Please educate me on Floyd rose series

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ClintN667

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Hey guys. I'm typically not a fan of trems but I'm getting a Rhoads that has the 1000 series on it. What's the difference in the different models and would this be something I should upgrade before the guitar is shipped from the shop?
 
ClintN667 said:
Hey guys. I'm typically not a fan of trems but I'm getting a Rhoads that has the 1000 series on it. What's the difference in the different models and would this be something I should upgrade before the guitar is shipped from the shop?
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They're perfectly fine, Korean made versions of the Original. They have their quirks, you just need to know how to set them up, give them some TLC, and all's fine. No need to upgrade. They're using them on their American Series guitars, (which is crazy), but they're serviceable...
 
I'm sure it will be fine. Suhr used to install them on the satin Moderns and I had no issues with mine.
 
They use the 1000 series on $4k Gibson Les Paul Access guitars I think. They always seem a little less refined than the German made stuff, as in its rougher to turn the fine tuners and stuff but they work fine and return to pitch like any other well setup Floyd.
 
IIRC:

Special = cheaper metals here and there
1000= korean made original with same specs/metal composition as original.
1500= korean made original w/$0.25 worth of stainless screws and push in arm.
Original= original
1984= actual original with more brass but higher wear.

< Gotoh 1996
 
The 1000 series that they put into the Charvel USAs back in 08/09 are fine. I've gigged hundreds of shows with them. Those were made in Korea. I've heard though, that the 1000s may not be made there anymore? Not sure, and they may be just fine.
 
NowYou'rePlayingWithPower said:
IIRC:

Special = cheaper metals here and there
1000= korean made original with same specs/metal composition as original.
1500= korean made original w/$0.25 worth of stainless screws and push in arm.
Original= original
1984= actual original with more brass but higher wear.

< Gotoh 1996
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I'd never take a Gotoh anything over an OFR.
 
In case anyone is interested:
Squid Music (ChubTone?, on Reverb and Ebay) has the OFR 1984 chrome versions for $229, with free shipping. The 1984 studs mount directly to the wood, but if your guitar doesn't mount directly like that, the tremolo and large brass block that it come with, still make it a great deal.
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/294023118284?hash=item447524bdcc:g:6skAAOSwx1dgMFOz&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAAwBoobt939qQF2IArP7OnuX7ZNW68HGPoaoi5pz20Bp1izkJYQYolkkUt+bAp5nX7o8Kp6liL1cYnARIo4WgULhQnR/7kO2PNDdpucdYlT5HRQ2WA/mKbDWpmTRfsnnT7wbFeOjmAV/pohAkHntvLMQZRM+dSR1V4ZVJai7GqXZ3V3VUufYtGOtkyXxR4B9zcyf1pqJhNizv18O8xiYLXtLmM/7nsD3JJwTwx97uZcjZR0WBScXUh2cDopIT20lIL2A==|tkp:Bk9SR-zz8KWhYw

The Gotoh Floyds are much nicer but a 1000 series will do the job.
If upgraded you gotta measure the stock block length [33 mm or other] w/a digital caliper.
You want to take measurements.
Racerxrated said:
I'd never take a Gotoh anything over an OFR.
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After a very early OFR & a Schaller Tremeister ive gone with a GOTOH for my 1986 Model #2 and couldn't be happier.
 
napalmdeath said:
I would, any day. My Ibanez Prestige has the best trem ever, which I believe Gotoh makes. Smooth as a baby's butt, and superior stability.
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The problem I have with any Gotoh, is the upper part of the plate that doesn't fully encircle the post. If you crank the shit outta your trem, like I used to do with my backup gigging Ibanez, the plate can pop off the post. Then you're fucked. Ask me how I know. Lol
That simple design 'flaw' is why I'd never buy a Gotoh. It's probably how they get away without patent infringement. They are well made and work great IF you don't do what I used to do. But I can do anything I want to an OFR. Stays perfectly in tune, and doesn't pop off the post.
 
Racerxrated said:
The problem I have with any Gotoh, is the upper part of the plate that doesn't fully encircle the post. If you crank the shit outta your trem, like I used to do with my backup gigging Ibanez, the plate can pop off the post. Then you're fucked. Ask me how I know. Lol
That simple design 'flaw' is why I'd never buy a Gotoh. It's probably how they get away without patent infringement. They are well made and work great IF you don't do what I used to do. But I can do anything I want to an OFR. Stays perfectly in tune, and doesn't pop off the post.
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Wow! I am pretty crazy with my gotoh, dime and vai all day and have never had this happen.
 
The Gotohs on my EBMMs have been fine. The oldest one, a '94 EVH, started to pit after a while, but I gigged it hard for a long time, lots of sweat on there. The Korean-made FRs are way inferior to the OFRs. The steel is simply softer and will develop grooves in the saddles where the strings clamp in. Maybe there's a cheap fix to that, but it made me swear them off. Buy once, cry once. The OFR with the German steel is worth what it costs.
 
demondestroyer said:
Wow! I am pretty crazy with my gotoh, dime and vai all day and have never had this happen.
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Haha yeah I used to hammer the shit outta both bridges on my 2 gigging guitars; a Schaller on my USA Hamer (the knife blade edge cracked eventually on that one lol) and the Gotoh popped off the upper post which meant the guitar was toast for the rest of the night.
Schallers have that knife blade insert vs molded steel edge on the plate like an OFR.
 
shar-vell Dan said:
Me neither. I play .011 to .050 DAddarios at standard pitch.
Maybe RaceX plays with super light strings.
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Back in the 90s, 10s. About 2007 I switched to 9s. After I stopped playing out in 2018, the Fender YJM hybrid 8-46. I had those 2 guitars back in the 90s and went to Charvels around 2007-8.
 
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