S
subzero
Member
Yes you can and that's what i do.I don't play lound that much anymore.The doctor said no problem.I love it!!!Good luck Steve 
B
Batman
New member
subzero":36k2wncb said:Yes you can and that's what i do.I don't play lound that much anymore.The doctor said no problem.I love it!!!Good luck Steve
Great! Thanks for the answer. I look forward to trying this, and driving the amp harder at the same volume. I wanted to buy a 50W head for this very reason, but I chickened out in the end. What if it would have been too low in volume?
What if I wouldn't always be the winner when the volume tweaking game starts at rehearsals??
Dread the thought
reussen
New member
Batman":1ji2mjwd said:Great! Thanks for the answer. I look forward to trying this, and driving the amp harder at the same volume. I wanted to buy a 50W head for this very reason, but I chickened out in the end. What if it would have been too low in volume?
What if I wouldn't always be the winner when the volume tweaking game starts at rehearsals??
Dread the thought
Hey man, audible difference in volume between a 100w and a 50w is negligable. The difference is more readily found in break-up (if you're after the power tube saturation) and headroom. I personally found the 100w better sounding, but that's a matter of taste. And about power-tube saturation: you will only achieve that in FULL effect at volumes that are not suitable for rehearsal or gigging (unless you are playing HUGE arenas or outdoor festivals
). Or if you have a serious hearing problem.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Batman,
I have found that just adding another cab to a 50 watt head will give me more volume, spread the amp's output over a wider listening area, and allow me to still work the power tubes hard.
Philbag,
I have spoken with Peter and yes, getting power tube saturation is achieved by using the master volume control above a given level on each channel of the Schmidt.
Peter cautioned me that using the higher powered output tubes, even on the Schmidt, will result in loud levels. He recomended that I try the alternate 6V6 power tubes, which will reduce the amp's output to 15 watts, and make using the power tube saturation feature more "friendly" in environments where louder volume levels are not appreciated by the club owner, or the audience.
I have found that just adding another cab to a 50 watt head will give me more volume, spread the amp's output over a wider listening area, and allow me to still work the power tubes hard.
Philbag,
I have spoken with Peter and yes, getting power tube saturation is achieved by using the master volume control above a given level on each channel of the Schmidt.
Peter cautioned me that using the higher powered output tubes, even on the Schmidt, will result in loud levels. He recomended that I try the alternate 6V6 power tubes, which will reduce the amp's output to 15 watts, and make using the power tube saturation feature more "friendly" in environments where louder volume levels are not appreciated by the club owner, or the audience.
B
Batman
New member
Guys, in particular C-4, did you ever try this:
GROOVE TUBES SUBSTI-TUBE 928PR
I know what you said about no power tube saturation in the Einie, but is it worth trying out for full power at lower volumes?
CHeers guys
GROOVE TUBES SUBSTI-TUBE 928PR
I know what you said about no power tube saturation in the Einie, but is it worth trying out for full power at lower volumes?
CHeers guys
King Crimson
Banned
Active member
"Re: What tubes sound best with Einstein? Opinions please."
Oh, and you might want to become au fait with the tubes the Sir Peter D. has chosen to be the bomb.
The tubes that sound good to your ears.nivek":3eu7544y said:
Oh, and you might want to become au fait with the tubes the Sir Peter D. has chosen to be the bomb.
B
blackslide
New member
Thanks for the warm welcome and good info nivek! I sure am grateful, I can play with the amp tomorrow 
I noticed the suggested bias values from the tech corner, really nice for Diezel to put them there. The 6550 and KT-88 use roughly the same bias value, I guess the 6550 is just a modernized version of the KT-88, but having the manufacturers spec sheet and then using the 75% from max current as a guideline should be the best way to bias it, then again I rarely go past 9'o clock on my amp so I doubt 1mA there or here will make an audible difference...
I'm going for the 2x sovtek KT-88 2x Sovtek EL-34 set but I'll see how it runs in 50W first, if it's good, what I think it will be, I'll use that setup for a few months. The winged C 6550's in the einstein do sound awesome, so apart from the premature failure of one, I think I can almost trust them as it might have been the tube retainer that caused the tube to get air in it and burn the filament.
Seems like they don't make tubes like they used to... This gets me to another question: Are groove tubes really any better, or is the price higher just because it says "Groove Tubes California" on the side? I mean if I invest ~300USD instead of about 200USD for a quartet of TAD's 6550's, or around 100USD for just some random 6550's or KT-88's off the shelf, will the GT's sound 3 times better or is it really marginal? I'm using the amp at home, through a 2x12" Celestion V30 cab, and I intend to change the tubes every year or every other year. I don't have a thick wallet, I'm still paying for the amp.
Oh, and better late than never, Merry Christmas! And a happier new year
Regards,
Kristjan
I noticed the suggested bias values from the tech corner, really nice for Diezel to put them there. The 6550 and KT-88 use roughly the same bias value, I guess the 6550 is just a modernized version of the KT-88, but having the manufacturers spec sheet and then using the 75% from max current as a guideline should be the best way to bias it, then again I rarely go past 9'o clock on my amp so I doubt 1mA there or here will make an audible difference...
I'm going for the 2x sovtek KT-88 2x Sovtek EL-34 set but I'll see how it runs in 50W first, if it's good, what I think it will be, I'll use that setup for a few months. The winged C 6550's in the einstein do sound awesome, so apart from the premature failure of one, I think I can almost trust them as it might have been the tube retainer that caused the tube to get air in it and burn the filament.
Seems like they don't make tubes like they used to... This gets me to another question: Are groove tubes really any better, or is the price higher just because it says "Groove Tubes California" on the side? I mean if I invest ~300USD instead of about 200USD for a quartet of TAD's 6550's, or around 100USD for just some random 6550's or KT-88's off the shelf, will the GT's sound 3 times better or is it really marginal? I'm using the amp at home, through a 2x12" Celestion V30 cab, and I intend to change the tubes every year or every other year. I don't have a thick wallet, I'm still paying for the amp.
Oh, and better late than never, Merry Christmas! And a happier new year
Regards,
Kristjan
B
blackslide
New member
So I went and just added a pair of Electro Harmonics EL34's alongside the old (now five years) 6550's. Sounds just right to my ear.
I've only had to change the V1 because it went microphonic. I finally got some Money and bought a Groove Tubes 12AT7. Sounds great.
Everything sounds great, so I won't swap any more tubes until something breaks...
I've only had to change the V1 because it went microphonic. I finally got some Money and bought a Groove Tubes 12AT7. Sounds great.
Everything sounds great, so I won't swap any more tubes until something breaks...