Heritage Softail":13qiyjmw said:
FourT6and2":13qiyjmw said:
Heritage Softail":13qiyjmw said:
FourT6and2":13qiyjmw said:
50MkII":13qiyjmw said:
Looking at the amp I seem to prefer the drive switch to the far right on the production CCV. Mark does like the 65's with the CCV and you should try the G12H30 Anniv speakers with that amp too. I would stay clear of V30's with that amp.
Yeah, I didn't like it with V30s. Very harsh. I think I've found some settings I like. And that's with my 65s. Sounds pretty good now. It's still a smooth amp. But that trick with the FX loop really helped.
If ya don't mind, how does it compare to your Chup on good old hair metal Dokken, Ratt, Megadeth?
The Chup and Yeti seem like two killer amps. A guy could get both for less $.
Unless the CCV does it all and then some.
No idea. I've never listened to a Dokken, Ratt, or Megadeth song in my life.
I grew up with 90's music. And the kind of stuff I play is like a mix of Tool and Muse.
Combine Muse and Tool.
Mule
I just had to, it was right there
If you hit it half as big as either of those to you would have it made.
EXPcustom":13qiyjmw said:
FourT6and2":13qiyjmw said:
EXPcustom":13qiyjmw said:
garey77":13qiyjmw said:
I find it weird, and I'm sure it's just me, but my old CCV had screws through the name plate. Yours does not. Is this one of the very first few that came out before the actual first run?
Parts like the chassis and faceplates were much thicker and robust on the Chris Schmidt era CCVs. To me they sound totally different, I prefer the Schmidt-era sound wise but a lot of them varied in build quality/sound. The Barrang/King era CCVs just did not sound the same to me or as angry as the original CCVs. I know a few members here preferred the King/Barrang era CCVs or they thought they sounded the same so I am not knocking them just pointing out what I personally noticed.
This is a Barrang production model.
Yeah I know, its always easy to tell them apart from the pre-pro's visually because they did the row of knobs too low and it partially obstructed the writing.
Yeah... the build quality on this thing is pretty bad. I can see why they switched to Metro. Good thing, too. This thing has some really bad lead dress, soldering, and zero attention to detail (like the knob issue you mentioned). There was a zip tie holding some wires on the board and the person who built it accidentally caught the body of a cap with the zip tie and almost bent it right off the board. I saw it when I went to bias the amp. Had to cut the zip tie, replace it, and fix the cap. Should never have left the shop that way. And there are leads that don't even go through the eyelets on the pots. They're just laid on top and held in place with gobs of solder instead of done properly. The layout is a pain in the ass, too. You have to take the entire chassis out of the head shell to get to the V1 and V2 preamp tubes. Good thing it sounds halfway decent...