifies the next up to v-1 and the tube behind v-3 is v-2(third channel tube). I think I had a bad short in that tube and it took a resistor out, however I need guidance for what to look for. I'm however not certain as I'm not an amp tech but I am slightly familiar with amp circutry.
 
Well, take a pic of the internal socket V3 (although I doubt its a resistor or the cathode cap) and if possible make a clip.
 
I'll work on a pics when I get some batteries tonight, I can't do a clip though, we're done in the studio with guitars and that would have been my only shot, no other means now. At least I got my tracking done so I don't really need it for a bit now.


Best I can describe it (100% sure it's not the pre tubes because they're known good tubes) Channel 2 gives a pingy/ringy sound like tapping on a tube with a faint pop, not as loud in general as channel 3. Channel 3 does a thump/pop without the ring, channel 1 does nothing as far as strange noises while switching and the whole amp is cold/harsh/slightly muddier sounding on the OD's although it's probably happening on the clean too it's just more apparent on the OD channels. I just opened up the amp and have a few caps that MIGHT be questionable. They look like the insides are swelling out of one end(not bad just a little) as well as they are connected to the preamp area, at least it looks that way. One that has a red wire running along the loom to the switchable loop and one that is next to a twin cap, that looks normal, that is next to the output transformer area. Incidentally it looks like it has a wire running to the v-3 area. When I get pics I'll post them. :dunno: I also need to add the pre tubes furthest of v-1 seem hotter than normal to the touch.

I dunno and thanks very much,

-Nick
 
Wow! i have that same problem with mine i hope its nothing to bad. but like i said mine is in the shop getting fixed.
 
Well here's the pic, unfortunately with my phone, I can't find my usb cable for my camera :( , if these aren't good enough I'll try to borrow someones as soon as I can, as far as I can tell it looks like it might be those caps, v-3 area looks ok, at least nothing burnt. Sorry for the shitty photo's but thanks so much for any help.

Redcircledproblem.jpg


closeupoftwincaps-1.jpg


singlecapcloseup.jpg


v-3closeup.jpg
 
I've been doing some research and found out those aren't supposed to be like that, that's the electrolytic seeping out. So what do I need to do, besides obviously replace them. Like, should I do any check ups to see if anything else got hurt and what those check ups would be and will I void my warranty if I do it, as well is this a warranty part? Also, these going bad, would that have done what I described? Kinda just need to be told what to do...I'm clueless. :confused:

Thank you,

-Nick

P.S. I seem to have a really well layed out Herbert, very nice wiring job, they're all nice but this one seems to have gotten that extra bit of love :yes: (at least out of the three guts I've seen), sounds like it too, shame the caps went bad, I hope that's all, it appears to be.
 
Hey_bert_whtcha_doin_bert":15ht0nqk said:
Unfortunately I have :no: , I still don't know why it would be pinging and popping on the OD's when switching though? It's really bad on OD3 and less noticeable on 2... very small ring/ping sound.
Click to expand...

Ringing comes from V1
 
We had a few troubles with a bad bunch of caps.
If You want to be save, You can replace it.
It´s a 22µ/500V type.
 
Would they cause a similar problem to what I described? If they wouldn't, then it's not the tubes I would guess, because I've had every spare tube I've got in those slots. What else should I look for, I mean I know for sure I'll have to replace the caps because they shouldn't have the insides swelling out.


When replacing them do I have to redo that silicon or whatever that is underneath them and whats an easy way to replace the zip ties with the board in place? Also do I have to bring the voltage up slowly, because if I do I'll have to wait to get money for a tech as I don't have a variac, which will suck.

Sorry for the long posts, I realize there's a language barrier and I'm not exactly the best at my own language so it probably makes it harder, heh heh, I really appreciate your help very much.

Thank you Peter,

-Nick
 
Hey_bert_whtcha_doin_bert":2oc2uiq1 said:
When replacing them do I have to redo that silicon or whatever that is underneath them and whats an easy way to replace the zip ties with the board in place? Also do I have to bring the voltage up slowly, because if I do I'll have to wait to get money for a tech as I don't have a variac, which will suck.
Click to expand...

Nick, I've replaced the LCR Daly's on my Marshalls because of age (but only after many years of playing). Is oozing electrolytic fluid covered under warranty?
 
It's a little over a year and a half old. I don't know if an item like that would be under warranty or not because it is a "wear" item though, I don't know. I was hoping Mr. Duesentrieb could chime in as well and help me with replacing these and maybe tell me if they would do what I described, or should I look around more, because I know Peter is a very busy guy.
 
Replace the one where you can see the electolyt come out. Watch out for the polarity. Use a 22µF/500V cap.
 
I have replaced the bad caps and the amp sounds GREAT again. I still have a pop though, I'll try another tube in V-1 but as far as I know all of the ones I have are good ones.

For now though, at least she sounds great again, I don't go to my solo channel no more than three times anyway in my set list, most of my leads or playing is on channel 2 anyway. Time to find out how audible it will be live, I don't think it will be too bad.

Please help me get it fixed somebody :yes: .


Oh yeah, Peter, the caps I replaced the old ones with are Ruby Golds 22uf/500 volt, but are only 85 celsius caps instead of 105 celsius, they are Ruby Golds though, will this matter much, what are they older stock? A tech from one of the better amp shops around here gave them to me.
 
They caps are good though we don´t have 105 degress
inside the amp :)

Thanks for replacing :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top