NAD: Marshall 2525H Mini Jubilee

napalmdeath

napalmdeath

Well-known member
Yes, I owned one before, really didn't like it. But, to be fair, I had a Splawn and JSX at the time, and really didn't spend much time with it, or focus on the interactive knobs. It's really different, for sure.

I can honestly say, after doing some reading, and on paper, I decided to try again, and it's night and day. This little SOB is LOUD! I really learned to dial it in, I dont use, (or like) the rhythm clipping, and just use my own boost. Out of my Wylde OD, CM-2, OCD, and GT-OD, the GT-OD matches very well! I can get pretty mean, has nice thump, and really sings. What a great little beast of an amp! I'm just using it like a JCM800, basically, don't really use it for cleans. For one core, crushing Marshall tone, it simply kills. My only regret, is that I didn't get the big boy 2555X, (but really didn't find a good deal one one either).

For those who I've read saying its harsh, you're doing something wrong! This is the warmest sounding amp I've owned in some time. And, after putting a Tungsol in V1, an NOS GE in V2, and a JJ in V3, it's clear as a bell. Big and warm, but the clarity is exceptional. I'm glad I tried it again, I REALLY dig it! Through my Randall V30/G12T-75 loaded 4x12, it brings the brutz! It's not a saturated tone, its a nice brute, muscular Marshall, in a small package.
 
Congrats! Jubes are fantastic amps and with 1 or even double boosted, you can go from classic to heavy pretty easily. They are the amp that the first V30, the Marshall Vintage, was designed for and the two together are fantastic....
 
Racerxrated":2yvth49y said:
Congrats! Jubes are fantastic amps and with 1 or even double boosted, you can go from classic to heavy pretty easily. They are the amp that the first V30, the Marshall Vintage, was designed for and the two together are fantastic....
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm going to try my Spark Boost with the GT-OD. It worked really well with my DSL, boosting OD1/Green Crunch.

This amp is really weird to dial in. I actually run the bass dimed, and theres no mud. Between 8-10, there's alot of difference. I run the Output really high, and the Lead volume to taste. For lower volume, you have to lower the Output volume a bit, and goose the Lead. The Output Volume is where the beef is. It's very much like a master volume, and the lead being the channel volume. Essentially, that's what's going on just alot more sensitive to one another. Very interesting EQ on this thing.
 
let me know how the spark boost works out... I have the 2555SL and was considering the spark boost. congrats on your NAD.. they are great amps
 
I just had my first gig with the 2525h and a V30 1x12. I was really happy with it. I boosted with a tumnus deluxe and a mini tube screamer. By the end of the night I just used the tube screamer as a clean boost. I will have to try the gt-od for sure.
 
napalmdeath":36je1vf4 said:
Racerxrated":36je1vf4 said:
Congrats! Jubes are fantastic amps and with 1 or even double boosted, you can go from classic to heavy pretty easily. They are the amp that the first V30, the Marshall Vintage, was designed for and the two together are fantastic....
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm going to try my Spark Boost with the GT-OD. It worked really well with my DSL, boosting OD1/Green Crunch.

This amp is really weird to dial in. I actually run the bass dimed, and theres no mud. Between 8-10, there's alot of difference. I run the Output really high, and the Lead volume to taste. For lower volume, you have to lower the Output volume a bit, and goose the Lead. The Output Volume is where the beef is. It's very much like a master volume, and the lead being the channel volume. Essentially, that's what's going on just alot more sensitive to one another. Very interesting EQ on this thing.
Click to expand...
Jubilee EQ is the most active EQ of any Marshall, period. Huge range with each knob. Unlike most vintage Marshalls, which have subtle EQs. I always dimed the output master, lead as overall master. At a gig I'd have both masters around 6 to balance the clean. The pull boost is an answer to the famous Jose master boosts of the day in 87, you'll notice the volume drops slightly when the LEDs are engaged. But to use it as a true 2 channel you'll have to leave the clip off, to keep the clean clean.
 
Racerxrated":6qncka6t said:
napalmdeath":6qncka6t said:
Racerxrated":6qncka6t said:
Congrats! Jubes are fantastic amps and with 1 or even double boosted, you can go from classic to heavy pretty easily. They are the amp that the first V30, the Marshall Vintage, was designed for and the two together are fantastic....
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm going to try my Spark Boost with the GT-OD. It worked really well with my DSL, boosting OD1/Green Crunch.

This amp is really weird to dial in. I actually run the bass dimed, and theres no mud. Between 8-10, there's alot of difference. I run the Output really high, and the Lead volume to taste. For lower volume, you have to lower the Output volume a bit, and goose the Lead. The Output Volume is where the beef is. It's very much like a master volume, and the lead being the channel volume. Essentially, that's what's going on just alot more sensitive to one another. Very interesting EQ on this thing.
Click to expand...
Jubilee EQ is the most active EQ of any Marshall, period. Huge range with each knob. Unlike most vintage Marshalls, which have subtle EQs. I always dimed the output master, lead as overall master. At a gig I'd have both masters around 6 to balance the clean. The pull boost is an answer to the famous Jose master boosts of the day in 87, you'll notice the volume drops slightly when the LEDs are engaged. But to use it as a true 2 channel you'll have to leave the clip off, to keep the clean clean.
Click to expand...

I used to run the output master on 8 and use the lead master as overall volume like you.. lately, Ive been leaving the output master on 6ish and the lead master on 10... not set on which I like better right now.
 
napalmdeath":1kv4eedq said:
Racerxrated":1kv4eedq said:
Congrats! Jubes are fantastic amps and with 1 or even double boosted, you can go from classic to heavy pretty easily. They are the amp that the first V30, the Marshall Vintage, was designed for and the two together are fantastic....
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm going to try my Spark Boost with the GT-OD. It worked really well with my DSL, boosting OD1/Green Crunch.

This amp is really weird to dial in. I actually run the bass dimed, and theres no mud. Between 8-10, there's alot of difference. I run the Output really high, and the Lead volume to taste. For lower volume, you have to lower the Output volume a bit, and goose the Lead. The Output Volume is where the beef is. It's very much like a master volume, and the lead being the channel volume. Essentially, that's what's going on just alot more sensitive to one another. Very interesting EQ on this thing.
Click to expand...

Congrats on the new amp. I run the Output master on my 50W 2553 around 6 and use the Lead master to control the volume. The Output master is later than the Lead master and so it does had fullness and beef like you said.

I posted this in another forum when the typical diode issue was coming up, this was looking at the schematic on the larger jubilees, but I bet the Mini has got the same thing going on:


Looking at the schematic more in detail with a friend. Here is what we found. If you want to be spared the technical details, skip this post.

In the Clean the signal goes from V1A into V2A and on.
The schematic is actually showing the channel switching relay in lead mode. In Lead you add in V1B then go through the clipping diodes, lead master, and then into V2A. There is a little signal that goes through R6, which is why the rhythm clip will still affect both channels. The input gain VR1 (right after V1A) is driving V1B harder into clipping, which then mixes with the diode clipping.

So some high level take aways:

- The lead channel adds another tube stage and the clipping diodes and the gain is controlled by the input gain knob which pushes that additional tube stage (V1B)
- If you turn up the lead master you will drive V2A stage harder in the preamp. If you turn up the output master, you drive the phase inverter harder. I prefer running the output master higher
- The clean goes through through 3 tube gain stages V1A, V2A, and V3A before the phase inverter. There are no diodes in the signal path for the clean.
 
blackba":uwddq6cz said:
napalmdeath":uwddq6cz said:
Racerxrated":uwddq6cz said:
Congrats! Jubes are fantastic amps and with 1 or even double boosted, you can go from classic to heavy pretty easily. They are the amp that the first V30, the Marshall Vintage, was designed for and the two together are fantastic....
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm going to try my Spark Boost with the GT-OD. It worked really well with my DSL, boosting OD1/Green Crunch.

This amp is really weird to dial in. I actually run the bass dimed, and theres no mud. Between 8-10, there's alot of difference. I run the Output really high, and the Lead volume to taste. For lower volume, you have to lower the Output volume a bit, and goose the Lead. The Output Volume is where the beef is. It's very much like a master volume, and the lead being the channel volume. Essentially, that's what's going on just alot more sensitive to one another. Very interesting EQ on this thing.
Click to expand...

Congrats on the new amp. I run the Output master on my 50W 2553 around 6 and use the Lead master to control the volume. The Output master is later than the Lead master and so it does had fullness and beef like you said.

I posted this in another forum when the typical diode issue was coming up, this was looking at the schematic on the larger jubilees, but I bet the Mini has got the same thing going on:


Looking at the schematic more in detail with a friend. Here is what we found. If you want to be spared the technical details, skip this post.

In the Clean the signal goes from V1A into V2A and on.
The schematic is actually showing the channel switching relay in lead mode. In Lead you add in V1B then go through the clipping diodes, lead master, and then into V2A. There is a little signal that goes through R6, which is why the rhythm clip will still affect both channels. The input gain VR1 (right after V1A) is driving V1B harder into clipping, which then mixes with the diode clipping.

So some high level take aways:

- The lead channel adds another tube stage and the clipping diodes and the gain is controlled by the input gain knob which pushes that additional tube stage (V1B)
- If you turn up the lead master you will drive V2A stage harder in the preamp. If you turn up the output master, you drive the phase inverter harder. I prefer running the output master higher
- The clean goes through through 3 tube gain stages V1A, V2A, and V3A before the phase inverter. There are no diodes in the signal path for the clean.
Click to expand...

I don't mess with the diode clipping. And, Output master definitely brings the beef!

Got some Mullard RI CV4004's today. Man, those are some warm, thick sounding preamp tubes! I had to dial the bass back a touch!
 
Racerxrated":2rxf664n said:
^^Those are nice tubes, I have one in my Wizard. I've always said, that Jubilee EQ can get almost Mesa-like low end....
Click to expand...

I only put one in V2, and it was like the bass went from 10-12! I left the Tungsol in V1, but may switch them around. I'm not sure if V3 is a phase inverter, I might try a Sovtek LPS in there.

I did try JJ KT77's, but the difference was questionable. I was told by my buddy Eddie at Eurotubes that due to the cathode bias, even a hotter pair wouldn't make but subtle change in getting it in range. One thing I DON'T like is the inability to bias it. From the factory, the bias is under 60% dissipation, relative to the mA vs. plate voltage. I found this to be the case my first go around. You'd need an off-the-charts hot pair of tubes to even gain another 5%.

I would be down for a bias mod and beefier transformers, (room permitting).
 
I love this head!!! Through my 412 loaded with GB's on top and V30'2 on the bottom, it kills!!! I found a long plate Sovtek in V3 was the ticket.
 
Junk Yard Dog":2ic9zcx1 said:
How does it do at lower volume playing--for, say, apartments?
Click to expand...

It's loud. And needs to be, to bring the goods. But, I tamed mine with a volume pedal in the loop, and cranked it a bit.
 
napalmdeath":1g029nib said:
Junk Yard Dog":1g029nib said:
How does it do at lower volume playing--for, say, apartments?
Click to expand...

It's loud. And needs to be, to bring the goods. But, I tamed mine with a volume pedal in the loop, and cranked it a bit.
Click to expand...
My experience with the reissue is the big boy, 2555x. But, I thought it had a fantastic taper for low volume playing. Like most good stock Marshalls it needs a boost anyway, which makes it an ideal low volume amp even at 100w. Plus, unlike the 2525 it can be biased, and you can use any 2 pairs of different octal tubes at any given time. Really cool feature. I ran 2 KT88s with 2 KT90s...HUGE low end and EL34 mids.
 
I think this amp performs really well at low volumes. It's always going to sound better loud but I use it at all hours without waking anyone. I have been using it lately with 2 v30s and 2 G12h30s and it sounds fantastic. I really like it with a mesa thiele cab as well.
 
I find my 50Watt 2553 among the most difficult of my amps to tame at home volumes. Once you hear it cooking, just hard to go back to playing at lower volumes. For me the output master sounds best at 6 or above, this means that the lead master must be really low and gets a bit touchy, same with the clean volume knob that mine is modded with. If you turn down the output master, than its easier to control at lower volumes, but sounds much more buzzy.

Recently I have been running mine into a Suhr RLIR and either into my PA or headphones. Like this I am finding I am much better able to tame the beast.
 
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