SLO guys - what power tubes?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mr. Willy
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Mr. Willy":g0pkwr77 said:
JB6464":g0pkwr77 said:
Mr. Willy":g0pkwr77 said:
Dale B":g0pkwr77 said:
I've run the stock Sovteks, =C= and Philips 7581As. Other than modifying the bias circuit to accept KT66's, the preamp makes more of a difference to me in that amp than any power tube change. I like the stock Sovteks, and they're cheap!

Probably will go with the Sovteks at this point. I can get a matched quad for around $60. I've read the wafer bottom are superior to the regular. Any truth to that or internet snake oil? :D

Go with the wafer bottoms since you don't have spring retainers on Soldano amps
I got a perfectly Matched Quad set of 5881 wafer bottoms off of a Ebay dealer "Yen Audio" for $52.50 plus $8.25 for shipping , and I couldn't of been any happier .

I went with the wafer bottoms from tube depot for$64.14, shipped.

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I appreciate it! :rock:


Great choice! I was going to chime in earlier but you seemed convinced NOT to use the stock Sovtek 5881/6L6 wgc's. Bias between 26-28 ma and you should be gettin some great tones. JJ12ax7S in V1and Sovtek LP's in the other slots and you'll have a woody for more than 4 hours (no need to call your doctor)! :rock:
 
JB6464":3git8ybh said:
Keep in mind that the SLO's B+ draws 500v+ volts from a 120v AC outlet and most newer production tubes are only rated at 450v max .
I went through a some tubes because of this reason and have done full circle back to the Sovtek 5881's and raised the bias .
They come biased cold from the factory around 22ma so if you bias them up to 30ma it will take it to about 60% max dissipation and warm the amp up a lot.
Just my findings , but make sure you find tubes that can handle the high 500+ voltages without failures.
There is a reason why Mike Soldano chose those tubes , they could withstand a nuclear war .
Also you won't hear much of a difference between the power tubes unless you drive the amp half way up or more.
With Soldano amps it's all about the preamp section , them what speakers/cabinet you use with the amp to make the most tonal change.

Keeping in mind that an energy potential is not drawn, but rather is produced across a resistance. Many current 6L6GC valves are rated at 500v max on the plate. That being said, the plate voltage is not what tends to kill tubes, it's exceeding the screen voltage that causes problems. The peavey 5150 also runs right around 500vdc on the plates.
 
stock

I don't have the patience to mess around with tubes. You'll get a far more drastic tonal change with different speakers than tubes.
 
Mr. Willy":3ase5y7u said:
C1-ocaster":3ase5y7u said:
Mr. Willy":3ase5y7u said:
I need to retube the power section of my SLO. I know Soldano recommends Sovtek 5881's. I'd like to go with something else. Has anyone tried the Tung-Sol reissues? http://www.dougstubes.com/tung-sol-5881.html They are lower powered than other 6L6/5881 offerings. Would this not be good for the SLO? Also interested in these new Mullard 6L6GC's. They look very sturdy. http://www.dougstubes.com/power-tubes/m ... 6l6gc.html
I've used these TAD 6L6's in my Bassman, and they sounded really good. http://www.dougstubes.com/tad-6l6gc-str.html
Not interested in KT66's right now. What do my SLO guys recommend and why? If I have to describe the tone/feel I'm looking for, it would be musical, harmonically complex, and rich. The stock Sovteks seem lacking in those departments. Thanks for any recommendations!

SED Winged-C.
They are not NOS as production of these tubes has stopped.

I just checked on ebay and a matched quad can be had for between $225 to $280 shipped.
I bought a pair last summer for $90 matched.
The prices have gone up since then as it's all NOS now.

These are pricey tubes but I love their tone. It's harmonically rich, smooth, and warm.
Nothing brittle or biting about these tubes.

I'm using the pair in my Egnater Vengeance head. It's a quad tube 120 watt head, but it has a 60 watt mode that uses the 2 outside tubes, and each pair has it's own external bias adjustment. The other pair are the stock Ruby 6L6's.
The C's are much nicer than the Ruby's and better than the JJ's that I tried as well.

I don't know the whole history, but has SED changed ownership in the last few years? I seem to recall talk surrounding them and mostly their EL34's, something along the lines of them not producing the EL34's anymore...something like that, anyway. I see that dougstubes aren't carrying the SED 6L6's because of bad test results. I'm assuming the tubes you're referring to are the ones produced before the ownership change. Regardless, $225-$280 is way more than I wanna spend. Thanks for the info though!

Yes, there some confusion going on around what is and what isn't a Winged C.
The tubes that are labeled with the =C= are the real deal.
Dougstubes does make that claim, but I don't know why.
Real C's are out there and they are excellent.
Nearly 100% of users have nothing but positives about these tubes, and everyone I've read can hear a difference.

I can't speak about the SLO and whether or not it's tone will be greatly affected by the C's.
All I can speak to is that I've run these in over 5 high pre gain amps and in every one there has been a noticeably positive change even at low volume levels.

The one place where I got some C's still has them at $105 matched pair including shipping. A quad would be double that of course.
It's one of those tubes that you either think is worth or you don't, pretty much like most things. :)

I've got a PRS SE30 head coming soon and I'm picking up another pair of C's.
Luckily that amp only needs a pair so paying double for the C's over another good pair is a price I'm wiling to pay given my positive experience with them.

There are plenty of other really good power tubes out there that don't cost this much.
Hope you find what you like. :)
 
Everything I've tried in my SM100R other then the Sovtek 5881s has died a fast death.

You need tubes that are OK with 500v on the plates, and there aren't many other options.
 
K I'm gonna say it again. Plate voltage alone is not what kills tubes. It's screen voltage. Plates will destruct if the bias is too hot, but a screen grid is more delicate and if it sees too much voltage it will over dissipate and destruct due to the fact that it begins robbing current from the more robust plate.
 
Just put a matched quad of wafer bottoms in my SLO. Biased it at 28, and it sounds even better than before. Love this amp.. :rock:
 
Racerxrated":1lswnana said:
Just put a matched quad of wafer bottoms in my SLO. Biased it at 28, and it sounds even better than before. Love this amp.. :rock:

Can't wait for mine to arrive. I'm looking forward to putting some fresh tubes in my SLO and playing with the bias. She sounds good right now, but she's gonna scream with a little adjustment.
 
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