JackBootedThug
MURDERATOR
I'd like to check your voltage big boy!!!I learn so much shit from posts like this!
Now I have to dive down onto this and try it with my Marshalls.
I'd like to check your voltage big boy!!!I learn so much shit from posts like this!
Now I have to dive down onto this and try it with my Marshalls.
Same here. I strive to get 113 volts. It fluctuates at time to 112-114. Anything more and I notice it. Of course there are times I will bring the voltage up for some tighter sounds. There have been some low wall voltage times where I’m able to get it down to 100v.When playing master volume high gain amps I start noticing a difference when the voltage drifts +/- 3 V. Any less and I don't notice. I'm thinking with a cranked plexi type of amp smaller voltage swings of 1 or 2 V would be more noticeable.
Redplating sounds good.If you’re using a Bogner XTC and have the class A/AB switch, if you’re anything over 115V into the amp you’ll redplate the EL34s in class A. The high B+ doesn’t give much wiggle room to variances of wall voltage into the amp.
God this amp feels amazing. Wait why are my lights flickeringRedplating sounds good.
I have a set of tubes for my high cathode bias amp that red plate just for taking passes when recording. The colder set is for gigs/rehearsals. Nothing blooms like tubes that are dying.God this amp feels amazing. Wait why are my lights flickering
How does the brown box differ from a Variac (which seems much lower priced)Glad I have a brown box to keep things under control. I have my main amp and rack with a Strategy 400 plugged in. Bringing it down to 113 really changes the amps tone and feel plus keep is running in specs to the 117-120 they were designed for.
View attachment 135895
View attachment 135904
Both can accomplish the same thing but a variac can turn voltage up or down, will offer finer control over the specific voltage, but will also be larger and heavier. You’ll also need a multimeter to set the voltage if it doesn’t have an (accurate) digital display.How does the brown box differ from a Variac (which seems much lower priced)
That doesn't sound like it's working correctly. It isn't regulating the voltage. Mine always reads 119.2vdc but my wall voltage spans 122vac-126vac.I need to break down and check out one of those brown boxes or a variac. I have a Furman Voltage regular, which has been helpful, but they’re flawed too. Depending on the incoming voltage and what tap the Furman utilizes, it can actually increase the voltage. Just yesterday it was reading 123, but the Furman was actually putting out 125.
That's how it functions. It's supposed to provide a constant 120v +/- 5v. It will shift to the tap that gets closest based on the incoming voltage. Oddly, that sometimes results in a slightly higher voltage. I've heard of others experiencing the same thing as well. I used to have the breakdown of what the incoming voltage ranges are for each tap and the voltage each tap would provide. All I could find in the online manual is an example that says incoming voltage of 92v would result in 110v, so beyond a certain range up or down it can't get within +/-5v of 120v either. That's totally understandable, though. Overall, it's probably not that much of an issue with modern amps. With older amps where 120v may already be borderline, it could be problematic.That doesn't sound like it's working correctly. It isn't regulating the voltage. Mine always reads 119.2vdc but my wall voltage spans 122vac-126vac.
My house current is atrocious.House current is nasty, noisy, dirty stuff. Variac to control the front, Rock Crusher to control the back. It is surprising it is so simple.
OK, mine is a really constant 119.2vac (I'm constantly futzing with amps and always measure the AC in) so it seemed off. Still seems off frankly but if you say that's the way that model works I believe you.That's how it functions. It's supposed to provide a constant 120v +/- 5v. It will shift to the tap that gets closest based on the incoming voltage. Oddly, that sometimes results in a slightly higher voltage. I've heard of others experiencing the same thing as well. I used to have the breakdown of what the incoming voltage ranges are for each tap and the voltage each tap would provide. All I could find in the online manual is an example that says incoming voltage of 92v would result in 110v, so beyond a certain range up or down it can't get within +/-5v of 120v either. That's totally understandable, though. Overall, it's probably not that much of an issue with modern amps. With older amps where 120v may already be borderline, it could be problematic.